Bam looking to put a new shift **** on my r56 Cooper s. How do I take off the stock ****?

 

just pull it up.

 

Do you have to remove the gator?

 

... and watch your face and sunroof/headliner. They're known to break free quickly and the results can be bad

I don't remember if I separated the gator at the shift **** before, or if I had to unsnap the trim ring at the bottom, then separate after everything was off.

 

Nope, just pull. But HEED the warning above. Be careful when you pull. There has been bodily harm, broken sunroofs and the like.

 

Maybe I should open my sun roof

 

Don't forget keep your face, and other sensitive body parts out of the way

If you wiggle/twist the shift **** while using increasing force, you should be able to feel it start to release, then you can start backing off and it should come off without any drama. Brute force is definitely not recommended.

 

Yea, pull up, if you have a sunroof , open it so you don't pull up and hit it. Two hands will be needed.

Also watch you face, so you dont punch yourself.

 

I have a John Cooper Works **** from my 2004 MCS that was just totaled, will that **** fit on a 2012 R56 S? Or is it a completely different fitment?

Thanks

 

Won't fit. Different setup from R53 to R56.

 

You could also knock yourself out, you need to sit directly between the seats. I'd rather knock myself out than hurt my Mini.

 

And pull really hard. It will pop right off.

Don't twist; you don't want to break the alignment key. Just straight up.

 

FWIW, on my '11 MCS you also have to remove the trim ring holding the boot as it pulls both when you remove the ****. Didn't see it mentioned here until I did some searching and the guy in the video above doesn't mention it.

 

I just replaced my stock 2012 shift boot and shift ****. I'll list a couple of tips.

1) I used a very slim nylon trim lever to slip own inside the silver trim ring that holds the bottom of the leather boot onto the surrounding console. There are clips that secure the ring into the console. I was very slow and methodical and the ring worked out well.

2) Once the bottom of the shift boot was released from the console, I positioned my self over the gear shift **** and pulled straight up and the **** came loose with the shift boot.

3) Once the shift **** and boot were released I worked at removing the shift ****. The shift boot is held in place by two interlocking plastic rings at the base and one black plastic ring at the top of the shift boot. The top ring is secured to the inside lining of the shift boot. The gear shift **** slips down into the shift boot and top ring and is held in place by four beveled prongs on the gear shift ****. Using a flat screw driver covered with electric tape I worked on levering the gear shift **** tabs, working slowly until they were able to free away from the shift boot and plastic ring. The shift **** eventually slid off.

4) I slipped the new JCW gear shift **** into the top of the shift boot and plastic trim ring. I then slid the assembled shift boot and **** over the gear stick. I firmly pushed the **** down onto the gear stick. Once the **** was secured I slowly and gently pressed the bottom shift boot trim ring back into the console.

 

Great info and comments!

I'm searching for the black shift **** with red line/numbers (OEM is with white line/numbers)

 

That's the JCW shift **** ( regular one ): Its has the Red double H pattern.

JCW Gear Shift **** 6 Speed - Leather / Red / Chrome Part # 25117607582

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/25117607582/

Or you could change it up with the JCW GP 2 Shift ****. Same adapter and fit. First un-clip the boot / base ring ( see pics ). Use a plastic card and work it around till it pops out , then grab the **** with both hand , (watch the glass sunroof if you have it) ; Don't pull towards your face. Then pull up , it will be on there tight.

Repeat and reverse for install.


JCW GP 2 Shift **** W/ Boot - Black / Red Part # 25117638583


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/25117638583/ES2607800/





Thanks

 

Thank you for the info and the link!

 

Welcome.

 

I have an used JCW shift **** (regular one, black base with red letters) in my hands!
It is OK, as new, with the white tab OK and the two black rings on it OK.



When trying to remove the OEM shift **** ... it was very very very very very easy. No brutal force. No force! Easier than changing the antenna!
May be that it was not never fully pressed. Maybe luck? Yes, may be.

Now, I have the OEM shift **** supported only by the black leather:

What is the correct way to remove the OEM shift **** from this point to install the new one without cutting the leather?
I could read something related to separate the two black rings and then separate the lower ring from the white tabs ...

 

The white tabs (should be 4 of them) need to be pressed inward to slip the old **** out from the boot. The new **** should go in the same way and is much easier to get in than it is to get the old one out.

I'm not sure how you're looking at the boot/**** but it's easiest to do when it is inside out (that's where you'll see those 4 white tabs.

Hope that helps.

 

The shift boot has two rings on its bottom that clip together and into the console. Be careful on removing this as it is easy to break the clips. Once the shift boot is removed you can gain access to the how the shift **** plugs into the plastic ring at the top of the shift boot. Once it is removed you will see how it is joined.

I gently used a thin screwdriver from underneath to gently pry the OEM shift **** loose from the ring it connects into. My OEM also looked like it had a small bit of adhesive that once broke free the **** was able to slip up and out of the shift boot/underneath trim ring at the top.

Hope that helps too.

 

+1 on install of the clips.

Here is the boot.:

http://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_Cooper_S_Coupe_Clubman_Convertible_Roadster_J CW_R55_Through_R59_GP2_Shift_Knob_2007_2008_2009_2 010_2011_2012_2013_2014/





Now you can see those taps on the bottom.

 

Ghetto Mr Bob

Thank you for your comment and yes, there is 4 white tabs.

Since I have the 2 black rings on the "new" shift ****, I'm trying to separate the lower black ring from the 4 white tab. It is not easy, it seems the tabs are very very very strong (not flexible)
I don't want to break the lower ring nor any of the withe tabs!
It seems to do it, I will need brute force in this case.

For OEM shift **** I believe is the same way that separating the lower black ring on the "new" shift **** BUT the task should be done under the leather.
It seems the problem is the non flexible white tabs.

 

fastzombie

Thank your for you clear explanation!
My situation is exactly as you are saying. The shift **** is out, and now just "attached" to the leather. It was not necessary to remove the gear shift base.

BUT, I'm playing with the "new" shift **** (the lower ring) in my hands and I can't remove the lower black ring from the white tabs. It seems the white tabs were done in very very strong plastic and it is not possible press the tabs (is like trying to press a metalic stuff).

I think I need to remove the lower black ring on the "new" shift **** and then, insert the white tabs in the old lower black ring and then put the shift **** on it original position (by pressing it hardly).

My main fear: to break the lower black ring and/or one white tab (or all the white tabs!). I could break both things in both cases (OEM and "new" shift **** black rings and white tabs).

 

Thank you for your help (as always!) and picture.
It will be helpful for the war against the OEM shift **** !!!