I replaced the HPFP about one month ago. Since then my daughter has been driving the car, she drives spirited but not as much as her Papi (me). The car has been performing flawlessly.

Tonight we went to dinner and she wanted me to drive her car home as she was tired. I have not yet had a chance to open her up yet so very close to home I went through the gears.
Nothing to crazy but red line and just having fun ad then all of a sudden POP! and then immediately no power and "Engine malfunction! Reduced power".

We limped home and pushed it into the garage. I scanned the car and there are no codes. The car ill start for 5-6 second and then die out. There is a very strong odor of gasoline when attempting to start it. There is also a loud whine each time.

I believe the car is getting enough gas to start for a few seconds and then there is not enough gas to keep it going. Why the smell I am not sure. When the original HPFP failed there were no error codes also, so based on that I am not surprised there are no codes.
I suspect the HPFP "blew" and that is why oil coming out of the lower hole on the HPFP.

We just rolled into the garage(literally) so I will get a picture and video up soon once I remove a few things.

Does it sound like I am on the right track, has this or something similar happened to anyone else?
Video Here


Engine Malfunction

HPFP 1

HPFP 2 Oil

 

A hpfp should not lose oil. It's a closed system with oil an essential part of it (see some disassembly threads somewhere around here).
Did you go aftermarket for the HPFP or OEM? I think the OEM ones are back down to ~500$ and well worth the extra money.

 

Thank you. I went with OEM, and usually go with OEM where it makes sense. I guess I pushed it just a little too hard lol.

 

I also have a N14 on my track Mini with an OEM fuel pump. That one sees red line any day, and no issues there.

For sure you need to check the pump (maybe get it out of the car, and see if it moves freely or makes noise when manually spinning the shaft) - and then maybe check if you have some warranty on that thing?

 

Yes the car should be able to be pushed. I was just about to get tuned also! So glad it happened now. I will be removing it tomorrow and inspecting, and already contacted the company (Neo Brothers)

" There will be some residue at the hole under the pump – this is completely normal" - huh?

 

Enthusiasts...QQ as I am being "challenged" from Neo Brothers for the warranty.."take it to a shop blah blah", wt ...

Question

My understanding is the HPFP is a closed system, should there be any oil leaking / is oil as per the pic normal?

 

Did you check any of the DTCs that might be stored in the computer, or did you just assume it was the fuel pump?

 

There were no DTC's. When the HPFP went out the first time there were also no DTC's

 

Anyone have the min/max specs for depth of the diaphragm?

Currently measuring 22.80 mm.

Car has been sitting for a few days and I tried to start it, it started right up and revv'd up fairly high and strong. I didn't take it for a test spin, etc.. not sure what is going exactly.

 

What tool are you using to check for DTCs? I find it hard to believe that you have a half power light and no codes….

 

I have several, and it has happened more than I would like when it comes to the "reduced power" message.

Veepak+Carista (Paid app), Carly +Carly adapter(Paid app), stand alone scan tool.
With the Veepak I also use DashCMD, OBD Fusion, Car Scanner, etc...

 

The plot thickens...Car will not start or stay running if the MAF is plugged in. It looks clean! Any advice ?

Codes..only when I try to start without MAF which is expected

 

I think a hose came off - something in the intake system. My Audi did this - loud pop, drastic loss of power. It was an intercooler hose.

Another clue is running better with the MAF unplugged. That means that the MAF is giving a drastically wrong reading to the ECU, maybe because a lot of the intake air is bypassing it. With the MAF unplugged, the ECU uses a default map.

Check all intake piping - including intercooler / turbo piping.

 

It might help to post up what codes you are getting. I got a maf code that ended up being a tear in the rubber boot from intercooler to the plastic charge pipe on passenger side.

 

Thank you Mark & Jason for leading me to the water! I see a theme here...check the intercooler hoses
Hot side IC hose was off. All good to go now. I think I might change the MAF too.

@Mark - INTERESTING! Good to know I am not the only one. I have checked the hoses under the hood all looks good. I will crawl under and check the intercooler hoses
@Jason - I agree! Too bad there are no codes present. If I unplug the MAF then a code is generated. I cleared the codes and attempted to generate a code by starting the car 15+ times, but still no code!

I am thinking now maybe the MAF is bad? Earlier this year I upgraded to DP (not tuned yet) and then there seemed to be more soot than usual when starting and warming up the car. It is black on my garage door and floor. But now that I give it more thought it was running "rich" before the DP too and maybe I never really noticed until the DP was installed and I starting paying attention...lol not sure. Gas mileage could be better.

I don't mind replacing the MAF to see if it corrects itself, but maybe after 9 years it isn't a bad idea to replace it anyway, but the cost $$!

 

When mine went into limp mode, I didn’t see any codes on my scanguage, but I knew it was my DV. I have a forgery spacer and it was making some funny noises so I knew where to start. I didn’t have bimmerlink at the time. I know bimmerlink will check dct’s. I think Carly does but not sure.

 

Carly reads hidden DTCs for me

 

My Vanos solonoid froze up and my 2013 Cooper S was running VERY rich and had a bad loapy idle. But I did have some codes along with the half check engine

 

Nice one!

My intercooler hose blew off the day after I had the car chipped. The extra boost was enough to blow off the hose.