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Just got this N14 cylinder head back from the shop and was wanting a more involved look at the procedure; to include all steps to get this car back on the road I imagine I got about 2500$ dollars wrapped up in it by now. All answers are welcomed.
I'm a rookie for the most part and the idea of parting with it two for one and having a couple chances is sounding good also. Or a new trick or 2 to get this thing professionally back on the road? shot of new intake and nitride hardened valves.
Got that one. 100 degrees on the crank for timing is a bit sketchy though from that book; At the same time a few people have said that torque on that if you do it right would take at 100 degrees.
Timing is gonna be a big aspect as well as fastening the head itself. which is really why I posted this. do they have a .150 head gasket available.
N14 head.
and is there is small leveling tool I need to purchase to make sure the deck is level at 90 degrees of the cam square at the end where the 27mm wrench would be in the timing process to make sure my cam locks are true.
Got that one. 100 degrees on the crank for timing is a bit sketchy though from that book; At the same time a few people have said that torque on that if you do it right would take at 100 degrees.
Timing is gonna be a big aspect as well as fastening the head itself. which is really why I posted this. do they have a .150 head gasket available.
This 100 deg setting is outdated. Later TIS documents have it at 180 deg. I lost a set of valves after using the 100 deg --- bolt worked loose. An online version of repair instructions can be found here --- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ --- combined with the illustrated parts list --- http://www.realoem.com/bmw/index.do --- you hardly need the Bentley manual.
I'm only aware of two head gasket thicknesses --- 0.90mm and 1.20mm --- unless your ".150" refers to something else. Most Mini aftermarket suppliers have them. Are you gonna use ARP studs?
I can't comment on the leveling tool and checking for cam square. Even tho both my block and head were "shaved", it went together OK and is performing pretty good, without being checked for level and square.
To protect your new valves, I suggest installing a good WMI system, AquaMist --- great for keeping the stems clean. Also adds a bit of cooling and helps prevent lean mixtures.
Timing chain on left is original to the n14 the one on the right was said to be for the n14. I should of pulled the old one out before the purchase and the tensioner guide is the only part that is in question.
The lifters have been changed on it everything new(least cams). The tightness of cam journals are in question for me. I know the torque spec. Is there a tightening order? And height tolerance of the cylinder head is in question considering before I smashed the last set of valves; it only happened during a downshift flooring situation. Regular flooring did not cause the damage I posted under my other post. Therefore it happened around the upper rpm. I still have my rev limiters in place also computer is stock. everything was new though(turbo, valve train, timing chain(which is skeptical because of all the timing chains out there with the one guide not looking exactly like the one that came out) etc..
So might of just been some of the adaptive learning in the computer from the way the motor was; with data transferring the old map onto the new before the new had time to effect the computer(the accident happened after about 3 miles.).
