Hey guys! I've been dealing with this problem with my N14 engine where the car starts to stutter at around 2K RPM. My first thought was that it could be a bad coil, because they have some rust on their side (They are Delphi). If you accelerate gently, the stuttering doesn't happen, but if you push the pedal deeper and you hear it's building up quite some boost, it starts to cut out. It doesn't accelerate more, it just stays at around 3k RPM and it starts popping. I bought one coil just to swap them around, maybe it have gotten a little bit better but I don't know.
I connected my Carly to the car just to see the live data of the rail pressure. It built up until like 80 bars, and then when it starts popping it's around 10 bars in the rail. It's pretty weird because it starts up fine even when cold, no codes, no knocking, no hesitating when it's "off" boost.
I don't think I can really trust a bluetooth OBD scanner. It might be giving me false numbers on the pressure.

 

How many miles on the car and how old are the plugs?

 

60k miles, plugs have been replaced 1 months ago. The car was bogging like hell, then started running on 3 cylinders. We changed it then it was good, at least it have gotten better.

 

@Kispeti

When was the fuel filter replaced? It can be partially clogged not letting full pressure to the injectors.

 

OTOH the bluetooth OBD scanner could be giving you the correct numbers. Generally bluetooth doesn't corrupt/change data. If it does the link just doesn't work. So while the numbers come over the air via bluetooth I think they are trustworthy.

Low fuel pressure sure is consistent with the behavior you describe.

 

The car is a Peugeot 207. I saw a guy on youtube changing the fuel filter, but there is none on mine, there is only a black box on the rear right side of the car.
As for the connection of the OBD. Is there any difference between the WI-FI and the Bluetooth connection? I mean I have monitored with a Wi-Fi OBD scanner before. The phone was in my lap while driving and sometimes the numbers were jumping on the very top of the chart.
Today I started the car and there was a very disgusting knocking noise on the timing side of the engine. I was wondering if I should sell it, or rebuild it. I calculated everything, if everything is right it would cost me around $1000 in parts if the HPFP is alright.
The turbo was rebuilt at 40k miles, but there is a lot of oil in the intercooler hoses which was cleaned right before I started using the car. I know some oil is normal but there was like 2ml of oil sitting in each crease of the intercooler piping.