About a month ago I had new catless turbo back installed along with FMIC and swapped stock for JCW stage 2 intake. Have notice a little blue smoke coming from exhaust @ idle. Car seems to be running strong and I did pick up a CEL (P0420) soon after.
Took it to WMW and had Manic stage 2+ tune done. Car running real strong and the CEL went away for about 80 miles then returned. Way tells me he'd talk to Manic and get the issue resolved maybe at MOTD this weekend. I'm going up there this Saturday to and am planning on having Helix do the walnut blast. I bought this car about 5 months ago and am not sure if it's ever had a cleaning and want to make sure it's breathing freely.

This past Sunday I had the opportunity to get about 12 laps around Road Atlanta during a track touring session at the Walter Mitti event and the car ran fantastic. I enjoyed reeling in the Audi S4 and M3 in front of me coming through the esses. I let the pack spread way out in front of me on the back straight and ran wide open between the infield tunnel to turn 7 repeatedly...no problems!!!
Coming home I stopped at Walmart and left the car idling in the parking lot with the AC running and my kid and dog in the car. I'd had never left it idling for any prolonged time before. The car started smoking through the tail pipe real bad after a while...not sure how long but someone noticed it and told my daughter who cut the car off. When I started it smoke was coming through the vents inside for a few seconds. After I started back on the road everything seems back to normal...at least the way it was. I am using good bit of oil right now...maybe a half a quart every 200 miles.

Not sure what to look at first and trying not to panic. I don't notice any oil leaking and have had the oil feed and return lines replaced a couple of months ago. Non-Mini dealer who had it had the timing chain assembly replaced and the valve cover replaced (so they say). No noticeable leaks under the car.
Not sure what to look at first. I don't have a garage and very limited mechanic skills. Hoping it's just some sort of PCV issue and hoping to get it resolved at MOTD this weekend Should I change the PCV valve?

 

Well if they did replace the valve cover, then the PCV valve was already replaced as it is integrated with the valve cover. I'd get the walnut shell blast service done, and revisit to see if the concern persists.

 

Just thinking...Even if I have excessive carbon deposits on the backside of valves how could cause this problem?

 

Because the carbon deposits are a build up of many materials. Including oils and fuels. Basically when you sit at idle, there isn't enough vacuum to pull these gases correctly. This is worsened when you have a large amount of build up on the valves. Fresh material meets old and after a minute or two they start reacting with each other. During the combustion process it does not fully burn it off. That in turn travels down your exhaust and out the tail pipe.

Of course a build up on your intake valves is not the only reason for smoke at idle. I would say replace the valve cover too, but if you think its been done, thats $300+ wasted.

As I said, get your valves blasted and see how it goes. I did mine last year and the car changed. I was quicker, it seemed quieter, and my smoking stopped.

Until recently. Now my valve cover is leaking on all sides and starting in on my spark plugs now. Lame. I have the part on order, should be here Thursday.

Good Luck at the Dragon!

 

Thanks Grizld. Sounds like sound advice. If that don't fix it I'm sure someone's will be there to help me figure this out

 

Do you have the rear PCV delete done? I had this done to my car and all was fine until I installed a catless down pipe. I reinlisted the PCV system accept with a dual catch tank (one for each tube) and the smoke was gone. My car needed a vacuum on the crankcase at idle to be happy.

 

Being mine is catless already maybe I should introduce a catch can. I imagine mine is suffering from lost vacuum since this is happening @ idle. I'll see what's happening after the walnut blast I suppose. Which dual catch did you go with?

 

I started a thread when I had similar issues. Here is the link.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/231371-pcv-delete-possible-isues-resulting.html#post3538128

It is titled if the link doesn't work. (PCV Delete. Possible issues resulting).
Check it out it explained what problem I had and how I resolved it and has a link to the exact catch can I used.

 

Thanks elsinorej for your help and yes I've skimmed over that thread a few times now. Unfortunately, I can't tell what's what with this PCV system I have. For all I know someone possibly did a PCV delete and I can't tell. I checked the bolts holding down the valve cover and did find one that I tightened about 1.5 turns.

Here are a couple of pics if anyone can make sense of what I'm looking at. Yep, I've got some oil vapor escaping from somewhere...
And what's with those 2 little brass fittings that look like they should have something connected to them?

