I popped the backseats up to listen and didn't hear it running. Don't know if that's the official way to check, but I remember it being pretty loud when it was working

 

Sounds like the repair was not successful. I'd love to repair the circuit board for you. If you can't find a replacement send it to me and I'll get it working. I am a retired electrical engineering technician.

 

You should rule out other possibilities for the LPFP not running.

1. Start by using a multimeter to check whether installed JBE 20A fuse F46 reads battery voltage on both of the fuse test tabs with the key ON.
2. If F46 shows battery voltage on both tabs, remove the K96 fuel pump relay, and use a multimeter to check whether relay socket terminal 30 (labeled A in service manual picture) reads battery voltage with key ON. If terminal 30 socket lacks voltage, your JBE repair did not work.
3. The K96 relay has 4 sockets. In the picture, the terminal 30 and terminal 87 (fuel pump wire) sockets are labelled A and B, respectively. The other two relay sockets are unlabeled. With the key ON, one unlabelled socket (F46 voltage) should read battery voltage and the other unlabelled socket (DME ground control) should read 0 volts. If you use a wire to jump the F46 voltage socket to the terminal 87 socket (fuel pump wire), the fuel pump should run.

 

Thanks for the offer floodhound, and thanks for the diagram Maybe, maybe not! However, I was able to find a replacement board (I got extremely lucky I know), so I'd rather spend the roughly $100 and just install a working part than have to deal with even more troubleshooting. If it still isn't working even after I reprogram the unit, I'll look at the LPFP or maybe even just send my new board to someone else to do it. Should've gotten a 2006 R53 or an F56 lol...

 

 

Let us know how this works out. I was told that each PCB was unique and could not be swapped out. Maybe it's only "one" out of the two.

 

Yeah, for sure. I really hope that's not the case because my old PCB basically disintegrated where the pins connect the two boards the second time I took it apart. If this new board doesn't fix it, I guess I'm either K-swapping or going to a different car 🥴

 

Almost any circuit board issue can be repaired. Believe me I've seen it all and repaired all kinds. In any event a k-swap would be killer.

 

Maybe Will would be receptive to sending you the JBE for repair, after which you guys could sell the repaired JBE and split the money? If so, it would be great to video your repair and then post it in this thread to share with the community.

 

Well, I just got the new board in, made sure everything between the two was identical (numbers are the same, fuses came in the same config), and still nothing. I tried connecting my Foxwell scan tool to the car and it couldn't find the car either (even when I manually typed in the VIN). Still getting all the same errors as before like with the old board, so I'm not sure where to go from here. I can guarantee it's the board and the board alone because it's the only thing I've changed since the car won't start - and a rule in IT is that if something gets messed up, it's almost always whatever you changed last. I'm fearing this is the end of line for my Mini...

 

Sorry to hear you are still having problems.

Did you try using your scan tool to code the new JBE?

 

Yeah, I tried doing that before I even let it crank again. It couldn't even get a read on the VIN

 

You replaced one of the two JBE boards, presumably the board with the terminal 30G relay. And prior to coupling the replacement JBE board with the other original JBE board, your scan tool was able to recognize your car and VIN. Is this correct?

 

Before taking my JBE out in the first place over a week ago, my Foxwell read my VIN just fine. When I repaired my JBE the first time, I put it back in and then it wouldn't recognize the car. I then took it out to basically do the job a second time just to make sure all of the joints were good, but still having the same problem after that attempt as well. And now with the new board, I'm still having that problem. So, in short, I've been having this problem every time since starting this repair.

Edit: I should mention now that I reread your question - I replaced the whole unit. I got a new (to me) case, fuses, and boards. From what I've read online, people have swapped out the whole unit with success (of course they still have to code it though)

 

Got it.

The original board that you retained has the fuses and the K96 relay, whereas the new board has the terminal 30G relay that you tried to repair in the old board. Correct?

Just my 2 cents -- If I were in your position, I would be inclined to check all the JBE fuses (battery voltage on both tabs) and to check whether K96 relay socket A (terminal 30) has battery voltage, as I mentioned in an earlier post.

 

I took the new unit out of the box, made sure it matched up with the old one and just put it straight into the car. I haven't cracked into the case of the new unit at all.

 

My bad. I thought you bought only one of the two boards. But it now seems that you bought both boards as a complete unit. Did the new JBE come with new fuses and the K96 relay or are you using the old ones?

 

Yeah, it's a full complete unit. Got its own fuses in the same places and everything as it should be

 

Got it. The first thing I would do is check whether K96 relay socket A (terminal 30) has battery voltage.

I would also check whether any fuses under the hood are blown, for example fuses that supply voltage to the DME.

As your scan tool can't connect with the car, you may want to check whether OBD socket pin 16 has battery voltage and pins 4 and 5 are grounded.

 

Alright, I've got a multimeter coming in tomorrow morning. I checked all of my fuses and they're all fine. I'll check that OBD socket tomorrow as well

 

Do you have a diagram for how to hook up a multimeter to that OBD supply like you put above with the K96? I've never used a multimeter before I don't want to make things worse

 

I'm a little confused. Are you still having issues? If you are and have the old PCB out try taking some photos and posting them. I'll look them over.

 

Fantastic. A digital multimeter is among the most powerful tools you can have to troubleshoot car problems. Note that a good multimeter doesn't have to be expensive.

I presume that you're referring to visual inspection of the JBE fuses here^? Fuse visual inspection only tells you half the story about fuses.

I'll create a diagram for you and post it.
I'll also create and post a diagram on how to properly voltage test fuses.

 

Yes, I just visually inspected them. They all appeared fine.

Thanks! That would help so much.

Also, if it helps, the warning lights I get when I turn the car on are the TPMS light, power steering, and I believe the ABS IIRC. Oh and I'm getting the light that looks like a Mini on a lift, whatever that means 🤷

 

I'll start by showing you how to voltage test fuses while they are installed in the fuse box.

Fuses have two metal test tabs. With your meter set to read DC voltage, touch the red meter probe to one test tab of the fuse and the black probe to a good grounding point like the negative/ground battery post. The images below show results for a good fuse (both tabs read battery voltage) and a bad fuse (one tab shows battery voltage and the other tab shows no voltage). Note that the black meter probe touching the negative battery post or a good body ground is not shown in the images.

However, there is one possible outcome not shown in the images: Both tabs read no voltage. This important outcome means that the fuse does not receive voltage from the battery or from an upstream fuse box. This could just mean that the key needs to be turned on for the fuse to get voltage. Try that first. If the fuse still gets no voltage, then a higher amperage fuse upstream in the circuit may be blown or not getting voltage from the battery.

I recommend that you test all of the JBE fuses using this approach.