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Just replaced both rear sway bar end links on my 2010 MCS (70 k mi). Both were replaced previously, at around 35 - 40 k mi. I used OEM parts at that time.
It's a pretty easy DIY but, still, is there a more durable replacement part option out there? The car has a Hotchkis bar, if that matters.
I have a noisy back end. Sounds like my hatch is open. At my last oil change I was told it could be a sway bar or spring??? What something like that cost to repair. I cant DIY for something like this. No patience
If it's just the end links, not too hard at all. If it's the swaybar mount bushings, there is a bit more involved. I replaced my rear swaybar with an ALTA adjustable 19mm recently, and had to drop the whole rear subframe a bit to get it done. I was able to do it at home, however, with the car up on jackstands, and by myself. I am a mechanic for a living, but this MINI is my first, so still learning the ins and outs. I installed some used ALTA adjustable sway bar links during the install. They are Heim joints, and rattle like crazy, just as you have described. Sounds like my hatch is not latched. I will most likely purchase the WMW end links soon. The rattle is getting annoying! The handling, however, is MUCH improved! Live and learn. Motor On!
We have our Maxx-G Sway bar links that are made up of military grade aluminum center adjuster sleeves with forged alloy steel high strength sealed tie-rod ends.
$159 Plus free shipping going on till the end of the month!
I have a noisy back end. Sounds like my hatch is open. At my last oil change I was told it could be a sway bar or spring??? What something like that cost to repair. I cant DIY for something like this. No patience
The endlinks are a 30 minute job to replace if you drag your feet, and carry about an 85% chance of being your problem. Sway bar bushings are a suspect if you have an aftermarket sway bar, but I've also seen one other car with a stock bar that needed bushings.
We offer both stock end links and our Powergrid options which are very resilient units, but Waylen was here first so I digress.
We have any of the above listed failure point replacements on hand, if you need them or help in diagnosing feel free to give us a call.
You wouldn't be replacing the endlinks in another 40K miles if you were to use the Powergrid options offered by either WMW or us at Detroit Tuned, other than that there won't be any performance gains or anything like that.
I have a noisy back end. Sounds like my hatch is open. At my last oil change I was told it could be a sway bar or spring??? What something like that cost to repair. I cant DIY for something like this. No patience
Yes, this is what the sway bar links sound like when they go. In fact I tried to rule out a problem with the hatch the first time one of the end links went bad. It is also very similar to what the stock sway bar bushings sounded like when they had to be replaced under warranty at around 30 k miles. Neither one of them is an expensive repair. Replacement bushings are very cheap and the end links list for ~ $35 ea at the dealer. Installation should be no more than an hour for either.
Part of the advantage of going with the H-sport rear bar is that the bushings can be lubed with a grease gun. The mounts have zerk fittings - a nice feature. Hopefully that will extend their life. I give them a shot of grease once or twice a year, usually when doing the swap between summer and winter tires.
A couple of weeks after I installed my RSB I started getting a bad rattle from the back. I tightened up the nuts on the endlinks and it went away. A couple of weeks later it came back, so I backed off the nuts, put some Loctite Blue on the threads, and tightened everything back up. It has been quiet for ~3 years now.
Try it - quick, easy, and cheap. If that wasn't the problem then all it cost you was a tube of Loctite which you should have in the garage anyway.
Good advice on the loctite. I used it when I installed the rear bar. My issue has been play that eventually develops in the ball joint (Heim joint?) of the stock end link. All of the nuts were tight and torqued to spec when the rattle appeared.
The Bentley manual tells you to replace the self-locking nuts every time you remove the end links. The stock nut is apparently intended as a one-time-use item. Unfortunately, when you buy the genuine MINI end link it doesn't come with replacement nuts. Loctite served well as an alternate approach for 3 years until the link itself developed play in the joint.
I have a noisy back end. Sounds like my hatch is open. At my last oil change I was told it could be a sway bar or spring??? What something like that cost to repair. I cant DIY for something like this. No patience
