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R56 R56 Won't start after clutch replacement...

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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 10:31 AM
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R56 Won't start after clutch replacement...

Hi Guys,

So this past week I replaced the flywheel and clutch on my R56. Got it all back together and the damn thing is dead. Thought it was the battery so I charged it up and tested it and that's not the problem. (Battery a year old). You can hear the car cranking but that's all it will do. No attempt to even begin starting. Also, I have a new Slave cylinder that I was unable to bleed so I will be taking it to the shop to have it bled after I figure out this issue. Not sure if that could be an issue but I've called a mechanic and he doesn't think that's the case. Checked the fuel pump fuse and replaced it. Nothing. The wheels do in fact spin when in gear and trying to start but that's it. I've retraced my steps and found that all connections are good and all the wiring harnesses are plug in and tight. Any help is appreciated!

( Car has about 2/3 tank of gas btw and checked the safety switch and all is good)
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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my first thought would be the crank position sensor either is unplugged or got damaged during the trans removal. it should be underneath on the trans near the axle. you should also check for spark, remove a coil and a spark plug. insert the plug in coil with harness still attached and lay the threads of the plug against something metal and crank to see if you have spark. if you have access to a scanner the faults would help you with a jumping off point.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 03:20 PM
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Hi, thanks for the quick the reply. I checked the crankshaft sensor and it was still in fact plugged in. I then checked for spark and there was a spark. Does it work in a sequenced order where the sensor has to work for there to be the spark? Or is it worth changing out the sensor and giving it a try? I'm assuming the fuel pump is working since after attempting to start it there is a strong smell of fuel from the pipes. Thanks again

Update: Ordered a new crank shaft sensor. Will be here tomorrow morning. I'll update as soon as I have it in the car
 

Last edited by sharmadaven; Jan 2, 2017 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 04:17 PM
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If you drove the car in, replaced the clutch and it doesnt run anymore than it's going to be something you did and more than likely it's going to be something dumb. A lot of the connectors can be plugged into the wrong component and cause many issues. Before you go throwing parts at it you need to see if there are any codes stored.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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Since the car won't start I am unable to read codes...Currently going back over my steps to see if I did something wrong connection wise.
 

Last edited by sharmadaven; Jan 2, 2017 at 04:36 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 10:58 AM
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take a look at the crankshaft sensor plate. The one with teeth that goes behind the flywheel. check also the wiring going to the DME and confirm electricity going through the main fuse block. even with the car not moving, you can still get codes. give it a try.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 03:39 PM
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Replaced crankshaft sensor. No luck. No codes when scanning either. Anyone know what voltage to look for through the wiring on the crankshaft sensor? Also could it be a camshaft sensor?
 
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 02:08 PM
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Update: had the car towed into a shop after spending hours trying to figure out what's wrong with it. They are at the point where they think it's the starter but cannot promise anything. Is it odd to see a starter all the sudden go bad after replacing a clutch? Car only has 106,000 miles on it. They tried a different battery and tested all the electrical components and they're all working. Can't keep throwing money at it. Should I replace the starter or try something else? They said it just sounds like it's not spinning fast enough to get the car to start. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 02:37 PM
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it sounds like they dont know what theyre talking about. i'm an ase master tech working for many years and i've never heard of a starter going too slow to start a car. tell them to push start the car it if thats what they think it is, or atleast give you the print out from their battery tester saying the starter is drawing too much current. im still going to bet you plugged something in the wrong connector or something. did you installed the flywheel in the same position you removed it from?
 
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 03:16 PM
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Pretty sure I installed the flywheel correctly. On the back of it is the alignment hole. If that's in then it should be aligned properly right? Also I will have them print me out the test. I thought $550 was a little crazy to replace the starter since it was working fine right before I took it apart... I'll let you know how the push start goes when I get it back. Man what would I do without triple A🙄 Also tow truck driver thought it might be the fuel filter just throwing it out there. Doesn't sound right but maybe it's a one in a million chance
 
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 03:23 PM
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Getting the starter replaced is straight forward and takes about an hour or less. Buy a used one if it turns out to be dead. When i rebuit a car and was happy to get it started, it wouldnt budge. It had 120k on. Replaced starter and all was good.

Have them pop the clutch to start the car!

