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ok, after trying to find a solution for my super knock problems for about 100k miles on my n14 turbo (yes, i am slow ) i decided to go to the occ route. I found cheap one from aliexpress with baffle etc. and gone ahead and bought it just to realize it’s a 3 port (2 in 1 out) occ.
here is my question. Should i populate both of the in ports by using passenger side and turbo side as inlet to the occ and use turbo side for the out, or should i just find a way to block one of the in ports on occ and cap passenger side pcv all together and just use turbo side pcv for in and out. I hope it’s understandable
thanks for your time.
ps. This is the occ i bought
http://s.aliexpress.com/MJvmqYzI
*buy a block cap for the passenger side input at the back of the head.. cap it off
*plumb the crankcase output to port#1
*plumb the head output (from the drivers side) to port#2
*plumb the turbo inlet to port#3
Say goodbye to 90% your carbon buildup occurring ever again!
*buy a block cap for the passenger side input at the back of the head.. cap it off
*plumb the crankcase output to port#1
*plumb the head output (from the drivers side) to port#2
*plumb the turbo inlet to port#3
Say goodbye to 90% your carbon buildup occurring ever again!
Wait, You are talking about capping the suction under the exhaust manifold right? If that so, it’s exactly what i am planning.
the 3 connections on the drivers side of the motor:
*head
*turbo
*crankcase (under the intake manifold on the drivers side is where it connects)
the one connection on the passenger side:
*head (rear)
Lots of folks have had great success in eliminating carbon buildup on the N14 by blocking the head inlet on the rear of the head (passenger side) and routing the remaining PCV connections to catch cans. This way allows for the existing PCV's to function and relieve any excess pressure, as well as keeping the system from purging to atmosphere and being able to collect the nasty stuff in the can.
Is it possible to add a seperate Oil Catch can on the passenger side? Cornjuice suggestion works but i probably put a check valve on the hose line that goes to the throttle body. I might do this route because i have noticed blue smoke coming out of my car exhaust when the car is hot or add another seperate catch can. When i empty the catch can on the Turbo side instead of oil as we would expect its water and i was afraid maybe the head gasket is leaking too.
the 3 connections on the drivers side of the motor:
*head
*turbo
*crankcase (under the intake manifold on the drivers side is where it connects)
the one connection on the passenger side:
*head (rear)
Lots of folks have had great success in eliminating carbon buildup on the N14 by blocking the head inlet on the rear of the head (passenger side) and routing the remaining PCV connections to catch cans. This way allows for the existing PCV's to function and relieve any excess pressure, as well as keeping the system from purging to atmosphere and being able to collect the nasty stuff in the can.
the thing is, the catch can i bought have 2 inlets and 1 outlet. if i connect crankcase and turbo as an outlet, i have to connect one of them to the inlet, which doesn't have any filter. is there any diy solution for me to fix that? (i mean, what would happen if i connect it directly and trust baffling to seperate them). can you check the link and help me about that?
crankcase vent -> inlet1
drivers side head -> inlet2
turbo -> outlet
As you already see.. the oil comes primarily from the crankcase side and water vapor/condensation from the turbo side. That is ALL normal. Bottom line, you dont want your oil vaping and you dont want condensation in your oil either. The described connections will correct all of that with your catch can.
I wouldnt worry about the baffling too much; consider in OEM form, the motor is already ingesting that crap. If it 'breathes' a bit after the can install, its still going to be getting a lot less vs. stock form.
**DO NOT put any filter element in the catch can either.. if it gets sucked out.. its going straight into your turbine to break it to pieces.
crankcase vent -> inlet1
drivers side head -> inlet2
turbo -> outlet
As you already see.. the oil comes primarily from the crankcase side and water vapor/condensation from the turbo side. That is ALL normal. Bottom line, you dont want your oil vaping and you dont want condensation in your oil either. The described connections will correct all of that with your catch can.
I wouldnt worry about the baffling too much; consider in OEM form, the motor is already ingesting that crap. If it 'breathes' a bit after the can install, its still going to be getting a lot less vs. stock form.
