I’m looking for a R56 Cooper S under $8k. Just wondering if this is a decent good deal or not?

$6,700 84k miles

Clean title with one minor accident(cosmetics)
One-owner
Regularly maintained

Thanks for everyone’s input!

 

 

It is fair. Just remember that the R56 is notorious for being a maintenance hog. I went a totally separate route when I purchased mine! I love speed though so I knew I was going to mod it and I know how fragile these motors are so I knew I was going to rebuild it. I decided to purchase a higher mileage one, mine had like 149k on it. I only paid $3,000 for it. My budget was $10k and I am now using the rest to forge the motor and stuff a GTX2860R turbo in it. If you want to keep it near stock and enjoy putting around in it bc you like the car, I say talk them down about $500 and go for it. If you want to mod the heck out of it, I would keep your eye open for a higher mileage one for half the price

 

Test drive it before you buy it. Get her up to temp, then take it out on highway and get on her a little. Run through the gears, check brakes out, listen for any clunks, really drive it. If all is well there try to get a mechanic to give her a once over, check for codes, etc. That price does seem a bit high but not by much. Don’t buy one of these site unseen, too many horror stories out there. If you can’t test drive it, at least try to get videos of cold start and of it running.

 

Hi! Thanks for the reply. Im just trying to make it as a daily to work. I think the stock engine and powertrain shouldn’t be too much to be worried about.
Is there a major difference between 2011 model and 2013 model? I know they have the same n18 engine but the prices in the used market do have significant differences when they comes to similar mileages.

 

I think in 2013 they introduced dual Vanos, outside of a few slight differences it is basically the same. I know the N14 is the "better" option to mod due to the block, dual Vanos, etc but since it is a daily commuter I would opt for the newer year model. The N18 doesn't seem to have as many issues as the N14. Timing chains and oil consumption are the biggest issues with these engines. Regardless of a daily beater of track car...front mount intercooler and silicone piping should be done as soon as your budget permits. The stock FMIC is way too small

 

N18 is a dual Vanos engine. Sometime in 2011, the HPFP was updated to a new design. I think it was for the 2012 model year, but not 100% sure. The newer HPFP seems to be less problematic. The N18 still has valve carbon buildup issues, but not as bad as the N14 it replaced. Driving it aggressively seems to keep carbon issues reduced, but being direct-injection, carbon buildup will occur. Timing chain/tensioner issues don't seem to be as prevalent as they were in the N14, but there were a couple of updated chain tensioners released. My 2011 N18 uses about a quart of Mobil 1 0w40 between 5k oil/filter changes. At 122k, still running strong, although I did have to replace the head gasket at 108k, and ended up replacing the head with a used 37k mile head because I wasn't sure if the overheat had warped the head and I couldn't find any local machine shops who sounded like they knew the N18 head at all. As far as I know, mine still has the original timing chain assembly. I bought it used at 21k, and I doubt it was replaced before that. I did have to replace the clutch at around 88k miles.

 

Can't say much about the price, but the front seat's leather looks shinier and "flatter" than mine at half that mileage. Unless only driven by "featherweights", their condition on the pictures does not reflect 84K miles of usage.

Was the car maintained at a BMW/MINI dealer? If possible, I would recommend having a BMW/MINI compatible code reader at hand when test driving it (checking for any codes AFTER the test drive, of course).

A few things beyond the usual I would check if I were to buy another R56:
- lift floor mats and trunk floor cover to smell for a moldy odor (and feel for humidity)
- while at it, check for onboard tools and condition of paint under the trunk floor cover
- lift (pull off) rear hatch seal around the lock area to check for rust (seating it neatly afterwards, of course)
- try out every (!) electric/electronic function, making sure everything works
- check for whining noise from the ac compressor
- if the car has a sunroof: check whether it functions properly and whether it is level with the roof panel when shut (any (!) restraint, delay or "getting stuck" is cause for expensive repair work!)
- check for coolant and oil leaks (looking from underneath the car). If the engine compartment is freshly washed, get suspicious!
- ask whether the thermostat housing has been replaced and if so, whether an OEM part was used.
- using the VIN: check with a MINI dealer whether any recalls for the car are still pending (the owner may have to acknowledge that such information may be shared with you)

 

Thank you! I’ve passed on this one. Bought a 2013 instead.

 

Details on 2013 please.

 

2013 MINI Cooper S
Clean Title no accidents
$7,500
89,000 miles

 

Pay a little more for less headaches! Wise choice! Good luck with your new ride and welcome!