So I have my 08 R56 mini cooper s engine back in the car. Everything is back on minus the bumper and headlights. I tried to bleed the clutch and noticed brake fluid in the boot of the slave cylinder and can't get clutch pressure so I will be replacing that... Now onto the engine. With the car in neutral I am able to get the car to fire up (sometimes) and run for about 20-30 sec then it stalls out. I should also say that the exhaust connection from the down-pipe to the main exhaust is broken and will not be fixed till I have it running. My question is where do I even begin to look since everything has been redone from the piston, rods, head, cams, water pump almost everything that bolts on to the engine..

This is my 1st ever rebuild and honestly I triple check everything along the way thanks to my OCD and not wanting to screw things up. The engine is really loud and thats to be expected but I never heard anything that would make me concerned as far as internals. It does run after all and with an interference engine I would know if I was hitting things in there like the valves. Maybe I am impatient and it needs more time to get the fuel etc thru the system? Is there a bleeding process for when the fuel rail and injectors are disassembled? I did get the injectors cleaned and replaced all the seals while there. I am leaning towards a fuel issues but could be a sensor or whatever.

Any guidance would truly be appreciated. I feel I am close to being there but my inexperience in rebuilding an engine leaves me with some questions but do not let this make you think I am not mechanically inclined. I have truly been enjoying this rebuild.

 

Speculation: It sounds to me like you're initially getting fuel into the system, but for some reason the fuel is cutting off after a few seconds. Might be a sensor problem that's telling the fuel pump to shut down?

 

Hard to say. I feel like the computer is shutting it down early not the engine per say. I do believe the fuel rail has a sensor on it but I know I connected it. I did have to pull the intake off to replace the starter. I will double check that I didnt accidentally unhook something.

I am still smiling. Been a long job but I have learned so much and continuing to have fun! I just want this beast on the road lol. Have to remind myself to relax and breath. Thanks for the thoughts!

 

You might check the charge pipes between the turbo and the intake...an open connection could cause it to stall like that...

 

Man that's a problem hahaha! really hard to diagnose it without looking at it! just like some of the other guys are saying look at your fuel and any kind of vacuum leaks!!! are you throwing any codes in that 30 seconds it runs? did you use new fuel lines? from the pump to the firewall? and pump to rail? sounds kind of silly but that line is pressurized and does require a vacuum tight seal! if you took it off when rebuilding the motor then just threw it back on it does not seal right might be worth looking into! try starting it and let it die! then go loosen the line going to the fuel rail to pump and see if any fuel squirts out!

 

I was thinking the same thing about the main fuel line to the HPFP. I replaced it and when I put it on it locked but was moving a little. I'm going back to work on it tomorrow night and will check it out. It's all good. All the hard work is hopefully over and just need to hunt this issue down then back to the curves lol. I will admit it is very frustrating though. Its hard diagnosing when you replaced everything lol.

I am going ot put my code reader on it tomorrow also. I dont believe it has any codes yet.

 

You need to get a scan tool on the car and see what codes come back, as well as watch PIDs as the car runs.

If the timing was out you'd either have cam codes, or a mess on your hands..

Are all of the sensors properly plugged in? Some of the connectors are the same and can be swapped around if not paid proper attention to.

 

Most of the connectors were "keyed". I dont think any are in wrong location but can double check. I do not believe the timing is off. I used the correct tools and even double checked it with straws thru the spark plug holes to make sure I was at 90 deg BTDC and when I installed the flywheel the tool almost slid right in. Just needed a little wiggle! If valves were in the way I would have heard them getting smashed lol. I did have to replace the plug to the thermostat but I do not think that would cause this and it fit good. I took photos of everything. Assembly was actually quite simple. The only think I dont have connected are the oxygen sensors. I was going to leave them off since I was going with performance downpipe. Would that be of any issue at this point?

 

P.S. thank you guys for the advice. I truly appreciate it! Been a long job working alone. I will get there soon.

 

The reason the car doesn't run is because the lambda sensor isn't plugged in. Plug the primary sensor in and it'll run fine.

 

Does that make me a noob? I will try that tonight!

