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After testing all JBE fuses, I next recommend you test whether K96 relay socket A (terminal 30) gets battery voltage (set meter to read DC volts; touch red probe to terminal 30 socket; and touch black probe to a good grounding point). The meter should read battery voltage (approximately same reading as touching the meter probes to the positive and negative battery posts). Inserting the key and pressing the start button without the brake or clutch pedal pushed may be required to get a voltage reading.
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Nov 8, 2025 at 05:07 AM.
JBE fuse F29 supplies voltage to the female OBDII connector in the driver footwell. If F29 has voltage at both tabs, you may want to test whether the voltage reaches the OBDII connector. The first image below illustrates the locations of +battery pin 16 and -battery pins 4 & 5 in the OBDII connector. The key may need to be inserted and the start button pressed without the brake or clutch pedal pushed to get a voltage reading. Touch the red meter probe to pin 16 and the black meter probe to the battery ground post, a known good ground point, or pin 4 or 5 to get the voltage reading for pin 16.
Mini cooper OBDII connector (same orientation as illustrated OBDII connector above)
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Nov 7, 2025 at 07:40 PM.
Edit: I realized that I wasn't grounded when I thought I was. I was getting 10V on all JBE fuses, but within 3 minutes I was already down to 9.2V. Do you think it could be a battery thing? Should I look at a replacement battery or a battery tender? About a year ago my battery would die constantly and I had to disconnect it every time I got out of the car, even though the battery was only about a year old. I also tried starting the car with a jump pack last time I tried and still just a crank no start
Last edited by WillCucco; Nov 8, 2025 at 04:09 PM.
Honestly I think my main problem at this point is just a bad battery. Even with another car hooked up my multimeter was reading 9.3V post to post on the battery.
Take the battery to a local auto parts store. They will test the battery and charge it for you, if the battery tests okay and is only low on charge. They will also tell you if the battery tests bad, which means you should replace it.
With a fully charged battery or new battery installed, check whether the LPFP now runs.
Well I was wrong. Took it to autozone, they charged up my battery (they said it was fine), and also bought a battery tender just to be sure. What else could be the problem at this point? All of my fuses are receiving voltage, including the K96 and the OBDII. I'm not hearing the LPFP run on crank, but surely there's no way it just blew up after I took my JBE out the first time
Post your current voltage readings (1) across the two battery posts, (2) at the two test tabs of fuse F46, and (3) at the terminal 30 socket (A) for the K96 relay.
If possible, use the battery ground post as ground for voltage tests 2 and 3 above.
Perfect! A few more multimeter tests should be insightful.
In a previous post, I labeled two of the four K96 relay sockets as A (terminal 30 voltage) and B (fuel pump wire). One of the two unlabeled K96 sockets (top and bottom socket) is voltage from F46 and the other is the DME ground wire for terminal 30 socket voltage. Use your multimeter to identify which of the two unlabeled sockets has voltage (should be 14V) and which has no voltage. Again use the battery ground post as ground for these two voltage tests.
The bottom socket is the one receiving voltage (though I had to find the exact spot in the socket for it to work), and the top socket is the one that doesn't receive voltage
Next voltage test: Touch the red meter probe to terminal 30 socket and black meter probe to the top socket that showed no voltage. What is the voltage reading?
Mini Cooper R56 PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards) are not universally interchangeable without specific programming or coding, as many of them are unique to the vehicle and store critical data like the VIN, odometer readings, and specific configurations
Mini Cooper R56 PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards) are not universally interchangeable without specific programming or coding, as many of them are unique to the vehicle and store critical data like the VIN, odometer readings, and specific configurations
Yeah, I said in a previous post that I was going to code the new board with my scan tool
Are you reading 14V at fuse F46 but only 12.6V between the unlabelled top & bottom sockets?
And what voltage do you read between the terminal 30 socket and the unlabelled top socket?
No, I think what happened was just that the battery tender had turned off for the moment. I just wanted to double check the baseline measurement before I took a new one. Connecting both leads of the multimeter to their respective sockets also got that same 12.6V reading.
No, I think what happened was just that the battery tender had turned off for the moment. I just wanted to double check the baseline measurement before I took a new one. Connecting both leads of the multimeter to their respective sockets also got that same 12.6V reading.
Nice job with the voltage tests!
Your voltage tests are finding no JBE faults in the K96 relay circuit, meaning that the reason for the fuel pump not running is either (1) a bad K96 relay or (2) a fault in the fuel pump circuit downstream of the K96 relay.
I recommend that you start by checking for a fault in the fuel pump circuit by connecting the terminal 30 K96 socket to the terminal 87 K96 socket with a jumper wire. See Operating Electrical Fuel Pump for Tests below. With the two sockets jumped, do you hear the fuel pump under the rear seats run?
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Nov 9, 2025 at 08:27 PM.
Nope. It still doesn't connect even if I manually input it. It says something like "failed to decode VIN" when I type it in
You mentioned measuring battery voltage at OBDII connector pin 16. The next step is to test OBDII connector ground pins 4 & 5. This can be done by individually measuring voltage between pin 16 & pin 4 and pin 16 & pin 5. Do you read battery voltage for both tests?
If the ground pins test fine, I recommend you connect a different scan tool to you car to see whether your scan tool is not working.
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Nov 9, 2025 at 05:30 PM.
I recommend that you start by checking for a fault in the fuel pump circuit by connecting the terminal 30 K96 socket to the terminal 87 K96 with a jumper wire. See Operating Electrical Fuel Pump for Tests below. With the socket pin jumped, do you hear the fuel pump under the rear seats run?
I connected it with a jumper wire and I heard a whirring noise, but it sounded like it was coming more from the firewall area. I put my ear next to the LPFP and didn't hear anything from that specifically
If you are unsure whether the LPFP ran or not, repeat the test.
With that said, you preliminarily may soon be diagnosing where the problem lies in the downstream fuel pump circuit. If so, there may never have been a JBE issue, and the fault has always been in the downstream fuel pump circuit.
I also just tested the OBDII and the pins are all receiving power as they should be. I tried a different generic scan tool and it also couldn't find my VIN. The only reason I hesitate about the new PCB being the problem is that my old PCB was getting the exact same errors and "unfindable" VIN after I fixed it
