Ahhhh now you can see. It would be a lot to go through each one there are write ups on each,,,,,,, but A/F ratio used to go for 12 old school, but 14 is ok it can use a super lean mode even higher,,, exhaust gas temps good cat works at 500 deg, cant go over 1600 deg will glow at about 1100, vacuum boost in neg 7 ok depends on air box a little but high pull is better off boost, see if you can get lambda its the correction for the o2 system watch for how it jitters important,,, remember without test sets you have to believe the sensors so save logs to watch for odd inputs,,,, also your logs or updates have lag so in some cases its detective work does that make any sense?

maf air flow is about how much power you make, hp and torque are calculated,,,, raw signals are often in voltage 5volt standard or (PID look that up)

dont discount mechanical gauges they are often more accurate and durable

 

hmmm watch fuel rail pressure it should go up to 1500psi or up in that range,,, 700-800 ok for holding pressure

 

I will take it out tomorrow and get some running numbers. Tonight is another first date night lmao. Have a mini cooper club luau tomorrow and want to take my baby

 

Car seems to be running solid now. Only cel I throw time to time relates to the high flow cat and I expect that. Below is a screenshot after a nice run.

 

Dont forget to use higher rpms a bit during break in, the fuel pressure looks good. can you make graphs showing time on one axis,,, for intake temps I try to stay under 120 deg F, each engine is a bit different for this, in hot weather if you dont have an Aquamist system you need to be careful. the exhaust temps should be about the max. the lower 11 AFR is rich and in response to a quick boost, higher ratios tends to run hotter and closer to detonation. 11 lb/min looks ok for that rpm, these engines can be tuned for lower end boost or more mid boost and 15-25 or more lb/min and when Im at the track I stay mostly 3000 to 6500+ I have the rev limiter off. and you should be able to get more sensors? of course this was at a closed area for vehicle speed. Seems like all is working out any oil leaks?

 

I'm a little concerned about the exhaust temp being high but watch it. No leaks of any kind but I'm thinking there could a leak with the valve cover. The seal is good but it's making a hissing sound near the fill cap but not the cap itself. Other than that it feels and sounds great.

 

how do you have the engine crank case vented?

 

Standard connections. I have an oil catch can to connect but still need some time to finish that.

 

exhaust and turbos just are hot so far looks ok, but yes just keep an eye on it. graph,,,,,,

Hint,,,,,, the crank case oil vapor will run to the intakes and cylinders and get on the piston Di will not clean sadly,,,,, yes the catch-can will help,,,,, but a large 12 or 16 AN fitting run through the valve cover not from the vent valves (standard spot) will allow gasses out, go to the catch can and then vent (for racing),,,,, and leave your engine cleaner,,,, still a little carbon from gas being burned but so much better, there will be some pressure instead of vacuum so rings will seat a little less but better than the cylinders getting fouled and no seal. to get vacuum as well you need a drysump or air pump.

 

I will look into this setup. I am planning on working on the oil catch can this weekend if I have time.

 

I can lend you a test valve cover if you would like its a bit of a bodged up piece meant to come apart and may need some sealing but its ok. just keep an eye on your intercooler for a while check once a week, the intake manifold has a few spots that collect stuff as well, but its too much trouble to check.

 

How did you do your venting? Do you have any good links on a diy? I've seen several options in ruining the oil catch can.

 

messed around with this alot this is the test cover, When using catch-cans for cleaning I use 2 in series then filter-boxes and regulators its about fittings and plumbing you just need large hoses and outlets. An AN type fitting should be OK I just always make stuff,,, look through the catalogs, race stuff, if you do get stuck Ill help but its great fun,,, used fitting are fine as well or plumbing etc people use all kinds of things for catch cans
sketch stuff out here is a race vent system simple plastic catch-cans.


the idea is to get as little pressure in the block or some vacuum if possible

Does this make any sense?

here is a set up just off the intake side standard out,,, with two blue cans,,, hoses can be glued together,,, you can see how catchcans work ok as the first gets more and the second just a tiny bit

P1020060

 

thanks for the tips. I will try and work on this over the weekend. I will see what I can come up with. Kinda have a lot going on unfortunately.

 

Euler-Spiral here are the pics

 

Good read, as I have found low compression on my 110,000 motor and will be doing this probably next year.

 

What tune do you run to get 11.1afr at 3600rpm?

Also @Euler-Spiral, you say he should get 1500psi at the fuel rail. Are you talking when he is in wot? At Idle from what I understand 745psi is normal.

Thank you

 

should be holding about 700 engine off then go to somewhere in the area of 1500, it moves a bit maybe 1200+ at the lower end, 11.1 was a minimum the program recorded if you can watch lambda it shows the corrections, the rate of recording or speed of connection can be an issue you may not get all the ECU info in real time or without missing data

 

ATM I do not have a tune. Was planning on it this month (after break in) but due to the failed axle and some unexpected court cost this month I will be pushing that off a month or two. I have not been able to fine anyone willing or able to dyno tune it in my area for some reason so I will most likely be going with one of the stage 2 or 3 can tunes.