R59 Rust Problems
Rust Problems
Now that our cars are getting older has anyone found any spots that I should be checking for rust? Maybe by the soft top, A panels or door sills like the R53's. I want to keep on top of things as Loki is going to be a keeper.
I've been under the car and I may try to clean up some rust underbody and do some touch up paint under there. Probably using some type of epoxy paint.
Last edited by TG.; May 3, 2019 at 04:55 PM.
if you want to spot on the underside I recommend POR15
I've used this on may rust spots over the years, especially in my 79 and it is expensive but works https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Stop-Rust-Kit
alternate is the EASTWOOD product ...
I've used this on may rust spots over the years, especially in my 79 and it is expensive but works https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Stop-Rust-Kit
alternate is the EASTWOOD product ...
I might give it a try...
What do you do around fastening hardware such as suspension mount, LCA bushings bolts, etc.... It seems that it's always there where it rust first, and I feel if I put something on there I'll regret it later when it's time to change the part.
What do you do around fastening hardware such as suspension mount, LCA bushings bolts, etc.... It seems that it's always there where it rust first, and I feel if I put something on there I'll regret it later when it's time to change the part.
The worst I've had so far (thankfully) is the license plate screws, and the set screw that holds the discs to the hubs. The rest of the car is doing really well, especially as it's a daily in the Northeast of the US where roads are more salt than asphalt during the winter.
Yep have not really seen any on my r58. My 2007 R56 had a little surface rust on the lower front subframe that painted black from the factory.
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So I just try POR15 on the few subframe elements that started to show rust. Mostly the black painted braces, arms, and such. The body has been free of rust.
I cannot comment on how well it will prevent more damage but I say that it's been a bit of a cumbersome kit. With three product and two rinses it wasn't easy to do this under the car with not even 2 feet of clearance to work with.
It's in those times I wish I had a real lift or a pit...
I cannot comment on how well it will prevent more damage but I say that it's been a bit of a cumbersome kit. With three product and two rinses it wasn't easy to do this under the car with not even 2 feet of clearance to work with.
It's in those times I wish I had a real lift or a pit...
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Ah ah... too late... I did wear gloves but that wasn't enough when you work upside down under a car! I had some on my face. It took me for ever to remove it. Splatter on my arm will stay a while
. . . Good advice though...
. . . Good advice though...
you can get POR off skin with simple spirits or better THEIR solvent ... IF you get it b4 it dries.
Once it dries you need a grinder or sand flap wheel! Or in the case of skin .... time ..... sand flap wheels are tough on skin . . .
Once it dries you need a grinder or sand flap wheel! Or in the case of skin .... time ..... sand flap wheels are tough on skin . . .
Last edited by Capt_bj; Jul 15, 2020 at 01:39 PM.
p.s. wrt the POR 'kit' and multiple steps ......
as a long time user of POR ..... if you know the area is clean of oil/grease ... and can wire brush to bright metal ..... then just slap the POR on .....
************************************
My comments of their process
step 1 is a strong de-greaser ... wash and rinse ... nothing special about the product
step 2 is a rust converter ..... available from many sources ... primary component is phosphoric acid .... changes the chemical composition of the 'rust' ..... have you ever seen COKE mentioned in rust conversion discussions? It has this chemical in its makeup ..... check the ingredients list of any rust converter and I'll bet you find phosphoric acid... you want this if you can't eliminate all the rust you can see ......like back sides .... soak the area well and hope for the best and when you apply the paint .. hope it TOO soaks into the pores.
as a long time user of POR ..... if you know the area is clean of oil/grease ... and can wire brush to bright metal ..... then just slap the POR on .....
************************************
My comments of their process
step 1 is a strong de-greaser ... wash and rinse ... nothing special about the product
step 2 is a rust converter ..... available from many sources ... primary component is phosphoric acid .... changes the chemical composition of the 'rust' ..... have you ever seen COKE mentioned in rust conversion discussions? It has this chemical in its makeup ..... check the ingredients list of any rust converter and I'll bet you find phosphoric acid... you want this if you can't eliminate all the rust you can see ......like back sides .... soak the area well and hope for the best and when you apply the paint .. hope it TOO soaks into the pores.
Thx for the info. I did tried spirits to clean off however as you stated it was dried by the time I was done so got a free tattoo... It's no big deal. The body skin is an amazing thing as it repelled most elements on the surface over time. Much already came off. Interestingly we did a small road trip yesterday and the sun cream seemed to help the paint fall off
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