Hey everyone.

Ok. Throwing a 002B64 suction tube code.
I see the VC was leaking so I changed it.
I get a slight engine stumble at idle even after
changing the VC.

The 002B64 code according to the Bentley
is a vacuum leak downstream of the intake (don't quote me on this but this code is in the back of the book)

Any experience with this code?
I'm really looking for good advice not just
shots in the dark.

HPFP replaced already and new plugs.
Don't know if carbon cleaning was done recently but I have read other threads with the same issue (stumble at idle) and they have done a ton and still have it.

Thanks.

 

ok I have been fighting this same issue for a long time now. the P2b64 code is a intake manifold leak error. after much research I have learned that this typically stems from a MAP sensor error, more along the lines of its dirty. I also have done the citroen recall with the pcv plugs that go on the passenger side of the valve cover and on the bottom of the intake manifold just for fyi's sake. Accompanying the idle issue and stumble I also get misfire codes : P2779 misfire cylinder 4 max P2781 misfire multiple cyl max P2A7D rear O2 min. these have all been at different times or together at random other times. I have changed plugs and coils and still have the idle issue. I am actually going to attempt to clean the MAP sensor(s) since there are 2 and I'll feed back the results.

A question for you, mine does a breaking up under heavy acceleration or passing maneuvers in 3rd and 4th, occasionally 5th. I sounds like a fuel break up issue or possibly a boost maintenance issue, are you experiencing this?

2010 JCW

 

Thanks for the reply. To answer your question - I have no performance issues under any type of acceleration.

I clear the engine codes and I can drive around for an hour or so under hard acceleration and finally the engine light will come back on but I never lose performance. My only real issue is a random stumble at idle. Drives great.

I certainly want to correct this issue so I am not driving around with the engine light on.

Maybe taking some sensor cleaner to the MAP sensor might help or
measuring the voltage at the sensor or bad connection??

 

So cleaned the MAP's and it definitely runs better but it is still doing the chugging at idle.

 

 

That picture is completely unreadable and very pixelated.

 

The pic is clear on a computer. Yeah I see it is blurry on my iphone.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...es-please.html

I was just trying to show you another post by Howie (link above) that
talks about how he had a bad VANOS solenoid and replacing fixed his issue.

 

dawgscj7,
Did you try cleaning or replacing the VANOS solenoid valve?
It appears this fixed the issue for another owner.

I see you have more codes than just the 2B64 but it may be worth a shot.

 

I had that problem too, then i replaced the MAF sensor and regap spark plugs and problem fixed, idle has been very good if not perfect.

 

What did you gap your plugs to and at what RPM does your MCS idle at?

Thanks.

 

Systemlord, as you know factory gap is 0.32 but i gap them close to 0.28.
RPM is 700 at idle.

 

I suspected that the stock gap was .032, but as for idling rpm I'm a little relieved that others are reporting the same thing. My engine has been getting better mpg at mid to low speeds since widening the plug gap and even pulls harder! When I had my plugs gapped at .028 it felt like I was using low octane gas, I only know this now after increasing the gap back to .032.

With the smaller gap (.028) on my stock MCS the spark was quick and short not burning all the fuel efficiently. I haven't been able to get a misfire at all recently, however if I turn on Sport Mode you better believe it, I'll start getting misfires immediately are moderate to heavy loads!

Brand new coils are in my very near future, maybe even IP Coils. Just wish I knew which coil is failing me now. My ECU is dumb stupid, I have never received any codes for anything including multiple misfiring that caused my crankshaft to lock up at 65 mph, scared the hell out of me! I thought my engine was toast!

A failing coil doesn't like hot weather, heat equals more resistance to a proper hot enough spark.

 

Have you tested the coil?

 

How do you test a coil?

 

Swap them of position to see if the fault follows them, at least move the one is giving you trouble.

 

Ok. Drove 800+ miles. Actually just got back from Mini on the Mack. Tried to set the record with 1451 MINIs - came up short with 1319.

Anyway, changed the VCG and this corrected 2 issues I was having. No more random idle stumble and 2B64 code is gone and never returned. Hit 120 mph - u know - just to make sure. Ha. All good.

 

I`m glad you solved the issue, just to be clear, what`s VCG stand for?

 

I don't ever get fault codes when I clearly should, I didn't even get a fault code 2 years ago when getting multiple misfires that gave me 100% power loss, crankshaft almost completely stopped at 65 mph. No codes, I don't believe I'll ever get a fault code period for anything that happens to my engine.

I was looking for a hands-on way for checking the coils, back in the 80's all you needed to do was measure the resistance of the coil, if the resistance measured below a certain value you got your answer. Now days you must rely on my stupid brain dead ECU that does everything but give codes!

 

Valve Cover Gasket

 

Slave, thanks.


System, i forgot all about your ECU being stupid. I really would like to know why your ECU does that, because mine does not do it.