So I spend descent amount of time searching for an answer and no luck. I have a bone stock 2013 MCS. Since day one the car popped on deceleration in sport mode. I get gas from the same gas station, ECU hasn't been reset, pretty much nothing has changed. Yesterday on the way to and from work car was popping as usual. Came home went out two hours later. Car warmed up no pops. An hour later of driving still no pops. Turned the car off waited 30 sec started back up popped once and stopped again. Today on the way to work not a single pop. I have no idea I need my popps back lol. Anybody had a similar issue or a solution to this. Thanks

 

I had the turbo replaced recently with a slightly larger one. I get nothing now, have no idea.

 

Aren't the injectors still spraying for a brief time after you come off throttle. That't why unburned fuel ignites due to hot exhaust. Why would the ecu not dump that extra gas. I might just reset the ecu and see if that helps.

 

Very strange, I always get the pops and burbles on sport mode after the car is warmed up. If I do it too much then they go away for a little bit but come back. Try driving it harder and see if it comes back!

 

I did few pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear no change. I disconnected my battery 3 hours ago. Im leaving work in 5 minutes so lets see if this will solve my problem.

 

Yea, it should work once its warmed up and in sport mode. Does not make sense.

 

Ok so here is the update:

Connected the battery after 3 hours and drove home. Car was fully warmed up in sport mode and not a single pop. My next thought was maybe bad gas since I can't think of anything else. I just filled up the other day so I am on a full tank. I went and bought octane booster. Poured in the whole bottle in drove around for 10 min and bang there goes a pop. So it popped as usual for about 4 minutes then stopped like before. Pops came back after 10 minutes then went away again after 4 minutes or so. I parked the car for about 30 min went for a ride and no pops at all. Drove for a little and gave up. I am leaning towards having some bad gas. I can't think of anything else.

 

I installed a Remus exhaust and I noticed the snap, crackles, and pops are much less frequent and when it does pop it's not as loud when I had the stock muffler.

 

So after trying to find a pattern on when it actually pops I came to this conclusion. Once the car is fully warmed up the only way it will pop is if I just idle for 10 or so minutes. It will pop while standing and just revving or driving for about few min then it stops and won't come back until I stop and idle for another 10 min. I am in in constant motion driving around it will never start popping on it's own. I think its either bad gas or has to do something with the engine/exhaust temperature. I still have a full tank of gas so I can't fill up at a different stations to really see if it's bad gas. I don't feel like going thru the hassle of draining the gas tank.

 

hmmm that weird and also i got a afe exhaust and the pops just got lower unless outside it sounds louder

 

Mine are just gone, I've been through many tanks of gas. It used to pop constantly in sport mode.

 

Here's a question for you guys what's the temperature outside?

 

Did my turbo in Nov. temps ranged probably from 10-65 deg.

 

Ok found the problem to this madness. Hope this helps anybody else who has the same issue. SO........ I downloaded the bmwat app to see what's going on with the car. Found out that the car has a fault for open circuit for the electric fan. I remember the fan working just last week with the a/c on. I put the a/c on now and no fan. Ok so there an issue on it's own. I messed with the relay and got it to work. Scanned the car for faults again and back to normal. The fan turns on like it used to. Now for the kicker the pops are back like before. Drove around for an hour, parked went out for a drive again pops are present. In conclusion seems if you have a fault that''s engine related the pops don't occur. I am not sure about if any other codes will affect the pops but the fan fault does. Supper weird but I am happy I was able to diagnose the issue and find a solution. Couldn't do it with out the app which is a great tool.

 

Does that app read/reset things that a regular OBD reader doesn't? I'm not showing other faults.

 

Yes it car read codes that don't throw check engine light. Basically it scans modules and you can clear them. It's a very useful app. Besides you can monitor many different things like: Temp, oil pressure, manifold pressure, fan cycle, etc. For a bonus you can also code the car.

 

cheers-one more ? Are you using the paid version?

 

I downloaded the free version which gives you a report for faults one time. Can't clear them but at least you get to see it. Right after I got the report I decided to buy the full version for 60 bucks. I think it was well worth. Remember you need an adapter to do so. I use an android phone with two cables but you can get a Bluetooth adapter as well. It has to be certain one.

 

thanks

 

OK-I got the app/adapter. These are 2 faults that came up, any idea what they are, I can't find any info. No pops back yet, dealer is baffled too why they stopped after turbo install.


Systems:
Gateway
Tilt sensor defect Code: 00A871
Interior protection defect Code: 00A872

 

Do you have the factory alarm? Tilt sensor is part of the OEM alarm option and interior protection could also refer to tilt sensor not working.

 

hmmmm, don't have an alarm that I'm aware of. It was coded to behave as if it had one-light on cluster pulses when I lock it. Maybe there's a sensor still??

 

You can check for sure on BMWVin.com to see if your car came with the factory alarm. It could have also been retrofitted but you wouldn't have had to custom code it for the light pulses. If the car beeps when locking and unlocking you definitely have the alarm. I wonder if that coding made the car think you have the alarm so it would give you the pulses? I am not sure on that.