Just bought a used MCS, 2009. Had about 3 weeks now. I was surprised the first time I test drove that the clutch pedal disengages so high in the pedal travel...got used to it and it does have about .5-.75 of an inch of freeplay. So I'll assume the clutch is still good. I've recently notice that when I accelerate hard while going on a substantial uphill grade in 3rd and even 4th gear as the turbo kicks into full boost (around 5,000+ rpm), I believe the clutch is slipping (a little) as the rpm increasing but the car is no longer accelerating

The car has 108,000 miles on it and I think the clutch still has some miles left on it, as it's fine the rest of the time. But wondering what can be causing this.

Love the car but a little nervous about all the issues I read about here.

A pic with my new Rota RBs (hyper black):

 

Sounds like a dead clutch to me. I hope your piggy bank has lots of pennies in it; you'll need them. I think the going rate for a clutch job starts at about $1200 and goes up (possibly WAY up) from there. More from the dealer, of course. And more if you need a flywheel.

Speaking of flywheels, when the clutch slips you are heating the flywheel up significantly. Doing too much of that will damage it, if it hasn't already been damaged. And it's a fairly expensive part, so you should avoid that slip if you can.

 

Sounds exactly like mine. I went from it driving as you describe to completely undriveable and unable to engage gears in about 1,000 miles. I was surprised how quickly it went. I drove extra carefully.

I replaced mine myself and did not require flywheel replacement.

 

Thanks STF for the advise about the flywheel. My mechanic is busy and says 2 weeks before he can get to it. I'll baby it till I can get in there.

 

That's encouraging and I'll hope the flywheel is OK. Thanks!

 

It would be nice to save the flywheel, but most of the expense (or effort if you DIY) is in the labor. I would replace it just to be safe.

 

I had thrown a code and after having my mechanic look at it looks like I have a HP fuel pump that's needs replacing. He said that it is possible (not probable) that it's causing the symptom. Should be covered under the extended warranty issued for this fuel pump...calling the dealer this morning to make sure.

 

Dealer took care of the HPFP. They also noted needing oil filter base gasket. Oil feeder line leaking and clutch is about to go...

Thankfully I met Paul A., at the dealership in Atlanta...a long time Mini enthusiast. He's steered me in right direction to get the work done. It goes in the shop tomorrow...

I feel like it's a little to soon to go through this initiation of owning an MCS but hopefully I'll be ripping through the N GA mountains this weekend and no problems for a while.

 

Recommend a shop flush the clutch/brake fluid for you, can make a world of difference instantly in the clutch pedal travel distance....

 

The clutch job will probably run you around $2,500 as that is about what we charge customers between parts, labor, and shop supplies. I would highly recommend replacing the stock DMF, not only can you not resurface a DMF, but they almost always have excessive rotational play as well as horizontal play. I've seen the damage a DMF causes when they let go, and it's not cheap.

The oil filter housing seal as well as the turbo oil feed line are extremely notorious for leaking on these cars. We sell a kit that includes everything you or the installer will need to fix it right: DT TOL Super Kit

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

That's about what mine cost including the DMF. My DMF was full of hairline cracks (heat damage). The pleasures of buying a used car.

BTW, my clutch wasn't slipping. It would chirp when I got on it. It had worn down so much that a rivet was hitting the flywheel under load. Nice.

 

Mechanic said the DMF was shot...
$2100 repair including new oil filter mounting gaskets and oil lines to and from the turbo. Stock clutch. Drives fantastic and to celebrate I got some new wheels/tires and an alignment. 17" BBS RGR and Pilot A/S 3 Next up is a RSB.