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So this is my first experience with a Mini, and it's an awesome car... except for when I'm in a turn and I hit a bump or metal grate, or really any uneven pavement, I lose traction so easily! The first time this happened I was in a 45mph turn going about 50 mph. There was like a metal divide in the road and the front end lost traction and gave me a mini death wobble or it feels like I'm slipping on ice. Under normal circumstances this wouldn't be too big of a deal to me, but I had my baby in the back seat. I now keep two hands on the steering wheel in every turn lol. It happens so frequently, I feel like it can't be normal. This is my first FWD car, so there's that... Is this normal for these Minis to lose traction like that?
What can I do to help myself here... Are there steering dampers for these things?
Last edited by SuperOriginalGuy; Jun 23, 2022 at 10:38 AM.
Manual or auto gear box? Downshift the manual into a turn, the higher RPM will increase stability.
Auto with the shifters on the steering wheel. I ill give that a shot. I try to limit my racecar driving when I have my baby lol, but I guess taking a turn in a higher gear is better than slipping off the edge of a cliff!
Do please specify the tires that your car is wearing?
I ask because your post describes encounters with metal divider/grate which of course should not upset the car at all under the the stated conditions.
There is no way in heck that a healthy R56 behaves in that manner!
Something is wrong without doubt.
How does the car react to bumps? You mentioned a "death wobble" which I find very alarming indeed.
Cheers,
Charlie
So the tires are two months old. This is the first time I'm actually looking at the brand. I've never heard of them! lol Maybe this is the issue?
Maybe "death wobble" isn't the correct terminology for what's happening. The best way I can describe it is, I lose traction, similar to hydroplaning, and then the sudden correction that comes after the tires grip again cause a bit of a quick jerk back and forth. I do feel like if I had substantial speed, it could turn into a death wobble though...
Auto with the shifters on the steering wheel. I ill give that a shot. I try to limit my racecar driving when I have my baby lol, but I guess taking a turn in a higher gear is better than slipping off the edge of a cliff!
Now's as good a time as any to get the wee lad/lass tuned in to the wonderful world of MINI motoring.
Ok, the tires are UTQC 460, which tells me they should last quite a while but not provide the same traction that one might obtain from more performance oriented options. However the difference should not be day and night in my experience.
I've been running UTQC 200 tires in summer for years, and last winter ran Continental DWS06 Plus which I quite liked and have a UTQC rating of 560 - they never disappointed me with respect to predictability and grip, although I never pushed them hard as I might with the Falken RT660 or the Yokohama A052.
So, if I may inquire further regarding your observations: "or really any uneven pavement" - contributing to loss of traction.
It has already been noted that the LCA bushings are a potential contributor to undesirable play in the front suspension, to which I could add only that shock performance in the case of bumps and uneven pavement is also critical.
So tires might be the principal factor on a metal grate, or a painted road surface (particularly when wet). A slip/grip transition can certainly provide some surprising feedback at the steering wheel.
However bumps or uneven pavement suggest shocks, bushings, and sway bar - as these components are essential to maintain a stable contact patch having consistent grip on the road.
So as usual when uncertain on a matter, I seek more information! ;-)
To test the lower control arm bushings, turn the tire slightly out, then kick the upper part of the tire with your heel. If you get a lot of tire wobble (or especially if you get knock) then the LCA bushings are shot. Poly is a great upgrade for those but it's not a very fun job.
For tires steer clear of run flats, as with the stiff sidewalls they tend to ride and handle poorly. One of the biggest upgrades I did on my '12 CS was to get regular tires and an inflator kit instead.
Ok, the tires are UTQC 460, which tells me they should last quite a while but not provide the same traction that one might obtain from more performance oriented options. However the difference should not be day and night in my experience.
I've been running UTQC 200 tires in summer for years, and last winter ran Continental DWS06 Plus which I quite liked and have a UTQC rating of 560 - they never disappointed me with respect to predictability and grip, although I never pushed them hard as I might with the Falken RT660 or the Yokohama A052.
So, if I may inquire further regarding your observations: "or really any uneven pavement" - contributing to loss of traction.
It has already been noted that the LCA bushings are a potential contributor to undesirable play in the front suspension, to which I could add only that shock performance in the case of bumps and uneven pavement is also critical.
So tires might be the principal factor on a metal grate, or a painted road surface (particularly when wet). A slip/grip transition can certainly provide some surprising feedback at the steering wheel.
However bumps or uneven pavement suggest shocks, bushings, and sway bar - as these components are essential to maintain a stable contact patch having consistent grip on the road.
So as usual when uncertain on a matter, I seek more information! ;-)
Cheers,
Charlie
This has to be the most articulate answer I've ever received on a forum, ever. Hahaha... Your input is much appreciated, good sir!
To test the lower control arm bushings, turn the tire slightly out, then kick the upper part of the tire with your heel. If you get a lot of tire wobble (or especially if you get knock) then the LCA bushings are shot. Poly is a great upgrade for those but it's not a very fun job.
For tires steer clear of run flats, as with the stiff sidewalls they tend to ride and handle poorly. One of the biggest upgrades I did on my '12 CS was to get regular tires and an inflator kit instead.
This is interesting - so this brings back something that the seller told me about these tires that I forgot about. They are in fact run flats. Is that a standard thing for Mini? And when you refer to "inflator kits" do you mean those bottles that inflate the tire with an additive to seal a puncture?
Run flats were standard on the S due to not having spare tire. Many places won’t mount non run flats because of the original spec, but it shouldn’t be too hard to get someone to mount regular tires if you want.
Most who change to regular tires tires get a separate 12v compressor and some kind of liquid sealant or plug kit. The all in one bottles are an option, and some just rely on a roadside assistance subscription.
Run flats were standard on the S due to not having spare tire. Many places won’t mount non run flats because of the original spec, but it shouldn’t be too hard to get someone to mount regular tires if you want.
Most who change to regular tires tires get a separate 12v compressor and some kind of liquid sealant or plug kit. The all in one bottles are an option, and some just rely on a roadside assistance subscription.
Good to know! I have a tire plug kit and compressor so I think this might be a great route to go. I think I prefer regular tires.
Good to know! I have a tire plug kit and compressor so I think this might be a great route to go. I think I prefer regular tires.
You definitely will. I didn't realize those were run flats, but if they are then the stiffness will bounce you around mid-corner so they may be part of the problem. I just got one of those Slime kits with the repair goop and a 12V inflator when I went to normal tires.
Your LCA bushings are probably shot too, honestly. Most of them are.