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Recently I have removed the oil filter housing cleaned & resealed reinstalled.
this was a first venture into long delayed maintenance.
but I really did not know where the alternator was & when I was removing one f the cat heat shields it touched the alternator.
there was one spark, was this enough to do damage?
best I can figure the best way to test the alternator is run the engine, reinstall the cat & associated heat shields.
& best way to replace alternator is with the cat out as it is now.
also appears some more oil leakage on right side of engine, see photo.
behind alternator & above between pulleys.
What would this be from?
I've grounded out a few alternator B+ terminals in my day because I didn't disconnect the battery when I was working. I've never damaged one, but with my current car (152K miles) I replaced the alternator because it was soaked with oil and yuck. You can always pull the alternator and have it bench checked at your local auto parts store. Personally, I'd be more worried about the DME (engine computer).
The oil leak you have in the picture is from the crankshaft hub seal. That would be the front of the engine. Be cautious here because the Bently service manual is wrong; the cranksahft hub seal is a PTFE seal. It must be installed DRY and if must sit for 4 hours before you rotate the engine. If you don't follow those two steps, the new seal will leak right out of the gate. Oh yea! Don't loosen the center bolt on the crankshaft hub either or you will screw up the timing.
Yes these cars are quite electrical and it is all connected.
that seal I was figuring was not going to be simple.
I will look see what Bentley says on the front of engine (right side assuming)
the Bentley manual does not even mention the oil filter housing that I can find?
Seal is easy to install, dont be worried about that, you will need the special tool, or a custom made one using some pvc. I did mine during my timing chain replacement. I installed dry, but i did hand rotate the engine within 4 hours after that. I had not read anywhere to not rotate for 4 hours. No leaks.
If the seal is easy where do I look in Bentley’s?
if you were doing timing chain replacement you were probably there already.
I will need to remove what ever is in front of the seal assuming?
If the seal is easy where do I look in Bentley’s?
if you were doing timing chain replacement you were probably there already.
I will need to remove what ever is in front of the seal assuming?
Page 119-8 in bentley, you need to remove the crank pulley. You can do it without locking the timing at all if you make sure to not rotate the crank backwards. The special tool for install is to get the seal just deep enough into the channel. There is no lip or stop. I used a socket to gently tap in all sides about 1mm into the channel, i didnt use the special tool.
It is probably easier if you remove the right side engine mounts support the engine from the oil pan and drop it down a little bit for more accesibility. Although that requires removal of hood latches, radiator support, cold side charge pipe, etc...
The front of the car is apart mostly I need to refill coolant & oil first.
would mini sell that tool?
I did a rms on a motorcycle last year having the right tool does help, to do that had to make sure engine was not moved.
I will read & look at it for a while until I see where to start, thnx.
Yes you can buy the tool. I think Baum or cta makes it. I read somewhere people were using the correct diameter pvc with a cap on it for a nice diy tool. You just want to apply even force as you lightly smack the seal perimeter into place. I didn’t use a special tool as I mentioned. But looking back or if I do it again I will get the right tool. Having the right tool makes all the difference.
Looks like the serpentine belt comes off as the pulley amongst everything else.
the Alternator should be checked but the air conditioning piping will see as car is not going anywhere to contain the gas if it has to be separated?
To get to front crank seal.
Bentley has suggested to remove the air conditioning line for access, maybe not necessary.
the serpentine belt would need removal for access as the pulley looks like needs to move.
but I am not there yet.
the alternator I was going to get checked anyways so that will be first.
Not necessary, but i removed the top engine mounts and lowered the engine on a jack a little bit for my timing chain job. Yes belt and crank pulley will need to be removed.
I got the air intake off that side it is making more sense I think.
one step at a time.
& a trip to the mini parts shop.
I think the pulley will have to be off to see if there is enough clearance.
if the top engine mount is removed? What about the axle shaft below?
If you removed the intake charge pipe and the engine mounts make sure you have a jack on a 2x4 spread across the oil pan so the engine is supported. After that you can lower it down enough to do the work. Shouldn’t be lowered to the point where anything gets damaged, like the axle. The engine will want to fall forward towards the radiator due to the other mounts that are still in place
That sounds real tricky balance as appears these cars have two engine mounts?
I was wondering about the axle how much it can be lowered, without damaging?
that will be sometime next week depending how things go.
parts tools?
3 mounts, top left, top right, and bottom. That right side axle barely moves no matter how far you drop the right side That axle is going into the transmission on the left side which has a mount so it is not dropping.
Assuming this is the Pulley with crank seal under it.
Bentley lists 119601, 119602 & 119603 required for install.
both Baum & Turner just list 119600 to install that seal.
who is correct before I order tools?
this appears to be the seal, 11117568263 $12.02
Last edited by Seaswood; Apr 22, 2023 at 02:02 PM.
Those bolts are quite stiff as they probably have been there since 09, can I use heat on the crank pulley just the bolt heads?
I have a strap wrench on it but may need one with a longer handle.
Those bolts are quite stiff as they probably have been there since 09, can I use heat on the crank pulley just the bolt heads?
I have a strap wrench on it but may need one with a longer handle.
the crank pulley bolts? If the cams and the flywheel are locked with the correct tools I would use an impact to back em out. You replacing the bolts? I believe they are E10..?
if that doesn’t work I’m not sure what a strap wrench is but idk if I’d use heat. Too each their own
