Hello, new here.
Just bought a used 2009 mini s. I have been going thru everything and doing some preventative maintenance on the engine. I bought a new timing chain kit and have been working on it. My problem seems to come when I try and lock the crank flywheel in place with the cam/ crank locking kit I bought. The small l shaped tool fits nicely in the lock hole, but does not lock the flywheel. I have turned it either direction slightly trying to locate the hole, without any luck. Could the previous owner replaced it with an aftermarket flywheel without a locking hole in it? Is this possible? If so, how do I time the crank to cams? I have the cams locked nicely with the kit, but I think I need a solution to time the crank. I also created a set of aluminum rods which show the position of the #1 +2 pistons. I 3D printed small yellow guides which allow the rods to travel up and down easily. I level them out, and still no locking hole.
See pic. Any help would be appreciated.

 

how do i post a pic?

 

https://gyazo.com/02d4abce468173968f1f248c0434faaa
Click on that ^ button when you reply

 

It's easy to get confused, there are I believe four holes in the flywheel and one if them is used for the flywheel locking tool, the hole that's out farther than the others. You'll know when you have the right hole because your tool will lock the crankshaft.

 

Just verify that you don't have it 180 off as the hole should be there. Then you install the cam blocks after locking the crank.

 

Ok, a brief update. I bought an endoscope and videoed the flywheel thru the locking hole. I recorded the flywheel thru an entire revolution and still no lock hole in the flywheel. Back to my original question. Obviously the clutch and probably the flywheel have been changed. Is it normal that an aftermarket flywheel would not have a locking hole? If so, how should I time the cams to the crankshaft? I have the tools to lock the cams in place. My problem is getting the crank perfectly timed to the cams. I have two aluminum rods I use in cylinders 1-2 to check for piston height. I used these, along with live video, to check for flywheel position. I understand that the crankshaft turns CLOCKWISE if I view it from the right side (passenger side). I understand that the crank position should be at 90 degrees BTDC. I have considered removing the transmission and then the flywheel. My thought was to align the crankshaft at 90 degrees BTDC, and a with a punch, mark this position on the flywheel. I can then drill a hole on this mark on my milling machine. This seems like a lot of work, but at least the hole will be there for the next time I need to change the timing chain. What do you all think? And yes, I have looked at the video of the flywheel several times- no locking hole. Thanks a lot.

 

How do I post a pic? Yes, I did click on the pic symbol. I even tried to insert a pic over and over. Maybe my settings are blocking me. thanks

 

Ok changed browsers and it works. I 3D printed these guides to hold the rods vertically and seat nicely in the spark plug holes in the head.

 

Not sure if this will help you out, but we do have a timing chain DIY here.

 

Yes, it's possible to have an aftermarket flywheel without the locking hole. My OS Giken, bought in 2011, doesn't have one. I bought it just before they realized it was needed. When I rebuilt my engine, I found a scrap flywheel from a Mini dealer, and used it to set timing.

Here's a pic of the flywheel's backside ---
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lywheel-scrap-
Note the four holes near the teeth. Three of these holes are for balancing and are probably randomly placed. The fourth one is a little closer to the center, and is the one needed to lock the crankshaft at 90 deg. It will always be at this location with respect to the flywheel mounting bolts and guide pin hole. Also, even with a video, this hole can be hard to find. You can see on the picture where my tool left scratch marks from me trying to find it. Let me suggest you use a probe much smaller than the locking hole --- like a nail. If the hole has dirt accumulated in it, the proper tool might not fit.

When measuring piston depth, you should measure all 4 to get the same measurement --- just to be on the safe side. Remember, the crank turns twice for every cam rev, so be sure to check for the cam lettering to ensure 90 deg and not 270.

 

You can time it without the locking pin. It's tricky as hell. Make sure you make alignment marks and a given cylinder is at a point of reference. I've don't it with no tools kit. But it's tricky and takes time.