Also go back to your garage and see if you missed to install any part.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 08:12 PM
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Turns out the flywheel is jammed.... what in the world could of caused that? I know the disc, flywheel and clutch was properly installed..... took the starter out to ensure that wasn't causing it to jam...
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 06:00 AM
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If the Clutch disc was installed backwards, it will lock up the crank like this. I know you say it was installed correctly but all I can say is I've seen it do this and it prevents the crank from turning. It also makes removal of the transmission really really difficult.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by sharmadaven
You can hear the car cranking but that's all it will do.
trying to understand this in light of the first thing you said.

Maybe we have a different understanding of what cranking means.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 01:33 PM
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Sorry for the confusion maybe I have a different definition of cranking. It sounds like the starter is trying but that's all it will do. Absolutely no sign of it firing. I removed the wheels and put a ratchet on the motor and tried to turn it clockwise but it won't budge no matter how hard I attempt to turn it. Currently removing the drive axles to tear the transmission out again..... Arghhhhhh... Btw shop also believes I installed something incorrectly so maybe I did. I'll post pictures once I have removed the transmission.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 02:09 PM
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A few of us have done it so don't feel bad. The clutch disc has to be installed with the long side of the spline facing the flywheel. if it is installed the other way it makes contact with the guide tube for the release bearing. This damages the spline on the clutch disc causing it to bind on the input shaft of the transmission. So when you remove the transmission bolts and attempt to separate the transmission from the engine it will come apart about 3/4 of an inch and then stop. From that point it takes brute force to get it off and the disc is essentially toast.

I hope I'm wrong because this is a bear to get apart.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 08:15 PM
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"Cranking" means the starter will turn the engine over. It sounds like yours is maybe "clicking", like the starter engages the teeth on the flywheel, but does not turn the engine over? Let us know what you find. I hate doing jobs over again, especially BIG jobs like clutches. Good luck!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 08:17 PM
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Pulled the drive axles off and subframe. I'll have it out tomorrow and let you guys know what I find. Hopefully I did something wrong if I'm digging this far back into it!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
take a look at the crankshaft sensor plate. The one with teeth that goes behind the flywheel. check also the wiring going to the DME and confirm electricity going through the main fuse block. even with the car not moving, you can still get codes. give it a try.
Do you remember putting this ring back on the flywheel between the flywheel and crank? If it's gone the DME won't get a signal that the engine is turning.

Originally Posted by NB Cooper
If the Clutch disc was installed backwards, it will lock up the crank like this. I know you say it was installed correctly but all I can say is I've seen it do this and it prevents the crank from turning. It also makes removal of the transmission really really difficult.
I've also seen people put these in backwards before, but usually if the car is in neutral it will start and you just won't be able to change gears as the clutch won't release.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
Do you remember putting this ring back on the flywheel between the flywheel and crank? If it's gone the DME won't get a signal that the engine is turning.



I've also seen people put these in backwards before, but usually if the car is in neutral it will start and you just won't be able to change gears as the clutch won't release.
No start neutral. The flywheel won't turn even when a ratchet is connected to it. Plate behind flywheel looked intact when looked through the hole where the crankshaft sensor is.... what could cause the flywheel not to turn? Is the spline of the pressure plate ( long side) supposed to be facing the engine or the bell housing?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 06:58 AM
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i think either way you would have to take it apart to investigate.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sharmadaven
No start neutral. The flywheel won't turn even when a ratchet is connected to it. Plate behind flywheel looked intact when looked through the hole where the crankshaft sensor is.... what could cause the flywheel not to turn? Is the spline of the pressure plate ( long side) supposed to be facing the engine or the bell housing?
Did you replace the flywheel bolts? If you put ones in that were too long it will lock up the crank like that
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sharmadaven
Is the spline of the pressure plate ( long side) supposed to be facing the engine or the bell housing?
It faces the engine.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NB Cooper
It faces the engine.
That's the key. I remember having the long side facing the bell housing... having trouble getting the transmission off... will I neee to purchase a new clutch kit?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 07:44 PM
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The disc will be bent for sure and you may need to replace the guide tube for the release bearing.

Yes you will have a very hard time getting it apart because the clutch disc is now damaged and crimped onto the input shaft of the transmission. Get some threaded rod (3 pieces with nuts and washers) and use them to jack the transmission away from the engine evenly. It will take a ton of force but eventually it will let go.
 
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