I need help for once...
2016 R60 N18 (Wrong forum but theres morw traffic here)
114k Miles

I recently had a code P13C0 pop up idling at a stop light, giving me the half engine and limp mode. Once the code is cleared the car drives normal again.
I pulled the Vanos solenoids, replacing the rear as I had a spare and I cleaned the one closest to the front. There was a bunch of gunk on the one in the front, so I actually replaced it with the one from the rear. The code came back idling in traffic again.
I read it could be bad oil, so I put in some Liquid Moly Engine Flush and let it idle for 15 minutes and then did an oil change. I drove around for a while today and the car is running smooth and its peppy...but on my way to work tonight, once again at a light, the code came back.

I am worried it has to do with timing, although I have no other timing symptoms or issues.

What should I do or check next? Should I replaced both Solenoids with new replacements? How can I check to see if its the Vanos cams? How can I check timing without the cam lock set?

Do you see bad wear here?










I appreciate your time guys.

 

According to https://bmwfault.codes/Lookup it sounds like the VANOS solenoids need to be replaced. I would just get two new ones, just to make sure.

I used two of these in my R55 without issue:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...SIJS1RRQ%3D%3D

Your valve train looks pretty good, but maybe run another engine flush / oil change right before changing out the solenoids?

 

First check whether your new oil filter is clogged after the flush and oil change.

Next, enter your VIN at RealOEM. You will find one or two non-return valves on the N18 cylinder head. See part 06 in diagram. Try cleaning the non-return valve(s), which may be clogged.

 

@njaremka I ended up swapping the intake Vanos Solenoid for the one in the front and drove it around today more than I normally do. I even let it idle longer than normal just to see if the code would come back.
I havent had a code pop back up yet but idle is still not perfect (its close though). The car runs fine and has plenty of power but idle has random stumbles here and there.

@Maybe, maybe not I will look into those, I kind of expected to replace the Vanos gears if it continued but I will clean those out and do another flush with my fingers crossed.

 

The power was down and I suspected the Solenoids were causing the system to pull timing, the funny thing I wasnt getting any codes - I just felt the car was sluggish compared to normal. I replaced the solenoids with 2 new solenoids from Ebay, had the P13C0 code come back, I pulled the non-return valves and cleaned them out, the car felt as peppy as it should be, then the code came back after it idled for a bit. I ordered new solenoids from FCPEuro....Im really hoping this fixes the issue. Im terrified that Ill have to do the timing, I have no other timing symptoms so I am hoping its not the case but Im questioning the Aluminum Valve Cover as thats when all of this started. Maybe Ill replace it tomorrow with the stock cover just to see if thats the cause....Im just tired of all this at this point.

 

Maybe the cam position sensor isn’t reading correctly due to a bad seating in the valve cover?

 

When you had the valve cover off, did you check the tension of the timing chain? If so, was there any free play or was it rock solid as it should be?
The debris on the exhaust VANOS solenoid looks like it may be a mixture of carbonized oil (from turbo?) and plastic or metal debris.
Consider dropping the oil pan to look for plastic pieces from the timing chain guides.

 

This was a possibility I was considering, or maybe the cheap valve covers specs are slightly out of the normal range causing it

 

I will be checking it as I pull the valve cover off this time. I was wondering if the crap around the solenoid screen was from the new valve cover (burr bits mixed with carbonized oil from never being cleaned before). When I flushed the oil after the valve cover there wasnt any metal or plastic in the drained oil.
I did not have any of these issues before swapping to the new valve cover, I beleive it was a day or 2 after that I got the error and checked the solenoids and saw they were full of crap and I handnt tried swapping the cover back yet....which I will be doing when the rain stops today. I will report back with my findings.

 

The fact that your intake VANOS solenoid code P13C0 is generally thrown at idle, when oil pressure is at its lowest point, is a hint that the oil pickup screen may be clogged with debris and/or the oil debris has damaged the intake VANOS unit.

 

So I swapped the valve cover to the original, checked the amount of movement with the Vanos with a wrench (I dont have a timing kit yet). The camshafts move less than 10°, so from what I understand, it should be within spec.
I went out for a run and the car felt amazing, idled smoothly and had no issues. When I pulled into my driveway and I shut the car off to check if there were issues on restart as before and boom - a P13C0 popped up.
ill be dropping the pan, checking the pickup filter, and doing another flush/oil change and cross my fingers. I also have Bilstein Vanos Solenoids coming from FCPEuro to replace the ebay solenoids too.

Should I try Vanos Adaptions? Would that do anything? In this pictures if you look at where the locking collars of a Timing Kit would hold, does that look out of spec to you?

 

Because you replaced the VANOS solenoids, resetting the VANOS adaptations is justified.

When you remove the current solenoids to install the Bilsteins, check whether debris has once again accumulated on the intake solenoid.

 

There wasnt any debris when I swapped out this current set yesterday. I will do the adaptations though

 

Did the timing chain have any detectable free play or slack?

Based on your wrench test on the exhaust VANOS, you can conclude that the VANOS unit has not catastrophically failed. Unfortunately, you did not learn much about whether the chain is substantially stretched and has significant free play.

 

Since the valve cover didnt seem to be the issue Ill probably put the metal one back on, any idea on how I could check for slack without the timing tool/kit? I couldnt do much to budge the chain around where I could see.

 

That's really the most you can do until you receive the timing tool kit.

 

I put the metal valve cover back on, I couldn't feel any slack in the chain. I did change my oil filter and look it over but I didnt see anything bad aside from how dark the oil has gotten in the past 2 weeks.
After this I pulled the solenoids but I didnt see anything on them, I did the adaptation.
The car acted odd for a few moments when first accelerating but has been good since. I shut off and restarted the car 3 times with no error yet. I plan on changing the oil now to see if this further helps - Ill drop the pan when I do so to check the pick up filter.

 

I hope this simple step was the solution!

 

I really appreciate the help, my fingers are crossed that this was it....but my expectations are pretty low.

 

Good luck!

 

So of course the code came back while idling in traffic, I pulled out my other scanner that shows manufacturer codes instead of just going off the ultragauge. This is what follows:






I just got done replacing the intake side solenoid. Once again, no codes on start up/quick drive but give it time...

 

**Stop driving the car immediately.

Did you install the Bilstein solenoids?

Oil pressure to the head is now severely restricted and/or both VANOS units have failed. Is the oil level reading low? If not, consider dropping the oil pan soon and checking the oil filter again.

The liquid Moly Engine Flush has apparently loosened up years of carbon deposits and sludge from your engine.

 

This is how its been this week, I beleive its the same errors over and over. Ive replaced both solenoids 3 times and now the intake side 4.
​​​​​4.
Ill drop the pan tomorrow and do a flush. Once its all back together, where should I direct time next? Oil filter assembly? Oil Pump?

 

I dropped the pan after doing another flush. The oil was really dark and the last bit was pretty thick but nothing in the pan aside from oil, my magnet didnt collect anything either. I clean the oil pump filter as well.
I let the engine warm up and then went for a run, its definitly smoother and idles better but after a 20 minute run I came home and shut it off, I restarted right after and I got a few codes but they seem to concern the cooling system (3392, 2C58, 2EE6) but I also got 2EFE, 2EFF along with the P13C0 and 2D5A once again. After clearing them the car is once again fine and none of them have returned but we will see what happens through the day.

Pics of Pan and Assembly. There is a small rock from pulling the pan down but nothing else in the oil:

 

How frustrating. You've put a lot into that car, and are putting a whole bunch of time into this issue.

I'd be temped to throw a cam sensor at that pig at this point, or a VANOS actuator.