Time to do the chain service. 2009 MCS.

Was a little shocked at the price increase, even independent shops. Over $2000.

So, possible another project, unless someone knows a shop local to south Orlando that is more reasonably priced.

 

@techman1
How come you’re doing a timing chain service? Did the timing chain break or stretch? Did the chain guide physically break? Usually timing chain service is needed if you’re experiencing major issues. Haven’t heard any issues from your post.

 

Its an N14, if he's up in mileage I wouldnt chance eating valves when a guide breaks. My N18 had no records of a chain service at 130k miles, just did it myself a couple weeks ago for peace of mind to not die of invoice shock on labor

 

I would like to reiterate PickleAhoys post. Once you have major timing chain issues the chance for catastrophe is much higher. I am at 82.5k miles on my 2013 R56 N18 and it has never had a timing chain replacement. I am about to do it myself as well for peace of mind.

 

I know CakeEater has the N18, but my N14 went out at 80k. Nothing physically happened which I'm thankful for. But kept having half power reduced, misfires, and finally it just lost compression like it skipped a tooth or two. Would run just for about 10 seconds and then die. When I took it out and compared to the new one, it was noticeably stretched out I couldn't believe it. So yeah, I would do it for peace of mind for sure

 

Yep, peace of mind is a good reason, but.... "The Signs" are starting to appear.

Sudden rattle, but did not seem loud. misfire on all cylinders, and a few codes related to timing.

Also code P1338.

Just really did not want another project, but I cannot pay $2000 for a job which I think is 8 hr flat rate.
Just guessing on the hours based on other repairs I have done on the car, and the videos detailing the work.

 

PickleAhoy, curious how things looked on yours. Did you compare the new and old chain to see how much stretch there was?

I haven't dug into it since the N18 are not known for it, I am assuming they changed the guides, the N14's were plastic and known to wear/break. My guess is these were replaced with something else in the N18.

 

The guides are still plastic, I didnt bother measuring the chains against each other, I was just happy the whole cassette came out in one piece still. The cams were not far off each other when I took the valve cover off and I didnt have any misfires yet so if it was the OEM set it had done its job for such a high mileage N18. The worst part of the job for me had nothing to do with the work on the top end, it was getting the dumb hoses off the crossover cold side of the intercooler and specially the one on the throttle body to clear space and remove the tensioner (god they were a pain in the *** glued on)

 

Thank you for the reply and picture.

 

 

Success!

Plastic rails were intact, nothing missing.
Definitely needed it, as the plastic was brittle and easily broke off pieces.
The chain may have jumped a tooth, as the crank lock pin and the cam lock were a little off.

The cam lock set was purchased for approximately $60 and other than needing the modification, worked perfect.

Cranked up, ran smooth, unfortunately the old tension wheel needed replacement also.
When pulling on the strap to relieve tension, it broke!!

 

Congrats!!! Its a super fulfilling job considering how much you save in labor costs. Onward to another 100k miles!

 

Tension wheel arrived, all buttoned up.
30 minute drive, smooth idle, just a pleasure to drive now.

6 months ago I had done a transmission fluid and filter service. Smooth shifting returned.

Pleased with the car now, a pleasure to drive.

Next on the list is the hvac screen, missing pixels. Was a few 3 years ago. Now all have faded over time.

 

Thank you for everyone putting in their 2 cents

i just did my timing chain for good will at 82k miles.

from the beginning, what a pain in the **** the intercooler to intake take hose is to get off. Probs the worst part of the job.

while I did the timing chain I decided to put in a new water pump, water pump pulley, friction wheel, crank pull, serpentine belt, lower engine mount, oil change, coolant change.

overall the job went smooth, I have yet to start the car though. It’s still on jack stands as I await the JMTC Ici pipe. I hated struggling with the oem intercooler to intake pipe I decided to replace it. I can’t imagine putting in a JMTC pipe will be much easier but at least the tubes won’t be glued down like the oem tube. What a dumb thing to do. I checked the stretch on my chain, my car is at 83k miles 2013 mini cooper s, and it had virtually no stretch. None that my naked eye could see. So it looks like the job was not really needed other than getting an updated tensioner. I’ll definitely feel better though for the next 80k miles. Struggles of the job were getting the crank lock pin to fit, removing the ici pipe, tightening the new water pump pulleys bolts, cracking the crank bolt and torquing the new crank bolt down. All else was pretty easy with the right tools. I have to say, I am pretty disappointed in shwabens timing tool and block holder tool. The middle hole on the camshaft locking tool did not line up so I had to drill another hole. And the flywheel locking pin did not fit into my clutch masters aluminum flywheel right away I had to shave down the pin a little bit to get it to fit and it was a tight fit. I am just waiting on the JMTC ici pipe and then I’ll be able to finish up the job. Thanks to everyone on this forum for your knowledge. Also thank you to FCP euro as they have a very nice guide on YouTube for an N14 timing job. N18 is not much different if helped tremendously. If anyone has any questions about everything I have completed in the last week feel free to ask. I didn’t take enough pics but here is what I got.

New water pump, wp pulley, craven crank pulley, craven crank lock tool, ecs Kevlar reinforced belt, friction wheel

New lower engine mount with power flex inserts. Downgrading from a torque solutions black mount. Too much nvh

Had to drill another hole in the middle of the cam lock tool. Come on Schwaben get your stuff right

New timing chain installed

Disassembled ready for new timing chain and others

 

Agree on the intercooler pipe, and torqueing the crank bolt that last few degrees to 180!

 

What is the lead time on the intercooler pipe from JMTC?

 

It was in stock at ECS when i bought it. Got it in 3 days from ohio to fl.

 

I am a little biased (being from Ohio) but all my dealing with ECS have been top notch!

 

This is unbelievable!
(btw: isn't "Schwaben" an ECS brand? If so, I'd be interested to know whether they design and produce any of their products themselves)

 

I believe ECS bought Schwaben, i am not sure though. @ECSTuning

Either way it was a little disappointing. The Block holder tool also did not line up with the engine mount hole on the body, so i had it screwed into the alternator but the other end just rested on the body. It worked but its just like, come on! I will say i had no problem with their fuel line disconnect tool, or their serpentine belt tools

 

I bought a mega cheap Amazon cam fixing tool for 60 bucks and it worked no prob, all holes fit fine. Its a gamble with other brands vs the OEM tool, but modifying tool steel sounds like a nightmare and seems asinine for a Schwaben branded tool.

 

Couldn't agree more, i'm appalled that my Schwaben branded cam lock tool didn't work out the box and you found an amazon one that did!! Egregious

 

Amazon tool also. Lined up.

 

Hello,

Just saw this.

Yes its our brand, if you contact us we can send you a new one or credit, please contact our CS team. We had a bad batch from the supplier and they were isolated (mixed stock). We have new ones on order and the old ones that were wrong were removed already.

First time we had this issue with that supplier. I have timing tool for my N14 and W10 engine and really like them. The crank holder tool and seal tool I have also. The schwaben scan tool has saved me so much money over the years.