Hi,
I'm about to give an offer for 2015 Roadster Copper S with 62K millage on it.
I'm just hesitant about this deal because of the N18 engine.
Not sure when this engine would start giving me problems (especially the timing chain), then I would be ending paying for maintenance and parts! I asked my local Mini dealership to give me an estimate for replacing the timing chain (as precaution) and they told me it would cost me around US$4500 with parts.

Could you please give me some advice here? When your engine start giving you problems? At what millage? And what type of problems?

Thank you.

 

You can get a local place to do the timing chain and get the kit from us. The miles are lower on that one so at 62K for the n18 is not bad. When you get one and dont know the history, over 100K then you have to worry. If you can find them with 20-30K on the dash that's huge. Going with the newest years of the N18 or N14 help. Thats where you are at.

HPFP - 80K+ but you should have the third design, which is less problems. https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...el_Pump_22527/


Timing n18 around 100K, some i have seen go well into 100K before the rattle. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-tool-n18.html https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2015-...Engine/Timing/
Thermostat/waterpipe 80K if not done before. https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2015-...ngine/Cooling/
Oil wicking on the later N18: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-check-it.html

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the chain, assuming the engine was taken care of. My N18 engine is at ~180k miles on original timing chain. Regular oil changes are KEY for these engines.

Pop the hood, and pull the oil fill cap. Take a look at the cams. Take note of any varnishing on the car shafts. If they look black and have deposits, take a hard pass. That would indicate running the car hard, and not paying attention to oil change intervals. If it looks clean in there, you're likely to be in the clear. Then, follow up with 5000 mile oil changes. Also, check the oil level and top up every 2500 miles.

 

More questions as I'm planning to keep it for life because I like the body shape:
- I'm not familiar with the End of Life cycle for BMW, so what happens in case the dealership tells me in the future that they do not carry a particular spare part because my R59/N18 model has been discontinued already?
- In the future is it passible to replace the N18 engine with another engine from a different company? I mean some sort of a new rebuild for the R59 body but with more reliable engine?

 

I cannot answer your last questions.

I bought mine two years ago, 2012 S. It originally had 38,800 now has 85,000 I love the car! I change oil every 5000 miles. Other than that, I had a coil go bad so I replaced all 4, approximately $125 for the coils and about 1.5 hours labor with changing plugs as well.

Mine used to go through 1 Qt. of oil per 1000-1500 miles. After some research, I changed the PCV. Since then, I do not have to add a full quart between oil changes.

I haven't had the thermostat/cross over water pipe issue but if at 100,000 I haven't had it, I will be doing that with ECS's metal pipe. I also plan on doing the timing chain and guides at that point.

I am not touching the fuel pump unless it starts throwing codes or presenting problems that identify it as such. I try to run only 93 octane only, once in a while I stop at a place and all they have is 91. About every 4th tank full I add Lucas fuel treatment. I am not certain it is helping or not but I have personally experienced a huge difference with it in my 2006 Chevy dually Duramax. I just sold it this year with 445,000 miles on it and the injectors were just at the high end of the specs. If it can do this for injectors (which most were replacing them around 125-150,000 miles) I figure it has to help the fuel pump.

I forgot I did have a VANOS Solenoid that went bad. I replaced it as well. When I pulled out the old one, the screen had fibers almost plugging it. After some research on that, most said this came from using non OEM oil filters. They don't have to be OEM but the same brand. they can be purchased from ECS or any of the other suppliers. (I am from Ohio, so I tend to support my Homeboys)

 

Peugeot…would be a good start….

 

There are people out there who have swapped in the Honda K series engine. Obviously there are millions of those out in production, so sourcing parts would not be an issue.