2012 Mini Countryman S all4

Limp more comes on, only when it feels like coming on?
When it does come on, nothing changes performance wise. No sluggishness or hard shifting. If you restart the car the light will go away for days. I’ve noticed a faint burning cooling smell lately, but can’t seem to get any codes to show up.
The most common way for the light to come on, take it for a long drive, park it for a few hours, drive again for about 20 minutes and it comes on. Then it’ll go away again when you shut it off.
Been chasing this since we bought it. PLEASE HELP!!

 

I'm new here but see you haven't received any support. I don't suppose you have a scanner to check for codes? ECSTuning.com has a nice scanner specifically for MINI/BMW. It's not cheap, but it shows you just about every bit of data you could want, might find something relevant.

You mention a "burning cooling smell" I assume you mean burning coolant. Have you had to add any to confirm a leak/burn?

 

Yeah I meant “burning coolant smell”, phone must have changed it. Haven’t found a leak of any sort.
I have a scanner, and I’ve stopped at my local auto stores for their scanners. But nothing ever comes up, once you start the car back up the light goes away.

 

An Autozone scanner is a very simple OBD2 scanner. It shows active and sometimes pending stored OBD2 codes. There is a lot more information in the cars computer that you can only access with a scanner like I mentioned before. I mean, if the car is running good then I'm not advising you spend the money. But it might offer an answer, unfortunately I'm too new around here to have practical advice for you. best of luck.

 

Doesn’t limp mode change the way the car performs? Fortunately, I haven’t experienced any problems with my 2015 Justa, so I have not seen any codes, or messages. But I was under the impression, from my reading here, that the car acts differently in limp mode. So, if no changes in performance, when the light goes on, and especially if it then disappears, I say, let it be. It is a computer glitch, of some sort. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!”

Kat
P. S. But, check the bypass valve. It might be sticking....

 

If you get the schwaben tool, it will show the specific MINI codes. Those general ones dont show them. Scan it and see what shows up.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...020sch01a~scf/

 

I was finally able to get a code from an OBD2 scanner, and I set up an appointment with my closest mini.
The OBD gave me “P13C9”

 

A general scan tool like they have at AutoZone won’t tell you hardly anything. You need something that will read the proprietary BMW software. I use the Schwaben too, it’s excellent.
My example I use is when my wastegate was failing. The car was actively in limp mode, and their scan tool showed no codes. Fifteen minutes later a local BMW shop pulled 5.
They can be a bit pricey (although it’s cheaper now than when I bought one) but most shops will scan for codes for no charge. Take it to a local BMW/MINI or euro Indy shop and get it scanned for the real codes.
Then we can help

 

I did a quick search of the P13C9 code and it has to do with your exhaust Vanos. I found an interesting article noting that the Vanos solenoid can get clogged and reduce oil pressure to the Vanos resulting in reduced capacity to retard exhaust valve timing, causing the fault. The solenoid isn’t too hard to clean so maybe you’d want to try that first?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm

 

Brought the Mini in for a full inspection, got an $8,000 estimate.
Needs new brakes
Oil filter housing gasket leaking oil
Tightening chain guide bolts leaking oil
Water pump pulley is starting to crack
Front crank shaft is leaking oil
Oil leaking through sensor, causing check engine light. Vanos solenoid valves/actuator (no idea what this one is)
Smoke coming out of leaking valve cover

Now the next question, where to start? Any help?

 

Can you diy and do you have tools? If you DIY or can get a local shop that works on MINI you can save $$$$

Needs new brakes : https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...8B16A/Braking/
Oil filter housing gasket leaking oil : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Tightening chain guide bolts leaking oil : Tensioner? https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...ngine/Timing/2 Part # 11317607551
Water pump pulley is starting to crack : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mp-pulley.html http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11517619020/
Front crank shaft is leaking oil : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...st-post-2.html
Oil leaking through sensor, causing check engine light. Vanos solenoid valves/actuator (no idea what this one is) : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...heck-it-3.html Wicking oil or https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-.../Timing/VANOS/ diagram https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...86#11368610388 takes 2 on the backside. #1 DIY https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Smoke coming out of leaking valve cover : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

Everything else: https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-..._1.6L_N18B16A/

 

That was the best reply I could have gotten, thanks so much for the links! Time to park it for awhile and start ordering parts!

 

Welcome! Bring it back to life.

 

They have you covered! I order stuff from ECS all the time.
It’s absolutely true, the labor cost on these things is ridiculous! But if you can DYI you can save a ton!
Take that oil filter housing, I was quoted around $850 to replace the gaskets....they cost around $40.....they quoted for 8 hours of labor. When my turbo was out, it was a quick and easy fix while I was already in there.
Most of those you can do yourself pretty easily without much in the way of any special tools. Some Allen and Torx bits, and metric sockets and wrenches along with a torque wrench and you’re set. And you will want to get a MINI specific scan tool along the way at some point.
Good luck! Lots of is here for advice or help.... there are some great DIY tutorials on the site, as well as places like Pelican parts has some useful ones too. If you can’t find one for an R60, use an R56 tutorial, that are close enough for the most part, very minor differences except the drivetrains of the All4. But all the engine stuff is exactly the same.