I have a 2007 MCS and I have a slight noise at startup that goes away within a few seconds. I looked at the top of the tensioner and it has a dimple in it. Is that the up to date tensioner? The chain was changed at 131k miles and now has 147k. I bought a new tensioner and it doesn’t have the dimple in the top. I also bought a timing chain measuring tool, to possible check the chain. Is it as simple as some people say to check? Pull it out and put the tool in and do the steps? Also is it as simple to change the tensioner by just swapping them out? Thank you for any knowledge you can throw my way!

 

If you think the start-up noise fits with a loose timing chain, then remove the valve cover and check whether the timing chain is tight or loose.

 

If you have an ultra low range
torque wrench, set it for 0.6 Nm
(5 in-lb) and set the tensioner
with that then tighten the set
bolt.
if the chain and guides were done
16K ago they should be fine for
at least another 45K.

 

I’m was reading and people are saying you have to lock the fly wheel and cams.

 

You only have to lock the flywheel and cams if you plan on removing the cam or crank bolts. You do not need to lock anything if you are only removing and replacing the tensioner.

 

Is the tensioner with the dimple in it the newest revision tensioner? I heard it wasn’t.

 

You need to check the free length. The newest is 90mm or something. You’ll have to check the parts diagrams.

 

The latest version by BMW/MINI has the part number 11317607551 (since 2014). The one which was fitted by BMW Germany in 2016 had the number engraved on the side (see picture, apologies for the bad quality). However, it could well be that external characteristics (including the outside surface and/or the engraved part number) change during production runs.

This assuming original BMW/MINI parts, sold by their authorized dealers. Anything bought elsewhere, who knows? Nor would external characteristics matter or be useable in infering long term performance characteristics and reliability.

Do you know for sure that only the latest version by BMW (i.e. none of the previous ones) have a length of 90mm?

 

According to the parts diagrams, the latest tensioner part number is 11317607551, which is 82mm

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4545

 

Yes. But is it the only version with that length (or "90mm or something")?

 

Just make sure you have the latest version, and you will be good.

 

Yes. However, your post above:

makes readers assume that the only criteria to be checked in order to "be good" is the length of the tensioner.

So again: Do you know for sure that "90mm or something" (or 82mm as you corrected yourself) is indeed an infallible and exclusive (!) characteristic of the newest version? If so, kindly share the source of this information.

If not, please consider editing your post above so users are not misled.

Thank you.

 

The free length did change over time. Sorry, yes, I mis-typed the free length without checking my sources. ALWAYS check the parts listings to make sure you get the correct and most current part. I am not going to edit my post.

I would like to add that if you are having timing chain noise, changing the tensioner is not going to fix it - you will need to at least remove the cam cover and check the condition of the chain guides. If you have mileage on the engine and want to maintain the timing parts, changing the tensioner might help prolong the system.

 

Old part = 78mm
Current part = 82mm

 

Yep new one is 82mm. I think the spring changed internally also at one point. Old fix kits were 78mm. Thats what was done for the USA market. Overseas they can sometimes change things up due to recalls and part number changes. Govt mandates due to local recalls.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/11317607551/

Also most older ones have a little hole on the hex head. I think in the repair and fix back in the day you looked for the little hole and then changed it out per the SIM in the USA for the early 2007-2009 recall.

 

My issue with your previous post is not whether 82, 90 or any other amount of mm is correct. What I tried pointing to is that it lets unknowledgeable readers infer that the only thing they need to check is the length of the tensioner and (if fitting) be done with it. Considering that there are at least 6 different versions of the original BMW/MINI part alone and who knows how many more from various other sources over a timespan of near two decades, I feel that such a blanket statement is misleading. Indeed, in regard to the op we do not even know when and where the new tensioner was sourced from (BMW/MINI or elsewhere).

Your later statement on the other hand (that users should always look for accureate part numbers to identify correct and current parts) is good advise.

PS.: Regarding prolonging the timing system of an engine with high mileage by fitting a new tensioner I would like to add that while it:
a. may (depending on the states of the chain, the sprocket teeth and the guides) reduce the risk of the chain slipping and
b. may also reduce any potential timing chain noise,
it is (imho) not good advise to (just) change the tensioner. The reason is that while the chain may already be worn to a level which would necessitate replacing it, the sprocket teeth may not yet have reached such a point. Continuing to run a worn chain will cause the sprocket teeth to wear faster than with an unworn chain. It is better (and in the case of VANOS gears much cheaper) to replace the chain (along with the guides and the tensioner) while the sprockets/VANOS are still good rather than try to run down the chain to its death and then having to replace the sprockets/VANOS, too.

Unless the tensioner itself is worn or broken, renewing it will only reduce symptoms. It will not mend any of their underlying causes.

 

There is an official procedure to
see if the chain has stretched
enough to warrant replacement
of the chains/guides rather than
just the tensioner.

See points 9-13 here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...954d1259328579

 

There is also a newer version in better quality right here on NAM:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...261d1335838959

I myself have and use the following tool:
https://www.xxl-automotive.de/spezia...47-b46-b48-b58

I prefer it to the original BMW method (I also have the BMW tool).

 

SIM https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...y/11318623601/ comes with the older tensioner.

 

Why on earth would anyone go to the trouble of replacing the timing chain and install the original, old style tensioner? I don't understand the logic.

 

Yep that was an old sku for a Fix, it was super cheap and then recent MINI jacked the price way up. I would have gone with the newer sku, but i guess people liked the cost of the old kit?