Over the last couple months I have been searching for a proper handsfree kit to incorporate into my 2004 MINI Cooper S. I have tried the Scosche BTAXS plugged into the line-in and it streamed music really well but the POS didn’t hold a charge to save it’s life. I have been looking at the Parrot series of kits but have never been impressed with the integration of microphone technology in the system (people are always complaining about not being able to hear your voice in a MINI) and so I have just been waiting for something better to come along.

Enter the KlaT 7 from DriveNTalk (Enustech) out of South Korea.

The KlaT 7 is very similar to the MKi series (installed type) Parrot kits with a control box, wire harness, wireless remote, and dual microphone module with echo cancellation. There wasn’t a lot out there about the KlaT 7 when I started looking at it. There was a brief write up after CES 2010 but not much following. After a little research I found that Enustech is not a mom and pop business but a well establish South Korean electronics company and has a large following in Asia. I am not going to go into all the technical details of the KlaT 7 kit but you can look it up at the following web link.



I am extremely pleased with how this kit works, the voice navigation controls for the kit are excellent, integration with my iPhone 4 is flawless, and it’s ability to stream music via Bluetooth is superb. All of this is controlled by the small, circular, remote control which is included in the KlaT 7 handsfree kit.

After purchasing the kit from an online retailer I contacted Mike at www.NewMiniStuff.com in Merseyside, England and placed my order for a wire harness to connect the KlaT 7 to my OEM HK stereo system. The connectors on the KlaT 7 are identical to the Parrot MKi series ISO connectors and so I order that specific harness using the NewMiniStuff online ordering website. The wire harness and shipping wasn’t cheap ($50 US) but it was only a dollar or two more than generic ones available in the USA and this one was made specific to my factory HK system. After nine days it arrived at my house on the west coast of the United States which isn’t bad considering the entire central and eastern region of the United States was slammed by what the news media named Winter Storm 2011.

Well, it is now time to get on with the DIY install and my review for the DriveNTalk KlaT 7, installed type, handsfree kit.

When the kit arrives it comes in a relatively small, red box, with its contents neatly packaged inside.



The remote and control box are packaged inside on the top layer.


m/"]http://www.dial2do.com/[/URL]

Underneath the remote and controller box you will find the User’s Manual and the Dial2Do 90 day free trial brochure. I haven’t activated the Dial2Do 90-day trial yet for myself but here is a web link to learn more about it. http://www.dial2do.com/


r over the final items in the box

Once the User’s Manual and Dial2Do paperwork is out of the way you can now see the cover over the final items in the box



Here are the complete contents of the DriveNTalk KlaT 7 box.



Once everything is out of their baggies you will notice; one remote unit, one black controller box, one wire harness, one dual microphone unit with 10 foot cable, one black remote unit mounting keeper with two adhesive pads on a clear plastic carrier, one battery for the remote unit, one black rectangular microphone mount with corresponding (red) rectangular adhesive pad for mounting, one black sun visor microphone bracket, and one 6 foot usb interface cable with proprietary connector for updating the firmware in the control box through the microphone module.



Now, for a closer look at each of the parts to familiarize yourself with them

First, we have the 24 pin ISO connector on one end of the wire harness, this connects to the control box or brain box of the KlaT 7 kit. (Exactly the same as the one used on the MKi series Parrot kits)



Second, the right and left line-out connectors for connecting the unit to an aftermarket amplifier or stereo head unit. YOU WILL NOT NEED THIS TO CONNECT TO A MINI OEM STEREO IF YOU USE A KIT LIKE NewMiniStufff’s



Third, you are looking at the standard ISO connectors (same as the MKi series Parrot kits) which I used in conjunction with the wire harness from NewMiniStuff to connect the KlaT 7 to my OEM HK stereo.



Fourth, you are looking at the mute lead coming off the KlaT 7 wire harness, I did not need to use this when I connected with the NewMiniStuff wire harness. It was already built into the it. Another reason to go with the NewMiniStuff wire harness.



