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I would appreciate some clarification on the timing of these cars. I am apparently bumfusseled on how to get this correct!
Trying to do a good service on a higher milage car.. head gasket, timing chain supercharger service and so forth and set the chain up with the marks as the instructions say and watching youtube
You rotate the engine one full cycle and the marks are not correct. Im sure I just not thinking correctly and I searched for a tread covering this with no luck. surely others have had this problem before and there is a really good thread on it. Can someone tell me or point me in the right direction. Trying to get this car back on the road!
Watch the pistons. When they're TDC your fine.
when I did my head n cam idk if factory timing was abit off or my chain wasn't put on rite from get go nut my timing marks NEVER lined up exactly when my pistons were TDC. Maybe your is the same way idk but I just made sure pistons were TDC and threw in new head and cam and just reset the timing accordingly
I'm not sure of the question. I have timed many engines and I will admit although I removed my own W11 cylinder head, pistons and block, I did not put it back together because I decided to replace the long block instead.
The timing marks on the timing chain usually only matter when putting the chain on and setting tension. Once I have all the timing marks (chain to gears) correct, I will turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions and stop the crankshaft in the timing position. The engine is timed correctly if the timing mark on the crankshaft gear is in the correct spot and the mark on the camshaft(s) is/are in the correct spot. The marks on the chain, on most engines, will not correspond with the marks on the camshaft(s) or crank once you turn the crank. That is of no consequence.
Some people will count the chain links between the marks on the camshafts (on DOHC heads) and the number of chain links between the mark on the camshaft and the mark on the crankshaft so that after rotating the engine they can verify the number of links is the same.
I guess I have it right. My first mini timing chain replacement so I guess it is messing with my head.I hope that I have it correct. Set the crank at TDC and lined up the chain marks.
the chain not trying on the marks as it rotates seems unusual to me but maybe normal these days. Thanks for the responses!
Got it moving along. getting the car back together and cleaning cleaning cleaning! Hopefully make some progress tomorrow.
I know some car cam belts where designed to go on using the marks but each engine rotation the marks moved a tooth out, something to do with reducing wear by having different parts contacting constantly.
This is normal that marks do not match after a single rotation of the engine. You need to make A LOT of rotations to match the marks again, this is how the engine is designed. The exact number of rotations could be calculated knowing the number of links and the number of gears' teeth.
As long as the marks were set correctly at the beginning, and pistons do not hit valves (i.e. the engine doesn't seize) while gently rotating it by hand several revolutions - you are good.
Well I need to post some pics just haven't had time. Got the car all back together and started the drive and for some reason the situation that I thought was timing turns out to be limp mode.
It seems to have something to do with DSC but Im not sure because I way behind on the software learning curve.
I clear it the codes. Car runs fine for a few minutes and then I get the lack of power symbol.
I have thrown new parts at it. both map sensors and throttle control servo O2 sensors with no results.
I have done a search on the codes and what my reader is putting out is a SS030382 code.
What does that mean. The list of code that are up are P codes or U codes.
I have ordered some software from WMW but its on backorder and I am working on two different minis at the same time.
Its got me frustrated after many hours of work with no completion results.
Any help would be appreciated
You need a better reader. Maybe you can borrow one from a friend?
Diagnostic readers do not tell you what is wrong. That is a common misconception. It’s like a medical patient… you get symptoms, and you have to diagnose them. I don’t think it’s a good idea to just throw parts at it.
I would start by resetting any adaptations. I’m still a newbie at this engine though; my engine hasn’t started yet.
While waiting, you might want to check all the vacuum lines, including the very tiny one under the intercooler.
Get a creator c310+. Will read your codes correctly. I would get it before spending any more on parts.
Sounds like a very good beginner OBD tool for these cars. Since a 2004 is pretty old, a more sophisticated tool might not help much.
An example of what this tool can do:
These cars are notorious for a resistor failure inside the cooling fan shroud. What should happen is that when coolant temp hits 105C (221F), the cooling fan should come on at low speed. When the coolant temp hits 112C (234F), the fan should switch to high speed. When the resistor fails, the fan only comes on at 112C high speed.
Using this tool, you can view your coolant temp and tell whether the fan is engaging at the correct temperatures or not. Also useful for testing the repair once it’s done.
The tool is mostly a one-way tool, which is common at this price point. That means it will not actuate moat components. These cars don’t have EGR, for instance, but on cars with EGR, being able to actuate the EGR is helpful in troubleshooting on those cars. Things like that.
Since this poster is new to OBD anyway, a more expensive tool probably won’t benefit.
I was hoping to find some gen1 mini folks in central Alabama here. I am new to these cars as well. having to learn to rethink repairs with software which is new to me.
I ordered the INPA K+DCAN this morning. I am a newbie at this type of diagnosis and have no idea what that means but Im going swimming in the weeds and hopefully will figure it out.
Im think its a DSC problem knocking the car into limp mode at this point. At least its now my first thought at the symptom
Has anyone had this code?
When you get your inpa cable in. The software is going to be a pain to install. If you need help. Let me know. I can do an install for you if you need help.
I am hoping the back order on the Bavarian program that WMW recommended will come in soon but Im dead in the water on 2 cars at the moment and need to get them going.
Hoping someone will jump in that lives in Birmingham or Montgomery. I live almost right in the middle. It would be nice to know another mini nut like I have turned into.
Fooled with old air cooled Porsche for a long time and have a learning curve on how to repair the newer way
Going to try to make time to post better and learn by reading repairs others are doing.
I will be a lot better at my newer old cars after I get my head around the new way.
I also have another thread going on a Aisin transmission software problem.
The 2 new to me S cars seem to be way more problematic but I am will figure it out with all of the help I can get here.
They are way more fun to drive and will keep them forever.
The part number listed is the DSC pump but it was working fine before I did the head gasket on up.
Did the suspension bearings and removed the calipers for painting. Cleaned everything up bled the system and that was it.
This is normal that marks do not match after a single rotation of the engine. You need to make A LOT of rotations to match the marks again, this is how the engine is designed. The exact number of rotations could be calculated knowing the number of links and the number of gears' teeth.
As long as the marks were set correctly at the beginning, and pistons do not hit valves (i.e. the engine doesn't seize) while gently rotating it by hand several revolutions - you are good.
This simulator should give you a good idea of the number of rotations the sprockets make for the chain to travel one revolution. Using chain length 112, crankshaft Sprocket 23 teeth, camshaft sprocket 46 teeth ⚡Chain and Sprocket Calculator | RPM and Chain Speeds (blocklayer.com)
I know this an old post but with the 2 pictures of the 3 copper bright links at the top, is that the correct orientation to put the R53's back in timing? My marks and chains line up exactly like this but i'm not sure if **** the correct orientation for being on the correct time. I'm doing my first ever head gasket replacement on my r53 so any help would be much appreciated.
I know this an old post but with the 2 pictures of the 3 copper bright links at the top, is that the correct orientation to put the R53's back in timing? My marks and chains line up exactly like this but i'm not sure if **** the correct orientation for being on the correct time. I'm doing my first ever head gasket replacement on my r53 so any help would be much appreciated.
Yes it is that simple. You cannot go wrong to be honest.
Also the amount of chain revoltions to get the marks lined up again was 18, if I remember correctly. Which is a lot.
