I know jack stand questions have been asked before, but not apparently relating to the R59.

Based upon NAM searches I was going to use Blimey's 2x4 method to jack up my Roadster before lowering onto jack stands.
With this method you:

1. cut a 2x4 to fit between the 2 jack points along the sill to spread the weight
2. use a floor jack to lift the car by the 2x4
3. lower the car onto jack stands

Blimey's Blog: How a Stud lifts a Mini

However when I looked under the roadster I noticed that there is additional bracing that bolts on to the sill about 6 inches forward of the rear jack point. See attachment.

What method are roadster owners using to get their Minis on jack stands?

Anyone try the 2x4 method placed between the brace attachment and the forward jack point?

 

I use this point to lift the car:


(not my car, just an image I found online.)

However, I also use a wood board so the load is not overly concentrated. I also put the jack point on the far end of that area where the metal is stronger. I haven't seem it deform in any way.


.

 

@ TG
I've seen that photo. My only concern is that the photo shows deformation exactly where the jack has been placed.

Attached is a photo from under my roadster. The red arrow points at the same jackpoint and does not show any deformation.

If I understand correctly you are using a 2x4 to spread the weight along that protrusion, and position the jack nearer the green arrow.


I'll give that a go.

 

Actually I didn't realize the picture was the other way around (again not my car on the picture) so I am putting my jack by your red arrow. I use a nice 1/2" flat board rather than a 2x4 so its nice and flat, and the wood area is larger than the metal surface area it supports.

I also don't put the pressure where the hole is but slightly behind where it forms a bucket. The vertical wall of the metal should prevent deformation. Well it does cover the hole but the center point is not right below the hole. If that makes sense...

It seems to me that area always had a funny shape. I'm not convinced it's the jack, at list on mine. I use a low profile jack and the resting pad is quite large so I believe it is just not a precise metal forming and why the metal is not perfectly flat. I've check a few times and haven't noticed any sort of additional deformation from the time I lifted the car.

I would agree it's not perfect though, but for now it's working alright for me. Until I hear something better I'll continue to do it this way I think.

Greg

 

I place a 12" 2x4 near the front jacking point and then lift both wheels off the ground with a floor jack the same as I did with my 2010 hardtop.

rear point --------------board-front point

 

Here's an option I have used to lift the side of my MINI. I originally purchased this to use to lift both front wheels of my ATV and tractor, but it also works very well for the MINI.


http://www.harborfreight.com/steel-f...eam-60762.html


This fits on most hydraulic floor jacks with a removable lift plate (I use it on my 1.5t on Harbor Freight aluminum jack). The width of the cross beam is adjustable to about 36 inches wide, and lifts the side near both jack points simultaneously. While I didn't use it to set the car on jack stands, it simplified my front-to-back tire rotation on each side.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beam-80565.jpg

 

People really overcomplicate this stuff with all these specially cut boards and various special tools. I just do what this guy (and TG) says and put a board on the rail right behind the front jack point. I've used this lift point probably a hundred times with no deformation.

 

Well Son of a Bit*h, I bought those jack extenders about 7 years ag0. 2 of them when I bought my same Pittsburgh jack and neve rused them on any of my other vehicles, as the dimensions didn't fit, so I sold them last summer, and now I get a mini and I could have used them... crap. I practically GAVE them away too :(