My front sway bar bushings need to be replaced (2009 R56 Base).

Doesn't look like there is any way around dropping the subframe with all the attendant dismantling of the bumper, steering exhaust, etc? Looks like I can remove one of the bushing bracket bolts and loosen the other. So maybe carefully bend the brackets out of the way and replace the bushings?

 

Didn't look like it to me either, but if you find a way to do it please report back.

 

Some folks have replaced them by just lowering the subframe slightly. Not sure how they were able to do that... I had to really torque the bolts to get them loose, and I had the subframe completely out.

 

I was able to lower (more like tilt) the subframe by removing rear bolts only.
I followed this youtube clip and worked for me.

 

Just did this job yesterday on my '12 MCS without having to lower the subframe. I'm not gonna say it's easy, but it's do-able. Don't try this unless you've got a lot of good tools and are reasonably confident in your wrenching ability.

What I did was remove the front bolt on each sway bar bushing bracket, bend the bracket upwards about an inch, and then R&R the bushings by sliding them out and in. Start by putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing both front wheels, and disconnecting the sway bar from the top of the drop links.

The right side bracket bolt is easier because you can get a straight shot by removing the airbox. I used an impact wrench with a 24" extension bar and a universal joint from above to get it out and reinstall it. You can't do this on the left side, though, because the steering box was in the way. For that one there really isn't room to get a ratchet on it from the wheel well, but I have a really long 18mm flex head wrench that worked well (Gearwrench brand, it's like 18" long). I'm probably lucky that I'm in California and the bolt wasn't too corroded in place, so if you're somewhere where they salt the roads this may not work. Once the front bolt is out you can just use a big screwdriver or pry bar to pry the front of the bracket up about 1-1.5", it's not very hard to do.

The hard part is the bushing R&R, because they're a very tight fit. I got the old rubber ones out by hosing them down with silicone spray (don't use oil, you don't want that around the bushings) and then using various hooks, screwdrivers, pry bars, etc. to push them out towards the outside of the car. Since you're replacing them anyway you can always go to town on them with a knife or torch or something as well.

The real bear was installing the new bushings. In my case I went with Powerflex poly bushings. I greased up the insides with the included silicone grease and got as much of the grease on the bar as I could. then I popped them on the bar just outside of the clamp and used a variety of tools and pry bars and swearing to press them into place. The right side wasn't too bad as I was able to get to it form the top with a long pry bar and push it into place towards the center of the car. On the left side I was working from the wheel well and it took me a solid hour of trying different "press the #!%# thing in" methods but I eventually got it. This was overall the longest and most annoying part of the job. Note if you're using OEM rubber bushings you don't want to lubricate them, but I'd definitely recommend the poly because they work better and will likely last longer.

Once each bushing was under the bracket I bent the bracket back downwards until I could get the bolt in the hole and engaged with the threads, then tightened everything into place. Spec is 165 Nm, on the right side I was able to use a torque wrench from the top with the aforementioned extension bar, on the left side I just got it to gud-n-tite spec with the long wrench (maybe if I had an 1/2" drive M18 crows foot I could've used that with my torque wrench but I did not).

The good news is the old bushings were definitely shot, and the new ones fixed my clunking over bumps issue. Overall it took me about four hours, and while it wasn't easy if I had to do it again I'd probably still do it this way versus messing with the subframe. Again, I'm no professional but I'm a reasonably good wrench and have a wide variety of tools, so I'd only suggest trying this method if you're confident in your abilities.

 

Oh. interesting... Thanks for the info.
Either way. mess with subframe or not, it's not a job you want to do twice. :D

 

Did you guys use VAICO bushing #V20-9716 for this?

 

Im chasing a crazy loud squeaking noise. This R56 has had so many new suspension parts on it. EVERYTHING in the last 30k miles is new, sometimes multiple swaps.

Im at 170k miles. Checked all bolts and bushing and nothing is cracked or loose. I've gone through at least 4 control arms for broken inner ball joints and multiple sway bar endlinks, but thats not the case now. DC roads are bad. These runflats are a nightmare but my girl wants to keep them.