 

Ok so I finally had time to look into things. I got the o2 sensor connected and replaced my original starter. I went to fire it up and the new starter several times cranked, fired up 20 sec and is now locked up from attempting to crank it. Battery is on the charger now. I am wondering why the starter could be having so much trouble cranking. I am going to pull the starter again and have the new battery tested. I pulled the plugs and there is no fluid in the chamber and the oil is clean as can be. With the starter jammed of course I can't manually turn the crankshaft. I am a bit stressed atm and keep jumping all over the place at what could be the issue. I did put a new clutch in during the build. Could this be causing any issues? I also just replace the clutch slave due to a leak and not disengaging the clutch properly. I did get misfires on all cylinders but I cleared these codes thinking that could have been due to the fuel delivery having air in the system. Without it running I can’t tell if it’s still going to misfire.

 

I crank the engine by hand for a bit,,, watch the handle new they kinda throw. how old is the gas and how much was sitting? Also was the fuel line left open? It can take a few tries to get an engine started if air is in the fuel and its old fuel. Also under the intake is a messy, rats nest, so go through it again. also check ground connections on the harness. was the battery old and sitting

 

Can you borrow an oem cat from someone? I could send you one if needed if you cover shipping

 

Starter jammed ? how does it feel to turn the engine over? It should have super compression so kind of build up then spring down. Cars in neutral? new battery fully charged how many cranks did you get?

 

I have the oem cat but I am not even able to get the new starter to crank atm. It jammed.

When I hit the start button it just has a large click. If I manually try turning the crankshaft with the plugs out it doesnt budge but again I had this happen last week and i had to loosten the starter and hit it then it would crank the engine so I think the binding is coming between the starter and the flywheel not the engine itself. Now its stuck again and I am leaning to pulling it and replacing the starter since thats only about 1 hr time and no money. The battery did loose its charge. I have it on the charger now. When I tried to start it yesterday I had it connected to jumpers. All other power seemed strong. I am going to take the battery for test tonight as well even though its only 4 months old. I believe the ground wires should all be solid. I cleaned all the surfaces during the build with a wheel wire brush....

I appreciate all the help. I just panic its internal but honestly if it cranked and fired up I think it lies with the starter and battery.

 

the starter should disengage on its own. the fly wheel sits on the crank well so I cant see that being off, Is this a stock dual mass fly wheel? yes pull the starter. confirm the engine turns. If the starter is not disengaging it will be quickly destroyed and cause considerable resistance but as the engine hasnt run its a bit strange. is the flywheel ring gear and outer flywheel on the dual mass loose can it be moved about, there is some play to it. you can use the clutch now? and release the pressure? when attaching the trans did it all fit well without the bolts? try taping your phone and recording one revolution of the ring gear maybe it can be confirmed to be running true and all the teeth are ok, also something with the wiring?

 

Batteries need to be fully charged,,,,, chargers unless they have a start function are not enough. the engine should turn freely, what had to banged? was that after the starter was out? If so and it happens again dont bang anything until you work out what is sticking.

 

Oh use the oem down pipe if you can just to get it started

 

Yes stock flywheel. When it ran for 30 sec it seemed to be running like it does with a vacuum leak. I have not had the chance to investigate that since I got the clutch slave fixed and yes it has pressure now. I will test the movement after pulling the starter. I am assuming it is the starter holding it up since it has cranked a lot. I was just assuming the not firing was due to getting the fuel thru the line to the engine in the beginning.

As for the trans to engine I had the engine on the ground, lifted the trans with the engine hoist and aligned them up and pulled them together slowly using the bolts in a crisscross pattern. It went together fairly easily but wasn't like I could just slide it in by hand. I didnt feel anything that would have caused me concern such as binding. I will need to check the flywheel gear play after the starter is out. I only know I couldnt advance the engine crankshaft with the starter locked.

 

I just meant I loosened the starter itself and tapped it kinda hard to disengage it. It cranked after then got jammed again.

 

Also even being jumped (by another car) it can still be an issue? Just curious. I will have it tested tonight to rule it out.

Thank you

 

I agree with this...sure sounds like the starter - bendix gear maybe....

 

Its probably ok,,, but get the trans all the way in before bolts. Ive done this a few times and have snugged with bolts as its a pain resetting it many times,,, but its a bit of a risk if you havent felt the alignment before.

with the starter out and battery charged you can check the starter to see that the thing works with jumpers. or get it checked. if the starter gears are sliding out ok and its spinning up then its back to the flywheel. If it got jammed and wouldnt release its a gear fit. set the clutch free,,, down,,, with a board from seat to pedal does the engine rotate ok, let up is it stuck?

 

I am ready to set it on fire lol. I am getting stressed. I think its a minor issue but honestly this is the biggest project i have done.