 

Your PCV system seems to be in stock config. I would verify that the pipe coming from the passenger side is not blocked and is correctly connected at the intake manifold. The tube crosses the intake over to the drivers side and connects under the intake and it is very hard to see once accessed. If I remember I used a mirror and light to inspect mine. If all else is correct you may have a problem with one of your PCV valves in the valve cover. Both should allow flow out but not in, meaning they are simply large check valves. Hopefully you can check this stuff out at the time of the walnut blast.

 

I forgot to mention that if the valve cover is leaking excessively as you stated (as long as the seal is in good condition) it may indicate abnormally high crank case pressure.

 

I'm scared to ask....What could be causing abnormally high crankcase pressure?

 

Well from where I'm sitting now who knows, but probably a PCV problem. Keep in mind that I could be way off on my guesses which that's all they are at this point. Don't let me scare you too much. I do however have a lot of personal experience with various engines to pull from. Pick up a Bentley service manual if you get a chance, I have used mine many times. They have some pretty good explanations of how various systems including the PCV function allong with how to diag and repair them.

 

Walnut blast done (they were nasty), runs way better but still smoking up a storm at idle Maybe it's burning all the time but I just don't see it unless I'm at idle.

Maybe it's piston rings? Turbo? I'm hating this car right now

 

There's two other ways oil can enter the combustion process, through the piston rings and valve seals. I believe it to be the latter. A compression test is in order. If your compression is good than that leaves the valve seals.

 

Isn't the turbo a possibility too? I'm reading a leak-down is needed to test the piston rings.

Wish I had this done before buying this money pit...

Oh yea...my tension wheel is making noise too Does a new engine come with one???

To top that off...Way removed my P0420 CEL and loaded B map for my Manic Stage 2+ and before I get home the CEL is back. Not surprised he informed me that he'd be unpacking Monday and wouldn't be available till Tuesday to take calls...

 

Pretty much the same setup here. I always have CEL for P0420. I have the BMS Can Tool that clears the CEL after a few minutes of driving. Apparently you can get this permanently cleared within the tune, I haven't tried. I don't really care, I know I don't have a cat so it doesn't matter if that code is stored.

 

I was told and expected the CEL would be gone with the tune.... I'm sure Way will get it handled. I'm just not happy about going back for a 3rd time.

 

I don't understand, "tension wheel"...? Start with the leak-down test before concerning yourself with the turbo, there's much more involved removing the turbo than having a leak-down test. Start with the easy first and work your way from there.

 

The water pump friction wheel is the proper term I suppose.

 

I'm just noticing that I said a "little", blue smoke @ idle. It smoke pretty excessively at idle after it reaches operating temperature. In traffic or the drive thru it's ridiculous actually.

Could it be the turbo? Being catless should't I hear the turbo spooling? I have never heard it and was surprised after changing the exhaust system. It really seems slow to me considering the mods and Manic stage 2+ tune.

Could the turbo be shot?

I'm kind of bummed out that my mechanic is going out of town Wednesday and I don't think he'll have time to diagnose.

Never thought I wish the turbo was blown but at this point I think it's the best case scenario

 

We have been over this already, get a leak-down test first, it's to early in the game to start guessing. First thing get a leak-down test to start and go from there. I suspect the valve seals are letting oil through, this is why you need to start with getting a leak-down test. We can sit hear all week guessing at what it might be and be no closer to actually solving your problem.

 

I have the same issue. I took my car into a Mini independent mechanic after I threw a bunch or parts (valve cover, turbo, oil lines, catless DP) and time without making a difference.

He didn't do the leakdown because it ran so strong that it would have been a waste of money. He said it was either the oil control rings, or the valve guides/seals. He gave me a quote to pull the head and do a head job, but said he would not guarantee it would fix it. At this point, I'm driving it till it blows. I changed to thicker oil and try to keep the temp down by keeping the AC on full blast. For some reason, keeping the AC on full blast keeps it at 175 - 180.

 

You don't have to pull the head to change or replace the valve seals. He should at least perform a compression test because once the head is off that option is long gone. Pretty lazy to pass on a compression test which would only take about 15 minutes.

 

I did a compression test. He said the numbers were good. When I called to make the appointment, the service writer said they would do a leakdown as part of the troubleshooting.

He said it might be the valve guides due to the carbon buildup (which I had already cleaned off). Do you have to remove the head for the Valve guide replacement?