I've been doing various work to this car such as this thread (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...c-job-diy.html) and, more recently, the VANOs solenoids. For a long time this '08 justa has had a recurring P0013 code. Each time I've worked on any portion of this, the code would be good for a couple of days and then return. I finally realized that the wire connector on the exhaust VANOs is actually broken... but it's not really obvious. What happened is that the tip (about 4 or 5 mm) of the plastic connector housing has broken off. This allows the actual metal connectors to slide deeper into the housing than they are supposed to, allowing them to loose the connection to the VANOs. The connector APPEARS to be installed, but the wires inside are not getting the job done.
The wires can be readily slid back and forth in the connector as they are no longer anchored. They ARE captive and won't slide all the way out. Once I realized this I put red and black marks on the wires to show if they are positioned correctly. I then installed it, pushed the wires fully in and secured them with a ty-wrap arrangement that will do until I get the new connector shell. Now that they are in place, the best part: P0013 is GONE and the driveability issues that have plagued this car for way too long are HISTORY! The car suddenly drives the way it should, like it is new again. We have been annoyed by surging, poor performance, 'dancing MINI' at every red light and now, Wow! It just purrs. I can't describe adequately how much difference this makes in the way that the car runs. I am very very happy. This could happen to any connector, of course. The "tell" to look for is gently pull/push the wires to see if they will slide within the housing. They should not be able to move.

The next question is: does anyone have the part numbers for the connector components?

 

Looks like this is it Part # 12527542849

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/12527542849/





Then if you need the pins / wire x 2 12527555721

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/12527555721/

Thanks

 

Thanks for that. I should be able to retain the contacts. I'll order and see how it works out.

 

Good catch! Looks like the connector got bumped at some point causing the damage internally. Once again a wonderful car let down by a 5 dollar part and perhaps some ham fisted mechanic work at some point along the way.

 

2007 MINI Cooper Base Hatchback N12 "Sport Button"

I've been dealing with a P0015 that migrated over to a P0012 code after I switched both the sensors and the solenoids. To determine if it was the sensor or the solenoid that migrated I switched the sensors and the code stayed P0012, which led me to believe it's a solenoid problem. To double check I switched the solenoids but cracked the wiring harness for the Front/Exhaust solenoid.

Went to the dealer to get a new harness $5.00. He offered the metal fasteners but he only had one left. Since they were in perfect condition I didn't bother taking just the one. Broke a part the old/broken plastic harness to keep the wires and metal fasteners in good condition and carefully pulled out the wires/metal fasteners through the original rubber harness. Double checked which wires should be on which sides with the Rear/Intake solenoid harness and connected.

There is some play with the wires/metal fasteners being able to be pushed in and out. I've pushed them in firmly to get the metal fasteners just past the small opening. And, now I'm getting P0013 along with P0012. So, the fault didn't move with the supposedly bad solenoid. And, I'm now dealing with slight surging at start up and when the accelerator is pressed down in neutral of course.

Otherwise the car is running great. It was running fine before and after all this. I wonder if the metal fasteners have been updated in size alone with the plastic wiring harness?

I'm buying and installing the updated solenoids this week. And, yes I verified with the dealer that the solenoids have been updated.

 

Did the updated solenoids fix the problem?? I am having the same issue and have changed both and checked wiring. Just driving with check engine light on.

 

mc2008,

The codes are all gone and the car is running obviously better with the new solenoids.

Also, I did not put the new solenoid harness on properly which was causing the wires/metal fasteners to slide back and forth as opposed to staying in place. So, I took the harness off and put it on properly and it's all good now. You've got to put the wires/metal fasteners all the way in to the obvious degree, then push in the bottom housing until you hear a click which of course locks the wires/metal fasteners into place.

All and all,
Replaced both Solenoids with updated part to fix this issue.

Keep in mind I'm the original owner of a 2007 Mini Cooper hardtop manual trans and sport button with 140,000 miles that's kept this car up in very respectable condition. I got a lot of people telling me, "You're car is done. Probably needs a valve job and the VANOS is probably going as well." And, I don't think they were wrong to tell me that because you see those horror stories on here and other places all the time. But, I've taken care of my car in an environment that isn't very harsh so I felt it couldn't have been a big deal. And, it wasn't.

It is a Bimmer so I'm anticipating some big repair soon but the car is still running great. All the best to you guys.

 

Great!! Thanks for the info. Do you know where I should get updated Solenoids?? I'm pretty new at this with my 2008 Clubman.
Thanks again.
Johnny

 

mc2008,

I got mine through PartsGeek.com

I'd call the dealer to get the appropriate part number and cross reference it across the site for the right ones. Customer service at Parts Geek on through online chatting was helpful too. Link below. All the best.

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20..._solenoid.html