Hey guys,

I've loved my MINI for a while and I think my Clutch is going bad. For example, when I am in 6th gear and step on the gas too hard, the engine will rev a lot faster than usual and I won't really go any faster. It feels like I have to baby it to stay in gear.

I am just trying to figure out what all I need to replace because I have seen stuff all over the place, and I am not sure what parts specifically I need.

Here is what I think I need, but not completely sure and trying not to spend a fortune:

• Clutch Kit
• Flywheel
• Master Cylinder
• Slave Cylinder

Let me know if I am missing anything, and I am also not sure which parts to get, specifically for the Flywheel. For example, if I go with Sachs, on Amazon it says I can get a DMF91164 or DMF91165 but on Ebay most of the posts say I can only get a DMF91164 and I can't even find any info about what the difference between those two model numbers really is other than DMF91164 cost $100 more.

I am pretty sure my Engine is N12B16A but not sure how to verify that. The photos on google certainly look correct. My VIN if it helps is WMWMF33557TL67653

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Hi, just done my 'justa' clutch and I will list parts I changed.
Valeo clutch kit. (did not come with allignment tool and you will need one).
Crankshaft hub seal (gearbox end) I used the old seal to tap in the new one for a perfect fit so did not need any fancy tool.
New flywheel bolts as these are stretch to fit. Blue thread lock (most new bolts come with this on).
Driveshaft seals x 2.
Gearbox input seal.
Haynes manual.

While the subframe was off I took the opportunity to change the ARB bushes and lower control bushes to Powerflex (what a diferrence that made to handling).
There is no requirement to replace the flywheel on a justa, mine was good and only needed a clean with some petrol on a rag.
Also no need to change the slave or master cylinder unless they are leaking.
It is also the perfect time to change your thermostat housing as you have everything off already (a pig of a job if doing from start and a rear clip on the cross pipe is a bugger to get to normally) If you do this, get jubilee clips to replace the old ones as you'll never get a seal with the old ones.
Top tip - tie the steering wheel in place before disconnecting it so that it goes on in exactly the same place with the wheels straight when reassembling otherwise your steering angle will be off and get the Trifeca warning lights.
Check your front wheels for any movement when on the stands and replace any worn ball-joints, you are inabout them anyway.

 

I just did my clutch too. Good stuff from Scudder44

1. You don't need a flywheel; the old one can be resurfaced and you'll save $400. My car (N12 engine) doesn't have a dual-mass flywheel; it's just an old fashioned flywheel.
2. If your master & slave cylinders aren't leaking, those don't need to be replaced.
3. Valeo is the OEM clutch (was in my car anyway), so that's what I used. Managed to get 127K miles out of the original, and I had plenty of wear left; the release bearing was the problem ... no lubricant remaining. My kit came with the alignment tool.
4. Richard at Fairfield Imports says to leave the rear crank seal alone ... if it's not leaking, don't mess with it. These are PTFE seals, and require different procedures than the older type seals. I didn't change mine. If you do decide to change the rear crank seal, do some research on changing PTFE seals. There are many ways to do it incorrectly, and you don't want to find you have a rear crankshaft seal oil leak after you get it all back together!
5. Flywheel and pressure plate bolts; I thinks Scudder44 meant torque to yield as opposed to stretch to fit.
6. Concur with the blue threadlocker on the pressure plate bolts; the flywheel bolts came pre-dipped.
7. Don't forget to get some transmission fluid (must be drained before removal). Motive makes a power filler that makes servicing the transmission a snap!
8. Concur with the driveshaft seals, but I didn't change my transmission input shaft seal ... again, it wasn't leaking.
9. Yes you have an N12 engine. Enter the last 7 of your VIN at realoem.com
10. Recommend a Foxwell NT510 scanner to clear any codes once you are finished. The Bentley service manual says the steering angle sensor must be reset (post install). You can pay the dealer $125/hr or buy the scanner.
11. Recommend the crankshaft holder tool. Very handy when torquing the flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

 

Just do the clutch kit with the fork and guide tube.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/oem-cl...per-non-s.html

Don't got with an aftermarket we constantly are dealing with them not working correctly.

Don't waste money on a slave cylinder or master cylinder unless they are actually leaking.

Then inspect the flywheel to see if you need it as most the time we can just put a clutch in.

I would recommend doing the front control arm bushings with powerflex while you have the subframe out.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...7-r58-r59.html

 

All this is already in the thread...