**DO NOT put any filter element in the catch can either.. if it gets sucked out.. its going straight into your turbine to break it to pieces.
ok, so again just to be clear (sorry for being a complete moron ). I will cap the pcv suction under the manifold, right?
with this, there will be no suction if turbo is not sucking enough air. This won’t create excess pressure right? Especially considering that i am driving my car at very low rpms.
no.. you will cap where that path would vent .. which is the passenger side connection into the back of the head. Cap goes on the passenger side (top left at the rear of the head).. all of the connections to your catch can are now on the drivers side.
*removing the hose to the crankcase PCV from the passenger side head connection, you can trace it down under the intake manifold..and over to the drivers side where it connects right near the throttle body. These are stupid 'pop' connections.. so to modify it for catch can use... just measure up, from the pop fitting ~3" before you cut the hose off. This will allow you to put a brass NTP fitting into the hose, so you can have a 1/2" or 3/4" nipple to attach your catch can hose to..AND more importantly.. it still connects back to the car using the pop fitting you left in-tact.
This won’t create a vacuum leak right? Considering there will be 2 vacuum lines, i think at higher boosts, air will be sucked from the crankcase vent too?
On my R56 I used a BSH OCC IIRC. Only one input and one output. On the rear of the passenger side of the valve cover I installed a dual boost tap, effectively blocking the port and giving you two boost/vacuum sources for gauges, BOV, etc. The port on the drivers side of the valve cover goes to the input and the output goes to the intake hose/pipe before the turbo. I think you can see it in the picture of my R56 engine compartment. In your case, if you're determined to use that CC I would seal/block off one of the inputs.
On my R56 I used a BSH OCC IIRC. Only one input and one output. On the rear of the passenger side of the valve cover I installed a dual boost tap, effectively blocking the port and giving you two boost/vacuum sources for gauges, BOV, etc. The port on the drivers side of the valve cover goes to the input and the output goes to the intake hose/pipe before the turbo. I think you can see it in the picture of my R56 engine compartment. In your case, if you're determined to use that CC I would seal/block off one of the inputs.
When you removed the hose from the passenger side of the crank-case, did you also cap/plug at the throttle body?
The dual tap plugs into the valve cover, and the hose plugs into it. It blocks the port on the valve cover. Don't need to touch the other end of that hose. That's what will supply vacuum/boost readings if needed. I ran a boost gauge and a Forge BOV/diverter valve off the other tap. The dual boost tap also comes with plugs if you don't need the taps. It's really a simple installation.
I have an old used OCC with hoses laying around somewhere. I'd let it go cheap if anyones interested. PM me.
On my R56 I used a BSH OCC IIRC. Only one input and one output. On the rear of the passenger side of the valve cover I installed a dual boost tap, effectively blocking the port and giving you two boost/vacuum sources for gauges, BOV, etc. The port on the drivers side of the valve cover goes to the input and the output goes to the intake hose/pipe before the turbo. I think you can see it in the picture of my R56 engine compartment. In your case, if you're determined to use that CC I would seal/block off one of the inputs.
is there any reason why you think that cornjuice's way wouldnt work? i mean, it makes sense but without trying it, i am just making assumptions.
i thought that his way might create vacuum leak but two pcv outputs on the head already works the same way, there is no wall between them except some baffle, i mean, there shouldnt be any problem using one output to the turbo and one input to the vacuum under the manifold.
Well, I installed it today, it’s makeshift really with garden hoses and everything but, at total it cost less than 35 bucks It didn’t solved the super knock though. I don’t know what to do next.
Ok guys, after 2 days of spirited driving, here is an update if anyone is following.
Setup is working, Super knocking is still there but it’s definitely happens less. I can see oil signs at every pipe except turbo intake. After my last drive this night, I checked everything again and saw pressure relief valve at the back of the head spew some oil to my air filter housing.
So, for some reason, turbo is not sucking enough air out of the can even though the filter at the end of it is not blocked. What could be the reason to that?
) i decided to go to the occ route. I found cheap one from aliexpress with baffle etc. and gone ahead and bought it just to realize it’s a 3 port (2 in 1 out) occ.
