Greetings NAM! Been watching threads here for a few months, but unfortunate to meet this way. I was hoping my first post would have been about the great success I had putting the car back together. BUT............

A/C controls, window controls, lock control are completely dead. Exterior lights are always on. I've been reading through a lot of threads for FRM issues with some similar issues, but none of the same(except for a melted glove box light bulb). Here's the gist of it:
Just finished a cylinder head clean-up/rebuild(new valves/seals) and timing chain replacement on a 2009 Base(190k miles). I tried swapping a few interior pieces out with a 2011 donor, but realized that the donor parts were a different, lower "option" level that what I had. Regardless, I had everything working decently; engine ran(after new freeze plugs in the CH, a new water pipe under the intake and a 6' dishwasher drain hose to make the PCV happy until a replacement hose shows up), primed and burped the coolant system(with working A/C controls). After swapping out the speedo faceplate and trim, and reassembling the dash, all of the lower controls are completely dead. It's been in the garage since I started and I've checked everything discussed across the multiple FRM threads(fuses, connections, battery voltage, corrosion, cleared DTCs, disconnected battery, bulbs, etc.) with the exception of pulling the FRM. Mainly due to not having found indisputable proof that the FRM manages the A/C controls. I hate to ask the obvious, but is that all I have left to check? Is there a junction or module deeper behind the dash that no one wants to talk about? Is there a surefire "in-car" test for the FRM? Is there any way to bypass/override the FRM? Certainly someone has managed to analog this.

And what is this relay for?

Hot relay

 

Update:
Dug a little deeper last night; metered each fuse(passenger footwell and engine bay), reinstalled all of the halogen bulbs I'd replaced with LEDs. No change. Removed the FRM and opened it up. It looks brand new, besides a little dust. I'll reinstall it this afternoon and see what happens. Looking through the Haynes and Chiltons manuals(don't judge me) last night, I saw the the only common connection, besides the "Computer Data Lines"(OBDII?), between the a) exterior lights, the b) window/lock controls, and the c) A/C controls is the electronics junction box(passenger footwell?). a) and b) are definitely related by the FRM, but c) is mostly the junction box and DME.

Maybe I'll get lucky and the FRM sitting out overnight will convince the car to play nice.

 

The FRM going bad after a battery jump or reconnection is common. it needs to be reflashed. I do offer the service in the States. send me a PM if you are interested.

 

Another update: Success?!?!
Disconnected the battery(almost didn't because of the known possibility of frying the FRM or ECU while connecting/reconnecting), reinstalled the FRM, reconnected battery. A/C controls work, window and lock controls work. Now a new list of problems; exterior lights are always on(this was happening before but...), was able to "relearn" up and down positions for the driver and passenger windows although I've lost the one-touch up function on the driver's side, sunroof opens and closes but one touch controls both ways are gone now, so I'm pretty sure I'll still need to re-flash the FRM(also to code out the LED lights).

AND... she's running at 215-220 degrees after a 20 minute, 1/2 mile test drive in the neighborhood. I'll do another coolant burp tomorrow. I do have a CEL that codes P0112 and P2EF2(both related to intake air temp) so I'll see if one of the parts stores have any MAF sensors in stock and get it swapped out tomorrow also.

 

Sorry for the long post but the devil may be in details.
So I got most of the electrical gremlins sorted(exterior lights are still always on) and she runs great cold and decently at temp as long as you don't completely release the gas. It's a manual and 2nd gear is not a thing anymore. Here's the "Cost Complaint List" from the wife:
Cylinder head reworked. Cleaned, still straight so I opted not to deck it. All new valves, all new valve seals installed by the CH shop(included vacuum and pressure test)
New +.3mm head gasket
New timing chain assy
New water pump
New thermostat assy
New cross-over pipe
New oil filter assy
New VANOS solenoids(both)
New a/c condenser
New TTY bolts
New upstream O2 sensor
New core support
Throttle body cleaned
MAF sensor cleaned
>4 months in her parking spot

I have a few issues that I can't find solutions for:

1. Coolant temp - Once she gets warmed up, coolant temp will fluctuate from 210F to 230F with the A/C controls off. There seems to be no rhyme or reason for the radiator fan to come on. Sometimes it'll run as soon as temps hit 220F, sometimes immediately after the car is turned off(or stalls), sometimes not at all. I've tried swapping the relays in the engine junction box to see if one of them has a dead spot, but that didn't help. When it is running, the temp will decrease 5-8 degrees.
2. Sputtering/sometimes stalling at idle when hot(>215F) - This drove the water pump/thermostat replacement, hoping that the load on the engine at temp was causing the stalling issue. Timing has been checked/reset at least 5 or 6 times using the standard method with the ABN Engine Timing Tool Set for Mini Cooper N12, N14. There is the tiniest bit of a gap, <15 thousandths, with the tool installed. On my last timing check, I found a happy center and shimmed one side of the locking tool on the camshaft.
Here's what happens: Start the car cold, runs fine/good throttle response until temps get in the >215F range. After that, when you rev it off of idle and release the gas pedal, the engine "stumbles" trying to "catch" idle rpms. Leaving it at idle, at temp, the engine "hunts" between 600-850 rpm. Obviously on the lower end is when it stumbles. Temps are usually 218-222F at this point. This also occurs with the car in motion; drive a short distance and if you're on the clutch and not on the gas, i.e. "coasting" to a stop, it'll die. Sometimes it'll throw the CEL, either with P0013/P2845 or P0012 by itself.

I've ordered another set of TTY bolts for the cams and will do another timing calibration when they show up. In the mean time, I plan to hunt for vacuum leaks with some starter fluid. Other than that, I'm at the end of my rope(and falling farther out of favor with the wife). There is a short list of un-replaced parts - Vacuum pump, throttle body, MAF, VANOS motor.

Any input/ideas from the forum? I'm using an Autophix 5900 for diagnostic. Seems capable as it allowed me to reset CBS codes, SRS, brakes and watch live data. Does anyone have standard idle numbers/ranges for a stock R56 Base? short/long term fuel, engine loads, timing advance, anything else relevant to rough idle issues?

 

Checked the timing again before replacing the cam sprocket bolts. With the flywheel pinned, the timing tool fits nicely on the camshafts. So timing is right. Started it up again and after warming up, it eventually stalled. No CEL, but it had P0012 pending.

Does no one have ideas for why it'll stall once it gets up to temp?

 

Pulled both oil non-return valves. Found the intake side stuck open, or maybe it's closed, not sure which way the flow is, but the spring is compressed. I'll see what happens when the replacements arrive.

 

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good luck!

 

Fixed it

 

Congrats! How did you?

 

It was the non-return valve on the intake side. Got a lead from the mini2 forum.

 

The non-return valve replace was a success. replaced both of them, although the latest code (P0012), and the obviously failed unit indicate/were on the intake side. Car ran fine all weekend.

Now I get to chase down the cause of the wet passenger floorboard!!!