Hi everyone,

I have a 2007 Cooper S that, I believe, had a dead battery. It wouldn't turn over and I heard the standard clicking of a dead battery. The last few weeks it struggled to start, so I was seeing signs anyway.

I just replaced the battery and everything powers on just fine, but no crank no nothing! I can hear the fuel pump prime, but it's not even trying to start. Was there anything I was supposed to do when changing this battery? I do notice the key symbol come on when trying to start, but the key is locking and unlocking the car just fine. So I don't think the battery is dead on the fob.

What am I missing? This is urgent cause I have family coming in to town tomorrow and they're supposed to use the car to get around damn it! Worst timing ever.

@Lou@Prototype-R

 

Probably need to "register" the new battery --- tell the ECU the battery has been replaced, 'specially if it has the EBS IBS (Intelligent Battery System) feature. Whether or not EBS IBS is installed can be determined by a small "box" of stuff on the battery cable. Usually a dealer chore, but maybe some scanners can do it.

Here's a screenshot of the different cables. #1 is the IBS cable.

 

This would prevent it from even trying to turn over? I don't think mine has the EBS feature. I don't see anything attached to the battery cables. They look pretty standard. Then again, I don't know what I'm looking for loll.

 

Did you try starting with the other key? Maybe remove and re-attach the negative battery terminal.

 

If the key unlocks/locks then its not a problem of ur key.(however you must charge or replace your key asap) because one day you wont be able to unlock or crank it.Been there :D:D

The battery registration isnt enough for make the car not to crank. Suppoosed your battery is dead at the middle of the road and you replace battery but wont start because of registration.hahahh

So i guess there are only 2 things left to check and should be one of those.

1.Check if the input/fob on the car is connected and work properly. Maybe this part because of battery issues damaged so it doesnt send the signal to crank so it can crank.
2.The clicky noise you mention of the battery doesnt come from the battery it comes from the electric noise when power is not enough to "send" the voltage OR it comes from your starter because cannot crank it.
Your starter could be dead because of the stress it has to crank the motor without having enough voltage to work the starter properly and crank the system.


Hope all this help!
Cheers man:D

 

It could be plenty of things, but I always like to begin with the easy, like try another key and attach a jump pack or attach a running car via jumper cables.

If the pump sound he heard was indeed the fuel pump, then I don’t think the key is the problem because the immobilized kills the fuel pump. With a lot of cars, it is possible for the fob to unlock the car while the key still isn’t programmed to disable the immobilizer. And if you have a spare key, it’s a ten second test so why not try it before busting out the code scanner?

 

I only have one key, unfortunately. I've tried removing the cables again to try and reset things but it didn't help.

 

Great info, thank you! I think I'm going to replace the starter just for the heck of it since I'm already over 100k miles.

How do I check if the input/fob on the car is connected? I know the car reads the key because the key icon shows up on the dash when I insert it. But is it possible it isn't in "sync" or whatever to start it?

 

I don't have a second key =/ Bought the car a month ago with one key, dang it.

How do I program the key to disable the immobilizer?

 

Whether or not registration is needed, you should find a scanner designed for Mini's and troubleshoot the codes it reports. If you're new to Mini's, you're gonna need a repair manual --- suggest Bentley's, and get familiar with RealOEM for illustrated parts lists.

Also, I added a photo showing what the two cables look like, and corrected the name --- not EBS but IBS for Intelligent Battery System --- post #2.

Staxtis presents a reasonable argument why it shouldn't be a registration problem. From what I understand about the ECU, battery voltage is monitored and used to control alternator output --- I've been told this by different Mini mechanics. When the battery is replaced, the sudden increase in voltage seen by the ECU could be enough to prevent the ECU from engaging the starter --- a WAG on my part, not so wild if IBS is installed. You might want to talk with your own Mini specialist and get their opinion.

My '07 MCS has 2 keys, but I was told by the dealer mechanic to alternate key use to keep their battery charged. You might just need a key battery charge.

 

@SuperOriginalGuy Have you checked that the new battery is fine? Do you get the same behaviour if you use jumper cables with a car with good battery and running engine? And just to make sure: you have a "comfort access" key fob (i.e. you can keep the key fob in your pocket and still start the car), correct?

Here is some info on "Reduction or Shutdown of individual electrical consumer" and "Voltage Supply" (voltage monitoring with IBS). Whether or not the information is complete and/or has been been modified since its release, I don't know. However, since one of their purposes is to increase the likelyhood that the car can be started the next time after it has been shut off, I can't imagine that it would somehow inhibit just that. Anyway, FWIW:

 

@SuperOriginalGuy ,

Is this Mini stick shift or automatic? If its automatic, the safety switch for neutral or park could be faulty. You must check those first before you go out buying a starter motor. If you have a stick shift, then the safety switch on the clutch pedal could be faulty. PLEASE CHECK THOSE FIRST.

 

@SuperOriginalGuy ,

You can't program the keyfob to disable the immobilizer. ONLY the dealership can do that.

 

Oh geez, I already ripped this starter apart lol. Dang it! It's an automatic. How do I check for a faulty safety switch? I tried starting it in neutral and park.

 

I have the key that you have to insert, and then push the start button next to it.

 

2007 does not have IBS .... came later (I had a 2007)

not registering the battery will NOT prevent the car from starting ......

will the car start from a jump?

If so it ain't the battery

 

Do you know if simply changing the battery in the fob accomplishes the same thing? I didn't realize you could charge these types of batteries...

 

I never tried jumping it. I simply replaced the battery, then figured the starter would be my next step.I'm starting to think I jumped the gun on this one lol

 

I can't help there --- when my car battery got low I replaced it, so my key fob batteries never quite discharged enough to stop working. With only one key, you shouldn't try removing or replacing the fob battery, it looks like a destructive process. Talk with a dealer's mechanic about replacement / recharging.

If you have a scanner to read from the OBD II connector, what is the battery voltage with starter installed and:
- with no key and everything off?
- with key in, gear shift in Neutral or Park and while pressing Start button?
If your scanner doesn't have that reading available, get one that does. Reading battery voltage at the battery terminals should only be done if you get no voltage from the OBD II connector.

 

@SuperOriginalGuy

Unplug the safety switch and simply use an OHM meter to check the continuity. While checking it, push the switch in and out to see if you're getting any readings.

 

Thanks. You mentioned in your first post that a "key symbol" comes on when trying to start. Do you know if the key fob has ever been fondled with or replaced by anyone other than an authorized BMW/MINI dealership? Could you post a close-up picture of the fob?

There are two kinds of key fobs: without comfort access (like yours) with a rechargeable, soldered-in battery and with comfort access (with a non-rechargeable, user replaceable battery). The standard key (like yours, without comfort access) does not rely on the fob's battery to start the car. The car will still start with the right fob inserted in the slot, even if the battery is completely dead and/or unchargeable.

Have you tried jump starting the car by now?

Alternatively, onboard voltage can be monitored from within the "secret menu" (IIRC at position 9.1). If the engine is not running, the voltage displayed is the battery voltage under load at real time.

 

Welp, it was the starter! Bought a battery for no reason. Well... it was 5 years old so it probably needed to go anyway.

The starter was a pain in the freagin' **** to change!! But now I have a new issue.

I forgot to tighten some of the air intake hoses and they popped off while driving. One was attached to the round thing behind and below the intake manifold, and the other was to the left of that.
The check engine light turned on and ran it like ****.

I reattached all the hoses, but the CE light is still on and now it runs fine except for idle; it idles like crap. It seems to be intermittent though - usually when it's all warmed up. I don't know what is going on now...