Fifth, a closer look at all the mounting pieces for the remote control unit it’s battery (The yellow marble is just for the viewer to get a better angle on the rectangular mount).



Sixth, a closer look at the business end of the dual microphone module, the noise cancellation on this unit is far superior to any others I have heard or used.



Seventh, the connector end of the 10 foot microphone cable, nothing fancy, it just plugs into the control box.





Eighth, a closer look at the 6 foot usb interface cable with proprietary connector for updating the firmware in the control box through the microphone module.



Ninth, the following pictures are of the remote control unit or module. It is 1.75” in diameter and 0.5” thick (44.45mm X 12.7mm). On the back you can see the battery cover as well as two holes which slide over the two flexible posts on the black remote holder. On the face of the remote there are five buttons (answer, end, skip forward, skip backward, and play/pause/mute)







Finally, you now see several views of the controller box. It measures 4.375” L by 4.5” W by 0.625” D (111.13 X 114.3 x 15.88mm) and weighs next to nothing. On the end you can see where the 24 pin ISO wire harness connector as well as the microphone connector plug in.









While I was waiting for the wire harness to arrive from NewMiniStuff in England I fabricated a small, lightweight bracket to mount the remote control behind the tachometer on the steering column. I had a scrap piece of medium gauge metal (the right strength combined with the right thickness) lying around so I used my Dremel tool to cut out the bracket and then painted it black.
What you are looking at below are all the pieces I needed to install the bracket for behind the tachometer: two 3/8” diameter nylon spacers 0.5” long (9.5mm x 12.7mm) and metric threaded screws cut 0.5” longer than the factory ones which I removed from the back of the tachometer assembly. To remove the tachometer is very simple, just unscrew the two screws holding it in place behind the tech and unclip the green connector from the bottom rear of the tachometer.









Next, I needed a mount for the microphone module up by the rearview mirror and after trying out several different materials I settled on a household paint roller tray as being my metal of choice.. Sorry I don’t have a picture of the paint roller tray with a giant hole cut out of it. I removed the rearview mirror by grabbing it at the base (the part in direct contact with the headliner) and rotating it 90 degrees, it doesn’t matter if you do it clockwise or anti-clockwise, and then it will drop free. NOTE: if you have a mirror with electronics in it you will need to disconnect the wire when the mirror drops free.

After some tinkering I settled on the design below. It is flush with the radius of the mirror mount and only a very small portion of the mount is visible when the mirror is reinstalled.







The day after finishing my mirror mount this little package arrived via registered mail, of course I wasn’t home so I had to go down to the post office the next day and pick it up in person with ID in hand. Boy was it worth it though!!!



Once opened the contents were exposed and ready to be installed. There was a hand written note on the invoice from Mike at NewMiniStuff saying I may need to reverse the yellow and red wires on the KlaT 7 wire harness for permanent and keyswitch live but later found that wasn’t necessary. Thank for the heads up Mike but your harness was perfect straight from you. Again, the harness I ordered from NewMiniStuff was the ISO Phone Interface P&P USA for the MKi series Parrot handsfree kit and it was dead nuts on and works perfectly.





NOW FOR THE INSTALL:
First thing you need to do is remove the OEM radio unit from the center stack, for pre-2005 cars this is a pain but 2005-2006 it is much simpler. Here is a link for the removal http://www.mini2.com/forum/faq.php?f..._faq_head_unit

Once the stereo is removed you need to unplug the large rectangular connector from the rear of the head unit, you will also need to disconnect the antenna lead as well. In the large connector you will have one possibly two smaller, rectangular connector at the bottom that may need to be moved over to the wire harness from NewMiniStuff. The first is white and is the connector from the rear of the car that is there to connect a CD Changer if one is installed, the other would be black if you have installed the factory Line-In adapter like I had. I personally do not have a CD changer so I left it as is in the factory stereo connector but I did move the black Line-In connector over to the NewMiniStuff wire harness.

