I’m looking into purchasing our first mini. Everything in my budget is 07-10. I see they aren’t the most desired motors. My question is a non turbo better than a turbo for reliability? Obviously I want the performance of the “S” model. This car will be a commuter for my wife. I’d like to hear everyone’s thoughts.
Two cars I found that we like. First is a 2009 r56s. 87k miles 2 owner car. Second is a 2007 r56 with 60k miles one owner car. Both cars are same price. Both cars will be a 6 speed

 

If you're on a tight budget now, I highly recommend you skip the N12 - 14 series engines. Yes, there's probably some out there that will satisfy your reliability needs, but why take the chance. Maybe consider them if you can see maintenance records showing all the common major failures have been repaired. These records are critical when buying a used N12 - 14.

 

I recommend the non turbo for simplicity and reliability. The S performance is nice (but not particularly fast) but it brings with it a number of expensive problems: high pressure fuel pump, carbon build up, etc. that you won't have to worry about with the plain R56. My 2010 R56 has required nothing but oil changes for 9 yrs.

 

I think you'd be better putting that towards a down payment on an F56. I think that would be a better long term go.
But Manual NA R56 for reliability is my vote.

 

I have 3 vehicles already or else we would get a much newer one. This would be just a commuter / fun car for my wife. Currently we have a 2500hd crew cab gmc, Chevy Tahoe and a Toyota hj45 Land Cruiser. Sounds like the regular r56 is sounding like the better choice

 

In this case, yes, R56 non-S sounds like the go-to

 

I think the question you need to answer first is: can you fix your own car? And are you inclined to go as far as doing the timing chain on your own? Because if you can't do the job yourself, then I'd recommend you to stay away from the Cooper S simply because there are numerous peripheral components which are typically bound to fail before the 100k miles mark. If you will rely on dealership to fix your car, be ready to shell out 500-800 on each easy components such as water pump, thermostat, HPFP, walnut blast, etc.. and that's each job. And you may get lucky to cut those cost in half with indy mechanics. Then again, if you can do the work on your own, you may end up like me, really enjoy each fix and loving the S performance at the same time. We came from non-S to an S, and though we enjoy the performance difference, we also come to cope with various costly repairs by figuring out the DIY projects to keep it afloat.

 

We love our 'adorable' 2013 base MC and have no issues with driveability. One thing that crosses all the platforms (base/S/JCW) is the slot-car handling so you won't miss out on that going basic. We also own a JCW Countryman and previously owned an S Clubman. While the S/JCW will definitely scoot along faster, all of them handle great. And the fuel economy with the base is incredible.

 

So I ended up pulling the trigger on the 2007 r56. One owner with 60k miles and service history since new. Car was really well cared for and extremely clean.

 

That looks super clean and someone ordered or installed the old X lite wheels from the R53 era. Nice find.

 

Even I got a used non-s or 'just a mini' or the base model manual 2010. I have driven cars not many but a decent amount. I fell in love with driving it. I used to hate driving. But then I found out all these. horror stories regarding timing chain. It does make the noise. I have been researching so heard in the hope that nothing happens but I never know. As far as I read, I guess N12 doesn't have as much casualties as N14.
There is a guy here who talks about minis. Great explanation and seems easy. I don't own a home so I can't repair my car on the streets of my apartment but I love knowing more about these cars.
Firstly this is the youtube guy I highly recommend watching:

Then there is this guy who says the noise that you hear is completely normal. My car sound exactly like this:
There will be many scary videos of timing chain death rattle if you search in youtube, it is upto us whether to get scared or not and go and buy one of those hondas and toyotas

Because I loved the car so much I just changed all fluids. I used castrol 0w40 and I think that is the best option among all that I researched. I used fram (just because it is readily available in stores) CH10066 although I read purflux L358A is what the OEM is. I will buy that one next time. The drain plug washer of FRAM is not as rounded and flatter original one and oil will drip if you use the fram one. I would recommend buying the original drain plug washer from various online stores and keep a stock. My oil is dripping but I keep an eye on it and it is not too much. I will do oil changes quicker than usual and I am thinking in next 4K. Always always check oil, this little thing drinks oil. I did a coolant flush just because there is no engine temperature gauge, I thought to do it. Then manual transmission fluid it says lifetime but I changed it by buying my own although that modmini youtube suggests an aftermarket. Be careful that it has to be GL4

thought to share what I thought. ANy suggestions and comments are more than welcome. I am happy to learn more.