Anyway I pried on everything with a long breaker bar and checked bolts, then I disconnected the front sway bar end links and drove around and the noises mostly but did not totally go away. WEIRD.

My mistake was using MOOG bushings last time me thinks. Here is the bar making noise with the end links disconnected...maybe this is the cause?

 

I'd say you found your squeak... You could try to get some silicone grease in there, that will help.

 

ya but how?....need to drop the subframe to get brackets loose enough to get any grease in their...might as well put in new VAICOs.

 

If you're going to just pull them, I would upgrade to urethane. I used the SuperPro in my Clubman, and they stayed pretty quiet for at least a few years. Make sure whatever you go with that you lube them up real good before buttoning up.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-superpro...227622.5k~spr/

 

Only PDiddy has more lube than me.

 

Manual says not to use lube in inside face.



This is the critical tool to getting the worst part of this job done...the bolts holding the bushings in place.



The VAICOs

 

My video on swapping out the lower control arms might help you visualize what has to happen (I did it with the subframe on the floor during a clutch swap). FWIW, I didn't even bother swapping out the sway bar bushings, which were fine... but would HATE to do that job with the subframe in place (it was a genuine struggle to get the bolts loose with them being out in the open)...

 

Ive done this twice already...including just yesterday.

 

Sorry 3 times...first time, when I dropped the subframe to replace the motor.

 

I won't say it was easy but it was do-able. definitely easier than dropping the subframe. See my post above.

 

I'm currently in the middle of this job on my 2011 R55s.

I attempted tonot drop the entire subframe - just removed everything in the rear, and left the 4 bolts that connect to the front bumper in place. Result? The back of the frame dropped by about an inch....nowhere near enough room to do what I needed to do, IMO. Sorry, but I've been working on cars long enough to say the hell with attempting to 'save' the effort of not removing stuff to make your access unimpeded. Buying seven different tools to avoid dropping the subframe isn't my idea of making the job easier.

When the subframe wouldn't lower enough to allow access to the control arm bushings - which was the real replacement item I was going after - I just said the hell with it, and spent the 30 minutes to remove the bumper cover and bumper. Subframe out, easy to address everything and clean up the rust while I'm here as well.

Besides, it's good practice for the transmission removal which will undoubtedly happen at some point.

 

There is room to do this without dropping the subframe with steering rack.

Ya just need a long (18 inch) swivel head, ratcheting 18mm, as per my pic.

 

I read your entire post, including the section where you admit to spending an hour accessing a single bolt. In addition to mangling the bushing brackets for removal. In addition, this wouldn't allow me to REMOVE the rear control arm bushing brackets, which is part of what I'm servicing here.

Thanks though.

 

Not with the 18mm long ratchet...was super fast.

 

Bully for you.

I remain unconvinced that the entire control arm assembly, with the rear bushing bracket, can be removed and replaced without lowering the subframe. As I stated in my post, I disconnected everything except the 4 front bolts and the rear of the frame only dropped by an inch.

I suppose that if you have a huge collection of assorted tools and are trying to 'save' yourself the time to do this job properly, then sure....you can replace the stabilizer bar bushings without dropping the subframe. Of course, I'm now curious why you've had to do this more than once - everything I've read indicates that urethane bushings would last 3X longer than the stock rubber.....seems that using those would have saved at least one of these replacements.

 

I was chasing a noise which I assumed was the MOOG sway bar bushings.

They made some strange noises from the day I installed. I changed them with VAICOs and the creaking noise persists so clearly it was not the cause.

If you want to drop the subframe bro, do it. For those only changing the bushings its not necessary if you have the correct tools.

 

IMO, the necessity to distort the bushing brackets to facilitate removal voids your position of being able to do the job 'with the correct tools'...

But you do you, bro. Happy motoring.

 

Dont need to distort them, just lift them up. Plenty of space to move them and even remove the entire sway bar.