Plug the small NewMiniStuff wire harness connectors into the one on the KlaT 7 wire harness making sure your have the correct color coded harness connected into the matching color coded harness on the NewMiniStuff cable. This is really important, make sure all the colored wires match up or it will not work.



Once all of the harnesses are inserted properly connect the OEM harness (the one originally connected to the head unit) into the male connector of the NewMiniStuff cable, then connect the female connector of the NewMiniStuff cable onto the back of the OEM head unit. MAKE SURE the connector is inserted all the way and the moveable locking arm is locked down securely.



!!!IF YOU DO NOTHING ELSE IN THIS DIY, DO THIS!!! Now test the install, if you have done it correctly the stereo will turn on whether the key is turned on or not. If you can’t get the stereo to come on without the key turned on something is wrong. This is how I knew I didn’t need to switch the two wires the Mike had suggested on the harness. With the car key switched on you should hear the voice of the KlaT 7 unit if your head unit is not turned off. If it is, turn the car off with the head unit on and then turn the key on again, you should hear the voice.

Installation of the Microphone Module

With the rear view mirror removed there is a small black rivet looking thing directly in from of the connecting point that needs to be pulled out. Simply and gently pull on the center button and this will release the center of the headliner from the exterior body shell.



Next, unscrew both of the driver side sunshade attachment points, the screws are located under little covers which I removed using a thin bladed putty knife. Do so very gently and don’t misplace the screws or covers. What we are trying to do is allow the headliner to drop ever so slightly to allow us to slide the microphone wire up into the headliner from the front where the glass meets the headliner. The first picture is of the sunshade anchor point being removed (don’t forget to unplug the lighted mirror connector once the screws are out) and the seconded is of the retainer point removed. Both need to be removed for even the tiniest moved of the headliner to take place.





Gently push the microphone wire up into the headliner area, very little effort should be needed. Right in front of my rearview mirror there is a very small notch cut out in the headline (no idea why!) and it is perfect for being the initial insertion point of the wire into the headliner without putting any pressure on the wire insulation. This next picture shows where I had the microphone wire come out of the head liner and wrap around the plastic A-pillar cover. I didn’t want to risk breaking an A-pillar cover retaining clip so this is how I got the wire to route down to the dash area. The wire is only visible for roughly 1.5” (38.1mm) and then it goes inside the A-pillar cover, if you didn’t know it was there you would even notice it. If you are worried about friction cutting through the insulation just place a couple wraps of electrical tape around the insulation and call it good, I just left it alone.



The final routing of the wire down the A-pillar is accomplished by removing a small amount of the black, weather sealing on the body door opening. With this removed the wire simply slides inside the A-pillar cover and down into the side dash area. The side of the dash has a cover plate that can be removed with a putty knife like I used before or even your fingers, just be careful and don’t cut them. To fish the microphone through this small gap I had to slightly unscrew the big six sided bolt under the dash, against the exterior wall to move the dash out 1/4” (6.35mm) or so. Once the plastic connector for the microphone was through I just tightened in down real good and the hard part was over.

Here is a picture of the wire fed through the side dash opening and headed down under the driver’s side dash area.



MOUNTING THE KlaT 7 UNDER THE DASH!

I have an OEM parcel shelf under my steering wheel so it takes a little effort to remove it, not two hard though ( 2 screws and 2 clips). If you have the standard USA bolster just put your fingers in the gap below the steering column and give a good strong yank downward and voila your opening is complete. I mounted my connector box above and behind the OEM head unit using some heavy duty Velcro and then secured the wire and harnesses under the dash using zip ties. You will need to find what works best for you and get it done. Remember to make sure all connectors are securely seated and latched before closing everything up or you will end up like me and having to find that the 24-pin connector had come slightly loose and push it back in.





Here are the final install pics of the remote control and the microphone module in place, I feel they are the perfect locations but feel free to put them wherever you see fit.







These final two pictures show the iPhone 4 connected to the KlaT 7 unit via Bluetooth , the unit has muted the radio and is playing the music from the phone. If you push the pause button on the remote control after a second or two the radio will fade back in to whatever station you have playing. You can also see the phone is picking up my Apple TV2 via my WiFi in the house (just explaining what that is on the iPhone screen).





