From my understanding a electronic boost controller will not work. What about a manual boost controller?

 

Some info here, its been talked about before.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ontroller.html

&

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-my-boost.html

 

You need to learn about waste gates before adding a boost controller --- like eliminate the OEM waste gate, actuator, tank and hoses, then add a positive-pressure waste gate. After this, you need an ECU re-map.

You'd be better off just going for the re-map, unless you want to get serious about the power craze, then it's new turbo, re-map, plus lotsa other "stuff". It's addicting.

 

I'm 42 yrs old and I've been dashing"in and out" of the underground racing scene in Louisville, KY ever since I picked up my license in '96. Fast forward to now. Finally I can afford to build a forced induction car like I've always wanted. I decided to go with a '10 Mini Clubman S because in Louisville you dont see a lot of Minis in the race scene... They're all Hondas, Nissans and Mustangs. I like to be different and I enjoy a challenge. I absolutely knew nothing about Minis when I bought my Clubman S. The only thing that I was 100% about was that I loved the car itself. It was fun to drive it looked damn good and that ever since I saw The Italian Job I have always wanted one! So I bought one through Carvana. The owner before me went with fully adjustable Gecko coilovers. I have never heard of Gecko until I saw the coilovers on my car. They seem to be pretty good though because the car handles damn good! The guy also went with a MagnaFlow Exhaust... I'm not sure why he picked MagnaFlow (guess he was on a budget), but again it's not bad. It actually sounds really good. Its gotta nice deep gurgle. When I got a hold of the car I did a little research of what I should do next. Of course I immediately installed an intake. That's something I didnt have to look up. Anybody who has fooled around with cars even a little knows that an intake is the easiest way to gain a few ponies. I went with an AEM cold/ram air. Then I replaced that small intercooler with an off brand performance one. As much as I wanted to spend the money on a name brand all the posts I've read pointed me to the one I have now. Next I put on a Milltek catless downpipe. Finally to make it all work I flashed my ECU with a Stage 2 Tune from MaloneTuning and threw on a Cravenspeed short throw shifter for *****-n-giggles. So...m very 1sty Mini is fast, but not nearly fast enough. I want more... God do I want more, but I'm at the point now where anything I do is going to be expensive. Hell, the stage 2 tune was $850! This addition is going to break me... But hey... I'll be fast!

 

I need to bring my clubby down from Cincy and visit you sir. I will be 42 end of this month 😉

 

A few more "bolt-on" upgrades that are less expensive ---

-ICI pipe --- replace the plastic OEM version with a larger diameter, smoother flowing pipe. PITA to install but adds about ten more HP.
-Hotchkis HSport Competition rear sway (anti-roll) bar. No HP gains, but lotsa handling improvement. It's also adjustable.
-Heat range 8 spark plugs, i.e., NGK1422. Your current mods will stress/break the OEM heat range 7 plugs.
-Boost gauge - even if you don't go crazy with boost, a gauge is great for learning how/when your upgrades perform.
-OBD Scanner - a must for troubleshooting your upgrade workmanship/performance.

When you're ready for more expensive upgrades, I suggest a WMI system. This'll add HP and reliability --- about a 50 - 50 mix for reliability (minimizing valve stem crud build-up), and 80 - 20 or so for HP gains. Any mix ratio will add some HP by cooling the air inlet temp, but you should consider another tune to fully enable the WMI benefits.

Have fun and keep us posted ---