'13 R60 Engine Knocking & Vibrating After Sparkplug Change
#1
06-25-2018, 06:11 AM
'13 R60 Engine Knocking & Vibrating After Sparkplug Change
Hey all! I am relatively new to this forum, and I am hoping that you can help me. I posted this in a different forum, but I don't think it was the correct area. I have a '13 Countryman that I just changed the spark plugs on. When I did that, the car is now idling extremely rough (think--the engine is shaking) and knocking. The engine light comes on immediately upon startup. I replaced the spark plugs with the same NGK plugs (Click Here For Detailed Link). I also installed some new ignition coils thinking that may solve the problem, and it didn't.
I am in dire need of some help. Does anyone have any ideas I can try before I take it to a mechanic. Also, please have mercy on me--although I can figure out how to do most things repair related, I don't have a big background with cars. Thank you greatly for any assistance you can provide.
I am in dire need of some help. Does anyone have any ideas I can try before I take it to a mechanic. Also, please have mercy on me--although I can figure out how to do most things repair related, I don't have a big background with cars. Thank you greatly for any assistance you can provide.
#2
08-08-2018, 04:51 PM
Sorry, I realize this post is a bit old, but did you ever get anywhere with this? I couldn’t tell from your links, so I’m not sure what those plugs are. But my guess as to what is going on is the plugs or coils. You want to use either the OEM plugs or the NGK 1422’s IIRC. There are threads on here about plugs, just do a quick search for the proper plugs and gaps. Coil packs.... hmmm..... you shouldn’t use anything but OEM, period. I had some that I bought to replace mine and they made the car misfire like crazy! You can use the OEM coils, they are good until you get over 300hp. They don’t like other brands! If you have the correct plugs and gapping, take off the new coils and put the old ones back on, then drive it and see if it helps.
On a side note, depending on when it was built, Mini used either Bosch or Delphi coils. You can cross reference the part #’s and get the exact OEM coils without the MINI logo on them for significantly less than the MINI version, but it’s the same exact coil.
let us know how you came out of it.
On a side note, depending on when it was built, Mini used either Bosch or Delphi coils. You can cross reference the part #’s and get the exact OEM coils without the MINI logo on them for significantly less than the MINI version, but it’s the same exact coil.
let us know how you came out of it.
#3
08-08-2018, 06:57 PM
#5
08-10-2018, 10:16 PM
Hey there! Thank you for the reminder to get back about this issue. I really appreciate your advice. I have the car running much better now, but it is still not 100%. I think there is an issue with the socket for the first plug, as it doesn't tighten as easily as the other three. It runs well enough that the check engine light went away, but it still idles pretty rough, and it seems like the gas mileage isn't as good either. It hasn't been the daily driver lately as I have been traveling, so it got put on the back burner a little bit. I'm hoping to spend some time with it this weekend to get things running a bit better.
In terms of getting the plugs seated correctly, how helpful/necessary is it to use a torque wrench? Also, even though the spark plugs are NGK's that are supposed to be OEM, they aren't the 1422's. I may pick up a set this weekend to see if that helps.
In terms of getting the plugs seated correctly, how helpful/necessary is it to use a torque wrench? Also, even though the spark plugs are NGK's that are supposed to be OEM, they aren't the 1422's. I may pick up a set this weekend to see if that helps.
#6
08-10-2018, 11:00 PM
The 1422’s are a colder heat range than the stock plug. A lot of folks use them if they are using anything like a JB+ or have an ECU tune or mods. They are a good idea especially if you are running higher boost levels. I torque my plugs to 17.5 ft/lbs, that’s what I found when looking for what it should be. But do not totally take my word for it, lol.
Make sure that you have a new crush washer on your plugs when you put them in, and that the old ones came out with the old plugs. If the boot on the coil doesn’t seat all the way down tight to the valve cover, it will likely misfire. Also make sure that all of the wires are plugged snugly into the tops. They lock down with the lever thing. If it’s not fitting just right, then it will probably cause some issues, they are finicky that way.
Do do you have a way to read the codes? That will help point you in the direction to check next.
Good luck
Make sure that you have a new crush washer on your plugs when you put them in, and that the old ones came out with the old plugs. If the boot on the coil doesn’t seat all the way down tight to the valve cover, it will likely misfire. Also make sure that all of the wires are plugged snugly into the tops. They lock down with the lever thing. If it’s not fitting just right, then it will probably cause some issues, they are finicky that way.
Do do you have a way to read the codes? That will help point you in the direction to check next.
Good luck
#7
08-11-2018, 09:15 PM
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