That concluded the DIY of the DriveNTalk KlaT 7 handsfree kit, it is a great kit and very simple to install with the right harnesses. Would it be possible to do this same install with a stereo harness sourced in the USA instead of through NewMiniStuff, you bet but I really like the peace of mind knowing the wire harness is made by someone with extreme knowledge of the internals of a MINI. If you are wondering if NewMiniStuff really knows what they are doing with electronics just check out the photos on their webpage of other cars they have worked on. Anyone who trusts their Bugatti Veyron to them must say something about their professionalism and skill, just my 2 cents!

http://www.newministuff.com/new/inde...tion=14&aid=21

 

After 3 weeks of use I have to say this product is worth ever single penny I paid for it. The audio quality is superb on calls and music can either be streamed over bluetooth or piped using my Aux in and they sound equally good. I would not hesitate to buy this product again for any car.

 

Works awesome at streaming Pandora, running MotionX Drive gps software and answering calls via bluetooth all at the same time. When the call is terminated it goes right back into streaming audio and giving directions via MotionX all via wireless connection.

This kit rocks, more than meets my expectations!

 

After running this unit for two months I have to say it is top notch and would recommend it whole-heartedly to anyone wanting to install an aftermarket handsfree unit which can deal with multiple input types and do them all extremely well!

 

This unit is still working flawlessly, so if there is anyone out there looking for an awesome handsfree kit that enables Bluetooth music streaming this is a great choice!

 

More than a terabyte of photos vintage, retro, sports, concept cars, and official cars. The largest collection on the internet in my opinion. http://myxpage.org/autos Write if you know where there is more.

 

JBING thanks for this info I have been looking for a GOOD unit for my 03.

 

Old thread resurrection alert:

Does the Klat 7 utilize the HK amp for Bluetooth streaming music (or radio and CD for that matter), or does it only get amplified by the Klat 7 itself?

Thanks, Jeremy

 

I'm glad that you found this thread, it look like a solid unit. Researching their website found this.

Provides high quality sound performance using in-car speakers
By using in-car speakers, KlaT7 provides outstanding sound performance compared to other types of hands-free. When your phone is connected to the KlaT 7, it uses front 2 speakers for calls and 4 speakers for music playback via Bluetooth streaming.

It should use the whole system for music etc... Maybe not for calls.

I do wonder what was the total cost, I would really like to purchase this unit

 

I looked at the wiring diagram in the Klat 7 maunal online and the way this thing works is to intercept the signal between the amp and the speakers. I think when using the radio or CD player the Klat just makes the connections as if it weren't there and they work like normal. But it seems like the Bluetooth signal is inserted to the speakers from the Klat itself. However, there is an asterick note about using the Aux signal that may indicate you can have the streaming music go through the car's amp system, but I'm not clear on that. And according to Jbing in this post, he didn't use the Klat's Aux outputs.

The cost for the unit runs in the mid-$150 range, but that doesn't come with a plug-n-play adapter. Jbing spent another $50 on that. I think I could splice it in myself, but I don't feel like I have quite all the right info as to how to hook it up.

 

So I did some research by sitting in various locations around the car and listening. With the KlaT 7 installed the way I have listed in my How-To I can get bluetooth audio no matter what input I have selected (Radio/CD/Aux) and it plays through ALL the speakers via the HK amp. I figured this out by playing audio and then manipulating the sound field settings via the head unit. All changes made via the HU changed the sound field in the car.

For phone calls it plays through all the speakers not just the front speakers, this makes it MUCH easier to hear.

The wiring harness I feel is what makes ALL of this possible, it was so worth every penny.

You can get one of the KlaT7 systems on ebay currently, NIB, for $89 plus $8 S/H. Amazon has them for $135 with Free S/H.

It is a great system for the money with these parts installed, I do feel it would be a little less so with only part of them.

