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R56 HELP.. windows squeaking

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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 02:32 PM
  #1  
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HELP.. windows squeaking

I have read some.. but need peeps you have had some experience.

I have r56 2008 hardtop with comfort pkg.

Both windows are squeaking something fierce.. going up or down. This just because as the Winter season broke...

The dealer says it's the regulators... what do the regulators do? if the windows work, would it still be regulators? the dealers wants 1285.00 plus tax.. Just in this past month I have put in 2k. (includes all new brakes 1k) ... Is this normal that this car now is sucking money?

Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated..any!!!! thanks Vix
 
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 05:45 AM
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Pull the door panel off and try to isolate the source of the noise.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by devicemanager
Pull the door panel off and try to isolate the source of the noise.

Thanks, do you have a video recommendation on how to do this... Is this a difficult task?

I am a novice at this sort of thing.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 11:21 PM
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Before dis-assembling anything, try spraying some silicone spray lubricant down all your rubber window-guide channels. Don't be shy about using it....needs to run down the widow guides some, into the door. Work the windows up and down as you spray. The worst thing that could happen is that you may have to clean the silicone off of your windows a bit. Worth a shot. And way cheaper than replacing internal door parts.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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I want to thank you all.. I put silicon spray down the window.. At first I was spraying it all over, inside the door.. that did nothing.. then I went and checked out a picture of the regulator on line, and sprayed where I imagined would be the channels. I think I may have used 1/2 a can all in all.. the stuff was dripping out the door... (messy) Anyway.. I tried it only on the drivers side and so far the squeaking has stopped. So thank you renchjeeb. Yeah, the window is a bit messy, however, its getting better and the silence is fab. cheers! Vix

Oh, what should I use to greasy the door hinges?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 09:10 AM
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Its either the rails on the seals or the window regulator sliders or pulleys. You will have to pull the inside door panel off to inspect.

But it looks like you fixed it. You can use the sunroof grease on the door brake , for the pivot hinges WD40 or simliar.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 07:40 PM
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This has been plaguing our car since the hot weather. I tried everything mentioned here without luck. I finally removed the door panel and the inner panel so the window was loose but attached to the inner panel.

I can assure you its not the pads/seals the windows rub against. I even tried sopping them with silicon lube after a good cleaning and all it did was make a mess. After a lot of work and inspection - at least in this case - the noise was coming from the pulleys and cable that runs on them and through the casing. Like a bicycle cable.

Once I lubed them several times the squeaking went away. I suspect its a bad cable housing etc that eventually with the weather change and mechanical function over a period of time gets very dry and the inner cable housing completely dries out which it really shouldn't.

I removed the regulator and did all that was mentioned here. It made absolutely no difference.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 05:42 AM
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Thanks for the update , so its was the pulley / cable that created the noise ?
 
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 06:24 AM
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100%
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 04:07 PM
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still squealing when hot out

Anyone else find a resolution? Dealer wants to replace the regulator and motor $600+ for each window. That is silly.

I tested the motor and the noise doesn't come from there.
The glass is not the issue. From silicon to Rainx etc no change.
Since it is known to only be an issue when its hot out there must be a simple lubricating issue.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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If it's cables, why not get a bicycle cable luber, $10.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 05:33 PM
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Agreed. Hard to access the cables. Is there a video or photo on how to get to it? I can remove the main panel and sub panel but getting directly to the window mechanism requires something more.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2016 | 07:03 AM
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Ha,
Ironically, I just brought it to the dealer!!! I had my local mechanic look at it. It's all enclosed parts. He said it would be a lot to fix.. I got a price of 660 from dealer to fix.. I will let you know what happens. On the passenger door, it did squeal until I put silicon on it. That stopped that side. I asked the dealer to JUST look at that side. It is pricey.. My MacMini just turned 90k, 2008. I do love this car more than the new ones... I like the small size.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2016 | 08:17 AM
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Please let me know. Makes me crazy. Since its a known issue affecting all MINI owners it is a design flaw and should be a recall..

I agree 100% that these are faster, stop better, handle better and all around a better sports car experience than the new ones. Several people have admitted the new ones are more BMW and less MINI.

Silicone that creates lots of streaking on the window. The driver's side is worse but the pass does it as well.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2016 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Nui
Silicone that creates lots of streaking on the window. The driver's side is worse but the pass does it as well.

Ha, very very streaky!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 03:06 PM
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I finally gave up and thanks to a great detailed description by Pelican Parts I took the entire door assembly apart.

Here's what I found that created the squeal/squeaking.

1. On the rails that the gear travels up and down for the window there wasn't any lube left on the rails. Dried up or used up.
2. There are 4 plastic wheels that collar and guide the cable that works the regulator gears above. They needed cleaning and liberal amounts of silicon on the cable and inside the wheels where the affix to the anchoring stud. Clean then spray - wipe off excess. Spray again. Run the assembly several times, repeat until the noise disappears.
3. Now I understand what the instruction meant when they said the plastic clips being bad then the entire door panel must be replaced. That's insane and a very bad design. The MINI parts person told me the newer ones have replaceable clips because the 'engineers finally figured it out'.

The rear rail had pretty much broken away. The plastic U-shaped holder is poorly designed and the rails only are held in by 1/3 of the clip. Instead of buying a whole new panel I drilled the area and put a tie-lock in there. Once the outer panel is put on you will never see it. Chances are even with it off you will never see it. This stopped the window from flexing loose at half open.

It has nothing to do with the pads the window slides on. Its just bad design and not enough lube or proper lube that doesn't dry out. HTH. It takes a good amount of time - about 2-3 hours so schedule it as not to rush yourself. As with anything I could do it quickly now but the first time is a learning experience.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 04:51 PM
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Great post NUI!
Happy that you figured it out. Do you have any pictures to post?


I just got my car back and the window is now working properly. It cost me $606. I wish I had the confidence to do what you just described. Perhaps, if the other window goes, I'll refer back to your post. How much did it end up costing in parts?

Again, great job!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:53 AM
  #18  
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All the needed pictures are in the link. I probably should have taken a couple close ups, but the link shows most of everything.

Parts cost? Maybe $1.50 worth of Silicon spray and lithium grease.

It is challenging when you look at all of the pictures. Really though, it just takes patience and confidence you can do it - which you can. There's no reason to spend the money to get an entirely new regulator when 20 minutes with the original will yield the same results.

The biggest trick is the window. There are two door caps that once removed will allow you to unscrew the window from the regulator. HOWEVER, the window needs to be in the right position vertically to see the bolts. About 3/4 down is right. Just keep playing with the window switch until your see them.

Otherwise, its much easier with that link than when I did it it (incorrectly) during a soundproofing stint.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 06:57 PM
  #19  
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One last comment. Be aware of the window alignment front to back. The hole in the window is very large. Ours was starting to bump at a certain point. I checked the passenger side and saw the driver was too far forward. 10 minutes later it was aligned perfectly and no bump. As smooth as when it was new. Smoother than the passenger side now.

While you're at it put some lube on the door hinge. You'll see its dried out. This doesn't require removing anything. Just open the door.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 03:21 PM
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Its been weeks now and the temp has gotten high enough to cause squeaking on the passenger side window..... but NONE on the lubed driver's side!

Only downside is my wife is now demanding I do the passenger side window. hahaha
 
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