I have a quick question. My AC hasn't been working at all. The system is just blowing air. The system calls for 1.08 lbs +- of refrigerant. Am I safe to just add a 12oz can of 134A to recharge?

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First off your system has to be checked for a leak. Then if the system is tight you have to draw a vacuum and then you can add the 134A. Best to take the car to a local A/C company to have the entire system checked. I have played with A/C systems for many years and if you do not know what you are doing it will be cheaper to bring it to a expert. I have seen systems 15 years old that still work fine. You might only have a leaking O ring. Bring it to a pro and have it fixed right. It will be cheaper in the long run.

 

I totally agree and understand the proper way to resolve and recharge the system. One of the local MINI/BMW shops quoted $180 to recharge the system. I figured for that amount I would try just running a can of 134A into it. With that said, would a 12oz can be a safe choice to prevent the chance of overfilling the 1.08lb+- capacity?

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No...just don't dump a full can in....
It might just need 3 ounces or it might be empty...
And no need to get it serviced at a "BMW/MINI" shop....it is a standard system....any shop with the right tools can do it.

Issue is a low psi switch deactivates the compressor when the r134a is low....
So if you have a leak, it could be empty....or could be just a tiny bit low....
Self service ac work can save a ¢, but often costs you more $$$.
If the compressor is cycling...and it is just slightly warm from being low, then it can usually be topped off with one of the consumer refill kits....
But once the compressor has been turned off....it get more tricky...folks have been known to bumper the psi switch....but imo find a shop, and spend the $50-100 for a pro.

 

If you don't have a vacuum pump to evacuate properly and a set of ac manifold gauges you will do more harm than good.

 

One other thing i should have mentioned before doing anything is if you are at all handy check all the A/C lines under the hood and the condenser in front of the radiator for any oil stains. If you notice any stains on the condenser or any connections that have a film of oil you have a leak and must have it repaired by someone who knows what they are doing and have the right equipment. I know you can buy 134A at various auto parts stores and even in some hardware stores but trying to add additional gas requires more then a simple connection and a can of 134A. If you lost quite a bit of lubricant this will also have to be replaced, You could run the risk of damage to the compressor and that could be quite costly.

 

Not a good idea. The systems also have lubricant in them, and if you have no refrigerant you have a leak which must be found. This is a case in which you should take it to a pro and ask them to leak-check and diagnose it for you. Once they find the leak, you can talk with them about whether you want them to do repairs of if you want to DIY.

I've done three AC systems myself - had the old system vacuumed out by a shop, then took it home, replaced parts (compressor, drier, orifice screen and O-rings) then left the compressor electrical connection off, took it back to the shop and had them connect the compressor, then charge the system for me. Saved me hundreds in labor.

 

If you are going to diy it, that's the right way.....
Issues are if the system gets moisture in it, it destroys the compressors....
And any air in the system...happens if it has lost pressure, reduces efficiency to the point it will barely blow cool air...never mind cold....
And the old real way to make sure you get the right amount if oil in the system is to pull a vacume....and usually the dryer, the long thinggy , looks like a tube or resivior, is replaced...it dies two things....it has removes moisture that might be left as the system us refilled, but most importantly it functions as a filter....if the compressor fails, it sends shrapnel into the system... the dryer catches most if it ...but many replace other parts since they are so cheap to ensure a good outcome....
Here is the issue ...
To try to save $100 or so you just fill it up...maybe it's overfilled...maybe it works..maybe you just a hose...or the compress fails....
To ask if I add "x" will it be safe is like saying...
"I have an oil leak....the red light is on...I don't have a dipstick...I bought a few bottles of oil...how many do I add?".
Need I say more?
The typical diy Walmart kits with a hose and one guage advertised on TV with the psi guage on the can only be used if the compressor is running...so the system is not so low that it is turned off...
Other issue is the extra "universal" lube they add tends to be kinda iffy...and lots of folks need a new compressor in a couple years....sure it makes it work... sometimes ...but thec$30 can and the quick fix costs you $1200.......

 

I'm pretty handy and have done all the work on my vehicles myself, including the MINI. I did bring it in for an AC check today and a leak couldn't be detected during that check and it wasn't overfilled! That was good news to me as I did jump the gun and add some refrigerant. I am getting cold air coming through now! I got quotes from 3 different places for the correct way to recharge and it ranged from 150-180-189.

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If your refrigerant was low, there is a leak. The A/C is a closed system. Down on refrigerant equals a leak somewhere. Just my 2 cents. Hope it continues to work for you.

 

Hey everyone. I've been trying to recharge my A/C system as well. I have a 2009 Mini Cooper and I'm not sure which is the low side port to recharge the system. I'm pretty sure it's the valve with the black cover on the right side of the engine bay, near the dipstick of the car, but I'm not sure. Would someone please help me with this, thanks =).

 

The proper way is to use the following: a set of gauges and a tank of R134, a vaccume pump and a mail scale. Diest hook up the gauges to your cars high and low side valves. Hook the gauges to the vaccume pump. Turn on the pump and open both gauge valves. Vacuum the system for 1/2 hour. Shut off pump and shut the gauge valves. Leave the system hooked up for half hour. Watch and see if the system stays vacuum. Hook the gauges up to the freon tank and put the tank on the scale. Zero the scale. Open the high side valve and allow the amount of freon needed to enter the system. Shut off the freon tank and start your car. You should have cold air.