Any other questions, feel free to post it.

 

Thanks Mr. Bing for the additional details. I think I'm getting a pretty good picture now of how this hooks up. It's good to hear you're still pleased 3 years later - now that stands the test of time!

It's interesting, the different approaches you can take to do this. The GROM and Dension use the AUX input, while the Parrot and Klat tap in between the HU and amp.

Is volume for BT controlled by both the HU and the Klat remote (and the phone BT volume, for that matter)? Do you know how it is that the speaker-level signal from the Klat is not way to high for the line-level input on the amp?

One more thing. Can you please 'splain your statement in your review:

"!!!IF YOU DO NOTHING ELSE IN THIS DIY, DO THIS!!! Now test the install, if you have done it correctly the stereo will turn on whether the key is turned on or not. If you can’t get the stereo to come on without the key turned on something is wrong"

Why would the stereo turn on with the key off? It doesn't normally do that.

Thanks!

 

Yes, the volume is controlled by the phone, HU, and KlaT remote. I'm not sure about the signal level going into the amp, I keep my KlaT volume at max going into the HU and it sounds perfectly fine, go figure. My 2004 MCS is set up (from the factory) for the radio to turn on without a key in the ignition. I push in on the volume/power button and the stereo will turn on for about twenty minutes, the KlaT system though is not active without the ignition turned on. It might just be a early 2004 model year thing.

Jason

 

Does anybody know if Mikey's interface harness is functionally equivalent to the QCBMW-F from http://www.quickconnectproducts.com/Find/find.php ? Do they tie into the system the same way? They are both compatible with the Parrot's (and thus presumably the Klat as well).

I ask because there's a QCBMW-F available to me for a great deal.

Thanks!

 

They look similar but I couldn't tell you if they share all the same functionality.

Jason

 

Jason, it turns out my stereo will turn on without the key in as well - cool feature I didn't know about!

How is the mic performance under adverse conditions, how well does it reject noise? Highway speeds? Windows down? Ours is a convertible. I know I can't change physics, but I'm wondering if it will work with, say, the top down and windows up.

Thanks! Jeremy

 

Àdaptor is probably a SOT-976. I'm on a phone so it's a bit difficult to check.

The HK amp takes the front speaker level audio only as the inputs. All other outputs and tons controls are achieved inside the amplifier.

 

The inputs from the HU to the HK amp are speaker level? So is this Boost HU the exact same one used in base stereo models? So if the HK is set up for speaker level input, that 'splains why the Parrot or Klat with speaker level outs can go right into it.

So all the sound shaping including the treble and bass controls happens inside the amp, right?

 

Yes to all of the above.

The HK Amp reports it's presence over the Databus to the HU. The HU then locks it's speaker level outputs at about 80% and defeats all internal tone controls. Not sure if the rear outputs are disabled because they are not connected.

The HK amp now takes over all volume, tone, balance, fader, EQ etc in its own DSP, based on Databus control messages from the HU.

 

This is very helpful! Do you know anything about the connection of the factory Bluetooth input? I believe it puts a "PHONE" display on the HU screen. Does it then play thru the HK amp? Or is it possible that the MUTE or PHONE input on the HU causes the phone incoming voice signal to bypass the HK and only be amplified by the HU for some reason, possibly into just the front speakers?

 

There are two inputs, MUTE and TEL_ON.

Originally it was designed like this:

MUTE [Active Low] should mute the radio, pause the CD player.

TEL_ON [Active High] should switch the audio to the TEL_NF ports, mixing it onto the front channels.



All of this happens in the radio. The amplifier simply amplifies. The amp has all these inputs too and on early cars this function happened in the HK amp.

On the MINI the TEL_ON function also performed the MUTE function. However I've not managed to get this working. It would mute, display PHONE, but the TEL_NF did not get mixed onto the outputs.

TEL_NF should be speaker level audio.

 

Thanks again to all in this thread for info, esp jbing and joylove. I bought and installed a BT system and just posted the details in another thread:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...01#post3861201