I installed an aftermarket backup camera in my 2009 Mini. It works great for about ten seconds then turns off.
The camera is wired to the backup light circuit. The display is wired to an ignition source. I also tried the display to a separate power supply. Same outcome.
My guess is that something happens to the backup voltage after about ten seconds. Does anyone know what could be going on? The camera and display work perfect on the bench.

 

Do you have Bluetooth?

 

Yes, I do have Bluetooth.

I just measured the reverse power circuit using an oscilloscope. The voltage goes to a constant 12 volts when the vehicle is shifted into reverse. After 10 seconds the voltage alternates between 12 volts and ground. It stays at 12 volts for about 12 milliseconds and then goes to 0 volts for 5 milliseconds and then repeats.
My guess is that this extends the bulb life.

 

I've heard that BT interferes with the wireless cameras.. But I guess you've found the issue with the OSCope... Isn't anything easy anymore?! Lol..

 

I actually decided against the wireless camera due to the size of the mini. I will design up a small rectifier circuit in the morning and see how that works.

 

Here is my solution.
I installed a small 2 amp diode in series to a 200 microfarad capacitor shunted with 2000 ohms. This reduced the chopped waveform to a high degree. There is a bit of flicker but very tolerable. I mounted the 4.3 inch LCD in the little cubby below the AC controls. What a difference being able to see behind the mini convertible.

 

Are you using LEDs for the reverse lights??

The voltage you are speaking of, sounds like a bulb check.

 

They are the standard filament type bulbs. My guess was the chopped voltage waveform was to extend the life of the bulbs using an AC voltage but it may also be linked to determining if the bulb is operational. In any case, my rectifier circuit is working great. I would like to find a better place for the display.

 

Was the reverse camera in the circuit when you scoped the voltage??

 

No. I just connected the scope probe to the lamp.

 

I saw another forum where the described the cameras in a Mini. The rear camera turns on with the power of the backup lights and shuts off when you move out of reverse. The forward camera input turn on for 10 seconds only, then the system moves back into Nav. Are you in the correct input?

 

I do not have a front camera input. I installed an aftermarket backup camera. It actually is working out fantastic for us. I put the LCD just in front of the gear shifter lever.

 

Since you have already wired in one diode, you can wire another into a separate unswitched hot 12v - operated by a switch under the dash - connected to the reverse cam, which will allow you to additionally activate the camera at will (vs. only when in reverse). The diode prevents backflow of current to the unswitched 12v when the cam is normally activated by the reverse light. I did this in a Z4 Roadster and used it quite often, especially with the very poor rear visibility in that car. Flip a switch, see what's back there, switch it off.

Consider adapting the mount used for the MINI Garmin accessory (official name MINI PORTABLE NAVIGATION XL SYSTEM)?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-opinions.html
If interested, Google these part numbers for a start:
Bracket 65902348476
Installation Kit 65902351407
MINI Portable Navigation XL 65902348018

 

That is a good idea. The visability is really limited. I will add it. My convertible already has a guage mounted on the left. It is the happy guage, as I refer to it. It measures top down time. Maybe I could go to the right.

 

The OPENOMETER?

Because the steering wheel significantly obstructs the view of the optional Garmin XL in any position EXCEPT top dead center, going to the right is not really a viable option for any display that you actually want to . . . umm . . . see.

This Garmin mount has various detents (holes drilled in the pivoting frame) and stops at various positions by means of a small ball bearing that engages those detents and stays put via friction.

Mine would not go past about 10 o'clock - essentially worthless - so I removed it for a quick 'look see' - as I am wont to do.

Sure enough, full pivot movement to the top had been purposely defeated by means of rivets put into the relevant detents - I'm guessing as a post-design modification at the advice of counsel for liability concerns. So I ground out the rivets, drilled a few more strategically placed detent holes in the frame, and can now swing the Nav all the way up when I need it, but keep it down at 9 o'clock and out of the way when I don't.

 

The openmeter is a guage that goes up to 6 hours. It has some segment lights that indicate hours and a needle pointer that shows zero to one hour. A bit foolish but it does make me feel good when I see that I have been driving around for many hours with the top down. This all requires a lot of SPF 50, but in south Florida that is SOP.

 

Not as good as your dermatologist