I bought a 2010 MCS with 64k. My first Mini so I'm not very familiar with it. But I've noticed a noise in the engine bay when it's cold and I start to accelerate. The noise appears only when accelerating and rising RPMs, but only lasts for about 5-10 seconds from a cold start regardless of the ambient temperature. After I make it to the end of my block it'll go away. Sounds like a rattling noise. Like 2 pieces of aluminum chattering together. What's the deal??

 

Could be the timing chain. Known problem on the n14 engine (which I think you have). Might check to see if the dealer will cover it, certain years they did..

 

Let me guess, it's coming from the passenger side in the engine bay, right?

Yep sounds like the timing chain, got to replace the tensioner and guides. It's an $1800 - $2000 job, but dealer should cover it. If the dealer already perform the fix before you got the Mini you're on the hook for a replacement of all timing chain components. You should have known about this in doing a little research before buying. It is for this reason I purchased a 6-Year extended warranty, it only took a couple of months for my timing chain to rattle at cold start-up to fail, the guides were found in the oil pan. This what people do quite often, they buy the Mini new or used, see a serious problem, sell or trade-in the problem for someone else to deal with, you. R56 N14 equipped Mini's are a high risk (new or used) that you'll inherent someone else's money pit.

 

I didn't notice that sound when I bought it a couple months ago but may have just not known what to listen for.

So eventhough I didn't buy it from a Mini dealer, any Mini dealer may still cover the initial timing chain issue?

If the dealer doesn't cover it I'll find an Indy shop. I never mess around with dealerships.

 

Hi Cajun, I agree with the other posts. Since it goes away fast it's probably just the tensioner now but the more you drive it the more you stretch the chain. Check the oil level and make sure it's clean, the tensioner pumps up with oil to hold pressure on the chain. A spring holds pressure until the oil takes over, your spring is probably weak. Tensioner is a $70 part and Fairly easy to replace yourself or under $300 for a shop. Don't drive it till you get it fixed to save yourself a lot of money.

 

Talked to the dealer to see if they would cover the timing chain issue. No dice. They said there were no open recalls for this issue. An Indy shop said it would probably be around $1600.

Talked to Mini about buying an extended warranty to cover it but it would have to be initially inspected before writing an extended warranty and any issues found would need to be addressed before the warranty is issued. Those warranties are not cheap. Like $2200 for 1 year, up to $6000 for a 4 year.

I have 3 options:
1. Get the timing fixed by the Indy for $1600 then purchase a warranty from mini.
2. Just roll with the punches with out purchasing a warranty.
3. Let mini inspect it and hopefully they don't notice the timing issue and I purchase the warranty. (Maybe a little Lucas Oil additive would quiet the noise enough)

 

Have them measure the timing chain deflection, if it is greater than 68mm, the timing chain should be replaced, less than 68mm, then a longer timing chain tensioner can be installed.

Another thing that can make a rattling sound is the vacuum pump, it is on the opposite side of the engine from the timing chain. If the vacuum pump seizes, it can cause catastrophic damage to the engine.

 

Whoever you talked with you over the phone probably was inexperienced, first it's not a recall, it's a campaign. You must use the correct terms for these trained customer service reps. If you didn't give them your Vin number than they can't say no to you about paying for the timing chain cassette. Mini USA will cover the cost for your timing chain only if you give them the VIN number, this is the only way that they can whether or not they'll pay for it. Call them back with your VIN and then we'll see.

 

Since the noise goes away...means the chains good...change the tensioner and motor on.

 

Not necessarily, if the timing chain has stretched to or near its limits it's only a matter of time before the rattle begins again. I have seen this happen with many having the rattle return a year later, I replace my tensioner and 2 months later the rattle returned. The only way you'll know the timing chain is ok is only if you physically measure the slack of the chain, you can't assume since noise is gone chain is good. That's wishful thinking.

 

Hi systemlord, yes the change could be streched but you got to stop the bleeding. The tensioner, with the symptoms described has a weak spring which will destroy the engine if you keep driving it.Seventy dollars or even three hundred dollars is a cheap easy fix that buys you time and will work for another 60K if the chains not stretched and the short amount of time it sounds like the OP has driven it I bet he's Okay.

 

I wish the tensioner had a built-in one way valve so it wouldn't drain when car is shut off or because of a lack of oil pressure.

 

Oh they did ask and I gave them my VIN. They said the only campaignes for my car were the water pump and the turbo heat shield. I asked what they did for the turbo campaign but she didn't know. The reason I asked is because I noticed there was no heat shield. Looks like a part of it was cut off in fact.

Is there another source I can reference to make sure my car didn't have the timing chain campaign? This is Bullsquat

 

So how difficult is it to change the tensioner? Special tools? Time involved?

 

Just ordered a new tensioner from ECS. $26 vice $1600. Yeah, I'll give it a shot.

 

Did you get the tensioner that is the longer version for stretched chains? There's normal length and the longer version. This is why you should check the chain slack so you know where you're at as far as chain life, 68mm is the maximum amount of slack you can have before needing a new timing chain set. ECS Tuning sell the special measurement tool for checking chain slack.

 

82mm. Don't see any reason to measure if my only option is the longer 82mm. It obviously is rattling a bit and would only benefit from the longer version. That seems to be the issue with everyone else's and the resolution is to get the longer tensioner. 65K miles, I'm sure the chain has stretched a bit.