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R60 Cylinder Not Firing?

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Old 01-06-2015, 05:51 AM
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Cylinder Not Firing?

3 of the 4 valves look like the grey (left picture) and 1 closest to the driver side looks oilily and black (right picture). Does this mean there is a leak or this cylinder not firing or to rich of fuel?
 
Attached Thumbnails Cylinder Not Firing?-fullsizerender.jpg   Cylinder Not Firing?-fullsizerender-1.jpg  
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:51 AM
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the one pictured on the right looks like pretty typical carbon build up as a result of direct injection from what i've seen. the ashier looking ones, i'd assume it's probably carbon as well but i'm not sure why these 3 cylinders look different.

... i lost interest in installing a catch can 6 months after i got my CM.. maybe i should look into it again.

what happened to make you take these photos ?
year, model and miles of your CM ?
 

Last edited by dpike; 01-06-2015 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:38 AM
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2011 All4 83K replaced the Ignition Coils, Injectors to finally replace the High Pressure Fuel Pump and then the car said the Crank Position Sensor is bad. So I was on the hunt to look for this sensor knowing it was bottom part of the engine by the firewall. So started jumping into the engine and found that its by the transfer case and have to raise the car. Always wanted to see inside the engine and haven't purchased a USB Endoscope yet so I took pictures looking into the engine. Now I'm thinking it's time to get rid of the car because of this one valve.
 
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:31 AM
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carbon build up is common in minis there's lotsa threads about it and for 83k miles it actually doesn't seem that bad... in the first 3 cylinders. even at that you can google images of minis with 100k miles and much worse build.
 
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Old 01-06-2015, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dpike
carbon build up is common in minis there's lotsa threads about it and for 83k miles it actually doesn't seem that bad... in the first 3 cylinders. even at that you can google images of minis with 100k miles and much worse build.
My only concern is cylinder 4 if that is the correct number for it, the dark oilly one.
 
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:02 PM
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Article about Carbon Build Up

http://m.penbaypilot.com/affiliate-p...problems/59334

Here's the article if the link ever quits.

"As Maine’s Mini Cooper Specialists, at the Atlantic Motorcar Center we see more than a few Mini Coopers with direct injection engines that have carbon build-up on the intake valves. While direct injection engines do offer enhanced fuel performance and cleaner emissions, these engines are more likely to have an issue with carbon build up on the intake valves.

Here are five Q&A’s related to intake valve carbon build-up.

Question: How do I know if carbon has built up on the intake valves of my car?

Answer: When this happens, you will begin to experience drivability issues like the car not maintaining smooth engine performance, the engine vibrating and shaking after starting the car, or the car jerking or surging at stops. In essence, the engine just isn’t purring along as it should, and in most cases, the check engine light will be on.

Question: What causes carbon to build-up on the intake valves of Mini Coopers with direct injection engines?

Answer: We typically see this problem when a car is running at a less than optimal engine oil level. Some Mini Cooper owners are having their oil serviced every 15,000 miles based on the manufacturer’s recommendation. This is problematic because every 2000 to 3000 miles, the car will consume about a quart of oil. The oil can become thick and dirty and cause the piston rings in the engine to gum up. This results in an increase in fumes from combustion coming into contact with the intake valves, and this causes carbon build-up. Another issue is that with direct injection engines, the gasoline is no longer being sprayed onto the back of the intake valves. The additives in the gasoline (in non-direct injection engines) actually help to keep the valves clean. The result is that we have this combined effect of cars going too long between oil changes, running low on oil, and the intake valves not benefiting from the cleansing effect of gasoline.

Question: How do I prevent this intake valve carbon build up from happening?

Answer: One of the best ways to prevent this from happening is to change your oil more frequently. Don’t trust the on board computer oil change reminder system. Change the oil and filter every 5000 miles and add Lubromoly Valve Cleaner a protective engine oil additive, at every service. Some people say that using premium gasoline can help with this issue also. Additionally, your auto service shop can check to ensure that the engine management system is functioning correctly.

Question: What do I do if this happens to my car?

Answer: Well, there are a few ways to correct this problem.

• Cleaning the Engine Piston Rings – Your service provider may recommend that the the engine piston rings be cleaned. To do this a special additive is added to the oil and the engine is run at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes. Then the engine oil is drained and a new oil filter is installed along with new oil. If the piston rings are in a very poor shape then the spark plugs have to be removed and a cleaning solution added to each cylinder. This is allowed to soak over night. In very bad cases the engine’s cylinder head has to be removed. The head is then sent to a machine shop for cleaning and repairing of the valve seats.

• Intake Valve Cleaning – If the carbon build up is very bad then your auto service provider may recommend that the valves be cleaned using a spray method which involves injecting a clearner into the air intake system. In extreme cases the intake manifold is removed and the carbon is blasted off with a special injection system that uses “walnut shells”.

Question: What’s involved in diagnosing a carbon build up issue like this?

Answer: Here is a list of “diagnostics checks” that your auto service shop may perform. A few of them check the integrity of the seals, while others check performance.

• Run a scan and evaluate the codes and data stored in the system or computer

• Conduct a vacuum reading test at idle and at 2000 rpm

• Check the engine blow by

• Check the valve timing

• Check compressions

• Perform a cylinder leak test

The important thing to remember is that regular servicing can help to prevent or catch some of these issues earlier, before you end up with a huge repair bill. Also, if you are having drivability issues, be sure to download our drivability diagnostic questionnaire.

Final
Earning your trust, every time you turn the car…that’s what we do…every day…for the last 30 years. Click here see what our happy customers have to say about us and our service at AMC Customer Reviews. If you have questions, or if we can be of further assistance, just call us at (207) 882-969, we’d love to meet you, and your car!

Warmly,
Bruce and the AMC Service Team"
 
  #7  
Old 09-29-2015, 05:46 AM
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I wonder if that one cylinder is somehow closer to the PCV system so it's pulling in most of the oil? I'm curious what mine look like. I know the N18s are supposed to be better when it comes to carbon buildup on the intake valves.
 
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:21 PM
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^^^ditto
 
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:41 PM
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Why not just use BG44K before every oil change? Seems more simple than dealing with all this engine trouble down the line.

Amazon.com: BG44K: Automotive Amazon.com: BG44K: Automotive
 
  #10  
Old 09-30-2015, 11:57 AM
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Since these are direct injection engines (directly into the cylinders), the fuel injection cleaner won't ever see the intake valves to clean them. Might clean up the piston tops a little...
 
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