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R60/R61 Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for R60 AND R61 MINI Cooper and Cooper S MINIs.
Hi All,
a couple days earlier, I was driving home and got a half check engine light (about a mile from my home on 40 mph road), reduced power in yellow type check engine light. I plan to get it checked tomorrow, the shop Im going to is about 8-10 minute drive away, and about 4 miles. However, I have to get on highway for about one exit to get there.
My main two questions are. most importantly (1) can I drive on the highway with this type of check engine light, and (2) what could have caused this light. Car is a Mini Countryman S model with about 65,000 miles.
Any codes? If it is anything like what I just went through it’s your diverter Valve. I drove 300 miles home, and kept it out of boost. I was able to get the half check engine light to turn off, but could not use any boost or it would pop back up. Replacement should be here today.
I didn't get a chance to check codes. My heart literally sunk when that light came on, and I was almost home. It was a rough day. I didn't hear any weird noises, I just moderated my revving, and now I just need to be able to get it 8 minutes and one highway exit down to the shop.
I lost my DV on the tail of the dragon, shifting into third, heading into the first turn just above the store, so like a quarter mile in. I gently got her to the first pull off and didn’t see anything crazy. I have a dv spacer and intake, and when I got into any boost I could here the dv fluttering.
For you, I would drive it to the shop, be as gentle on the throttle as you can, shift at 3k, try to keep it out of boost.
Or if you have some tools, it isn’t that hard to get to the dc to check it, had mine out in 5 minutes. Moving the coolant reservoir around is the hardest part of the job really, if you have the proper tools. The bolt heads are either a t30 or 5mm hex key.
I don't know if this changes the equation but since I have auto transmission, I guess I should then keep the RPM low correct? If so, how fast should I drive? I don't want to drive fast, but just keep the speeds reasonable for the one exit needed.
My concern is timing, due to a unusually busy week its just poor timing, and I don't know if I can find the time to check it between now and tomorrow morning.
I don't know if this changes the equation but since I have auto transmission, I guess I should then keep the RPM low correct? If so, how fast should I drive? I don't want to drive fast, but just keep the speeds reasonable for the one exit needed.
I drove 85 mph for about 280 of those 300 miles, I used cruise control and I have a 6 speed so it was easy for me to be gentle. Just be easy on her and seriously try to keep it out of boost and you should be fine for your short trip.
I appreciate the advice. It's just disheartening, I had engine service issues before this is just the first check engine light like that. I'll try to keep the RPM below the "3" line. Thank you very much.
Hey, so I just replaced mine yesterday took about 15 minutes to put it all back together. This is something that you seriously could check in 30 minutes or so on your first go around. There are 2 different designs on these things. ECS Tuning has the new style pierburg’s for like 40 bucks, and I remembered another forum member, thank you again Nik, had one laying around. You might be able to find a used one, like I did, to have as a spare in the glove box for next time. And I was able to swap my Alta boost spring over with no issues. New style on bottom New style on right, old style on left will be my spare.
UPDATE: Check engine light turned off when I drove the car above 20mph the next day, and it has stayed off since then.
Be prepared for it to come back on and when it does it could be the same or some other issue. Every time my daughter shows up in her MINI there is a light or code for something. Get yourself a code reader, it is the MVP of tools for the Mini.