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R56 New mods.

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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 09:22 PM
  #1  
renchjeep's Avatar
renchjeep
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New mods.

2011 R56S. Just added an Alta 19mm rear swaybar, Alta adjustable rear swaybar links, a Racing Dynamics front strut tower brace, and an Alta hot-side turbo tube. Mounted the links on the "softest" setting on the bar, end links at stock length. MAN, what a difference! Totally changed the handling, as I now have nuetral handling, even a bit of lift-off oversteer. A couple questions, if I may.

I understand the bar settings, but what would adjusting the end links do for my handling?

I am noticing a light rattle from the rear on "jittery" roads. I suspect the end links, as I did buy them used. They felt tight, so can I assume that bit of a rattle is normal with the heim-joint end links?

Does the DSC off button turn the DSC off completely on a 2011, or is there still some DSC nannying? (I assume that DSC off has no effect on ABS, right?)

Ok, that was more than a couple question, LOL. Any info/enlightenment will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Chris
 
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 07:26 PM
  #2  
Ghetto Mr Bob's Avatar
Ghetto Mr Bob
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The DSC does effect ABS but to what extent, I don't know.

From what I can tell, when DSC is off, it's completely off. Go to an empty parking lot and dump the clutch from high RPM...with DSC off you'll roast tires all day and DSC won't do a thing about it. When it's on it's definitely naggy about wheelspin though.

As for the end links..I assume that heim joints use some sort of lube/grease on them like most other joints. Did you check to see if they are sufficiently greased? I know that I've read somewhere on here that heim joints can get noisy with age/use.


On a side note, I also just installed my sway bar about 2 weeks ago and it is a massive improvement in turn-in and body roll. I tested mine out this past weekend around a round about (dead end, nobody around) and instead of leaning and tire squeal the rear kicked out and started sliding . The other thing I've noticed with the increased stiffness is it'll three wheel over deep-ish gutters and when jacking from the frame in the front, the whole side lifts (found that out as I was installing my EBC pads and Centric rotors today).

P.S. How do you like that brake setup? I just installed today and didn't drive much but the bite seems better already.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 06:05 AM
  #3  
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Helix13mini
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From: Under your car
Some aftermarket drop links are made from very cheap heim joints which rattle from day one. There is no need for adjustable drop links unless you have a coil over (individually height-adjustable) suspension. With stock or simpe lowering springs, stick with the factory drop links.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 07:58 AM
  #4  
renchjeep's Avatar
renchjeep
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From: Aguanga, CA
Originally Posted by Ghetto Mr Bob
The DSC does effect ABS but to what extent, I don't know.

From what I can tell, when DSC is off, it's completely off. Go to an empty parking lot and dump the clutch from high RPM...with DSC off you'll roast tires all day and DSC won't do a thing about it. When it's on it's definitely naggy about wheelspin though.

As for the end links..I assume that heim joints use some sort of lube/grease on them like most other joints. Did you check to see if they are sufficiently greased? I know that I've read somewhere on here that heim joints can get noisy with age/use.


On a side note, I also just installed my sway bar about 2 weeks ago and it is a massive improvement in turn-in and body roll. I tested mine out this past weekend around a round about (dead end, nobody around) and instead of leaning and tire squeal the rear kicked out and started sliding . The other thing I've noticed with the increased stiffness is it'll three wheel over deep-ish gutters and when jacking from the frame in the front, the whole side lifts (found that out as I was installing my EBC pads and Centric rotors today).

P.S. How do you like that brake setup? I just installed today and didn't drive much but the bite seems better already.
Ghetto Mr Bob---Thanks. The empty parking lot testing is coming soon. There is really no way to grease the Heim joints, except to slather them with grease. And, yes, quite different handling! I really like my Centric/EBC setup. Will be changing the brake fluid soon to Torque RT700. That may improve the braking further.

Thanks---Chris
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 08:00 AM
  #5  
renchjeep's Avatar
renchjeep
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From: Aguanga, CA
Originally Posted by Helix13mini
Some aftermarket drop links are made from very cheap heim joints which rattle from day one. There is no need for adjustable drop links unless you have a coil over (individually height-adjustable) suspension. With stock or simpe lowering springs, stick with the factory drop links.
Thanks, Helix. They are Alta links, and I did buy them used. Only really notice the rattle on dirt roads. If it starts to get really annoying, the stock ones will go back on.

Chris
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 08:29 AM
  #6  
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Slave to Felines
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From: Silly-con Valley
Originally Posted by renchjeep
I understand the bar settings, but what would adjusting the end links do for my handling?
My understanding is that they are primarily used to take out any pre-load on the sway bar. If, for instance, you had one link that was shorter than the other, when the car was sitting level the sway bar would still be twisting some. That's obviously not such a great thing, so you can change the length of one or both links to even them out.

In older cars especially, tolerances can add up to where things are uneven from left to right. Or old collision damage, or sometimes even just wear and tear, can cause that un-evenness. The adjustability can be very important at that point. I suspect that our cars are built more precisely than old 60s and 70s sporty cars, and so having the adjustment available is less important for us.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #7  
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renchjeep
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Originally Posted by Slave to Felines
My understanding is that they are primarily used to take out any pre-load on the sway bar. If, for instance, you had one link that was shorter than the other, when the car was sitting level the sway bar would still be twisting some. That's obviously not such a great thing, so you can change the length of one or both links to even them out.

In older cars especially, tolerances can add up to where things are uneven from left to right. Or old collision damage, or sometimes even just wear and tear, can cause that un-evenness. The adjustability can be very important at that point. I suspect that our cars are built more precisely than old 60s and 70s sporty cars, and so having the adjustment available is less important for us.
Gotcha. So if I was running a NASCAR oval, with only left turns, preloading would matter. Or if I had a twisted car, which I don't think is the case. Good info. I like NASCAR, but not ready to set up for all lefts just yet. Still more comfortable with lefty slides, coming from the Musclecar world, LOL. I have a lot to learn, like looking out the LEFT window in an oversteer situation! Old dog here, but I still learn well!
 
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:02 AM
  #8  
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PelicanParts.com
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From: Harbor City, CA
On the topic of suspension mods, when it comes time to bushing replacements be sure to check out the Powerflex bushings. It definitely improves handling and they are more cost-effective than OEM bushing replacements.
 
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