Hi all.

"Is there a tool that allows you to replace the valve springs with the head still on?"

I am working hard to problem solve my vanos engine codes that have thrown up recently after we rebuilt the entire engine. The only part that isn't new factory spec or still stock but perfect on the head are the supertech uprated beehive valve springs and titanium retainers. To eliminate that potential issue I want to swap back to standard valve springs and see if that fixes it or not. Is there a tool that allows you to replace the valve springs with the head still on?

Can anyone confirm they run the supertech beehive springs and the titanium retainers with zero issues?

Thanks
Steven

 

Your best bet to change the valve springs with the head on would be to pressurize the cylinders with compressed air through the spark plug holes, and basically disassemble down to the valves. If things go south you'll be pulling the head to do the work, at which point you'll need all new TTY hardware and new head gasket, supporting gaskets, injector seals.

You will need new TTY bolts for the timing cassette, timing tools, and proper torque wrench.

What mods do you have that you feel the stiffer springs were warranted?

 

Hi Nick,


I have all the timing tools (two sets... one better than the e-bay cheap ones..) having just completed a high spec forged re-building including closing the deck with custom pistons, Carrillo rods etc etc etc. 12mm ARP head studs and so on. Basically a full on build. I do appreciate that if I lose a valve collet down into the oil gallery or the combustion chamber somehow, that I will have an issue.


I do expect to tear the head down to just the valves and springs.


I'd be interested in how you are suggesting we get enough consistent pressure down on the valve retainer to allow me to release and then much more challengingly replace the valve collets (can't recall what Americans call the little half moon valve neck collets)?


Pressurising the cylinder would be fine, we could make an adaption for the sparkplug hole.


As for why I think I need harder valve springs: We were previously running 7,000 rpm and 270 bhp on a hybrid turbo. We are planning on adding a second 63mm turbo under the boot and twin charging the engine (big turbo outlet feeds small turbo inlet) and have the potential to run up to 3 bar boost on our low compression forged engine build. There is a lot of conflicting chat on higher boost engines needing harder valve springs and rather than finding out later, I went for 20-25% harder springs. At some point we may rev the engine quite a bit higher too and that with the high boost, seemed to be a sensible option.


Inputs welcomed as we are open to any experience or learning.


Cheers,
Steven_RW

 

Perhaps too late for your project, but this is a thread on what I did to accomplish a seal job on my N12. Your N14 is actually a lot easier as there's no Valvetronic to deal with. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...c-job-diy.htmlThere are links to a couple of videos as well. The tool that I used is all homemade stuff. In hindsight, I would suggest one of the "girder" type tools that I've seen that look like this: (note that I haven't used one on this engine, just thought it looked like a way better tool for the job than what I built.
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8