I have 77k on my 07mcs now and in the last two weeks, I have gone back into limp mode. Ran my obd2 and got one code only, P2885 (besides my 02 sensor code via my decatted dp).

I replaced the maf sensor, nothing changed, my cam sensor is brand new too, as is the valve cover. Oil levels and condition are spot on. So, now I'm hearing a clacking noise, I'm assuming just the injectors, but my major issue is the car does NOT want to move under low speeds and the initial get-go.

Also, I'm putting out a darn good amount of smoke, especially going from 0-20. I'm assuming it can't be anything else but the turbo.. Everything on this car is practically new, problem is I'm still 4k upside down so calling it quits isn't exactly an option...so what are my options? If this is indeed the turbo that is.

 

anyone??

 

Next course of action is when the engine is cool, pull the inlet hose off the turbo and see if there is any play in the turbine shaft. It's entirely possible that the noise you're hearing is from the shaft having too much play and scrapping around the sides of the housing.

 

Okay I'll try to do that tonight after its really cool. Say there's no play, even though I'm sure there is, what other culprit could be at hand for the oil smoke? It's not from the motor that much is for sure and it is internal.

 

Could be a result of blow-by from a bad piston ring. But I'm not too knowledgeable about that.

 

Hmm. Well, the earliest Mini could schedule me for a diag was Tuesday at 3. Hopefully they'd be able to tell me exactly what's wrong. Cost isn't really the issue it's just the need to know of the issue. Damn obd lock.

 

When checking for turbo shaft play, look for oil in the air inlet. Turbo bearings gone bad will take out the oil seal, causing oil to get into the intake manifold. My pet peeve is an OCC with the rear hose blocked --- sure to cause oil burning thru the turbo seal.

 

Some design flaws in here that's for sure. Does every sign of what I've mentioned sound like I need a rebuilt turbo anyway? Just hoping it isn't anything else too.

Will the diag at Mini be able to tell me exactly what's up or only a generalization so they can try to ask me to repair this that and the other since I don't know what's wrong specifically? They know I work for another dealer so I'd imagine they wouldn't. The only thing that has me lost is the only code I have is the P2885 and that has no relation to the turbo at all from what I've looked up.

 

It's a boost control deviation error, it could have a lot to do with the turbo.

The MINI dealer may or may not be good at accurately determining the cause. A lot (not all) dealers are glorified part swappers.

 

Makes you wonder if it's even worth the 125$ to attempt finding out. Better suited to put that 125$ towards the rebuilt turbo from gpopshop? I mean I'm only 200 short as is from what I have saved up, that 125 would get me closer. I've got 77,2xx miles on this so I assumed the turbo was on its way out soon to begin with, I'm almost certain that's my issue..hopefully the only one.

 

Don't count on it being a bad turbo. "Clacking" noise could be lifters or the timing chain. With oil burning, seems more like a valve problem. A leak-down or compression test should give you a better idea of where to look.

You should check the turbo for shaft play and oil in the air inlet first --- something you can do before Tuesday's appt.

 

Not so. I have had the rear PCV hose blocked off with a BSH dual boost tap since my car was new, with no issues.

My car burns no oil between 5000 mile oil changes.

Dave

 

My buddy has both the compression and leak down tests at his shop, will those get me to my real issue, or just widdle out other possibilities?

Forgive me I've never done either of those I wouldn't really know what to look for.

 

OK, I'll back off on the word "sure". However, it definitely can be the cause, as others have also noticed it, and fixed the issue by removing this PCV hose plug. Thing to watch out for is positive crankcase pressure. This can cause turbo oil to not drain back into the crankcase, therefore seeking the path of least resistance --- thru the oil seal and into the air inlet chamber. Positive crankcase pressure can also be caused by other problems, like piston blow-by, shot valve stem seals, etc.

Dave, instead of wasting time criticizing me, how about offering the OP some constructive help.

Main thing is to ID the cause BEFORE replacing anything. These two tests will get you closer to where the problem is. Until you get it apart and ID something defective, it's a gamble that replacing things you think are bad, will fix it.

 

Alright I'll have to get these tests done asap then. Hopefully it gets me to the root of all this. All I have to go on right now is internal oil, that problem causing limp mode, the pcv is not the issue now for sure, and the very vauge 2885 code.

Past that, I have no idea. I'd imagine there can only be so many options. Looking at everything under the V/C it all looked perfectly fine. Would a carbon cleaning do me any good as well?

 

The air inlet chamber, if you're looking from the front of the car at the engine bay, that's the hose on the right side of the V/C that's held in by that little clip right?

 

Unfortunately with cars being as complicated as they are today its not an exact science.

If it does turn out to be the turbo (which it may or may not be) have you considered buying a low mileage used one. There is a JCW from a 2013 model with only ~20k miles in the marketplace, he's asking $600. This is a direct bolt on affair.

Have you by chance pulled out and inspected your diverter valve? Very simple to do and the diaphragms are know to fail.

 

That sounds like one of the PCV hoses. The air inlet I'm referring to is 2 - 2 1/2 " dia, connected directly to the turbo. Should be the one you remove to check shaft play.

 

Getting a barely used JCW for that price is an awesome alternative. & okay on the hose. I just have to find the time to get those tests done at our shop and take a look at it all. The smoke has me stressing me out beyond belief. Can't have the a/c on or its ten times worse. Had to happen in mid May in FL haha

 

P2885 means that the ECU isn't seeing the boost that it thinks it should be seeing. Check the cheaper stuff before blaming the turbocharger. Vacuum line to the turbocharger recirc valve could be leaking or split, the diaphragm in the recirc valve could be leaking, maybe the recirc valve spring is broken or there could be a leak in the intake piping downstream from the turbocharger, make sure all your hose clamps are tight on the air charge piping and hoses.

Dave

 

Sounds to me to be the Diverter Valve. Replace that piece and try it again. I am sure it will be coming apart in pieces when you remove it. I just had the same issue with my 07 with 65000 miles on it.


Erik

 

The diverter valve could cause all of this? I mean that'd be great if that's what it is that's for sure just didn't think that could cause all this smoke and limp mode deal.

 

The diverter valve dumps excess boost between shifts and if the DV is leaking (torn diaphragm commen issue) this could be why your not getting and boost. Don't start throwing parts at your Mini, it can get expensive quickly with nothing resolved. Find out what's causing your issue then replace faulty part.

 

I hesitated commenting on this before because I didn't want to steer you in a wrong direction as there are SO many possibilities when it comes to the P2885. But JMTurboCoopers has a decent collection of things they've found to be the cause and has helped me diagnose (and understand) a lot of the turbo system on our cars: http://www.jmturbocoopers.com/2885-B...DEVIATION.html



FWIW: I had something similar at about the same mileage. In my case the cause was a worn out bushing on the hinge in my wastegate, therefore it wasn't sealing fully and not letting the turbo spool up correctly. (diagnosed by some really great techs at my local MINI dealership who DID take the time to fully explain what was going on and what my options were). I've been there, Good luck! I really hope you get it solved quickly and in the best way!

 

I didn't know I could get an oil issue from the diverter valve.

So my steps taken in order should be taking that guy off and seeing if it's bad, then looking at the inlet hose to the turbo for oil, then if those come up okay running the compression test? I just need a full attack plan here to get to the bottom of this. I've heard of the wastegate issue as well.