Ok so I know I will get a lot of people telling me search for it..... and I did a little just not sure how to word it. But I was reading and I saw someone say you can adjust the waste gate on a 2007 mini and I was wondering if there is a do it yourself thread on this??? I'm looking for easy little things I can do to my mini that doesn't require spending hundreds of dollars..


Thanks for any help!

 

You have been misinformed, never heard of this before, the waist gate is vacuum operated. If raising boost was that easy everyone would be doing it and your search would yield many results. These 2nd gen Mini's are finicky and very sensitive when you start messing around with them.

 

The waste gate is actually electronically controlled. So yes, with a tune, it is adjustable to make more boost. If you were to replace it with a mechanical one, you would be able to adjust it to hold more boost than the stock tune and waste gate. I'm just not sure if it would throw a check engine light or not without a tune, which would nullify any gains over just a tune with the stock waste gate? The issue with a tune is that it can be quite pricey.

I know this is not really an answer to your question but if you want to make more power, try a few basic bolt on mods that are quite easy to install and will be less restrictive to airflow entering the engine. There is the hot side boost tube that can be replaced with a freer flowing one. You can add a less restrictive air filter or intake setup if you want to make more power above 5500 RPM. But with the intake just make sure you do your research to make sure it will not crack the turbo inlet pipe, as that was an issue with the 2007 - 2010 N14 models unless you have a JCW with the hard inlet pipe.

 

I gotta agree with SystemLord and NathanMcKee, you really don't want to play with the wastegate.

However, the vacuum diaphragm has a threaded rod connecting to the wastegate "lever arm", which is probably the adjustment you're asking about. It's located under the turbo and extremely difficult to access without removing a lot of "stuff". Definitely not an "easy little thing"! Even if you decide to try adjusting it, I can't help with how many turns, or which direction. It would be trial and error, which could be costly if overdone.

My turbo is currently on my workbench, with the diaphragm not attached. I could take a couple pics if anyone is really interested in attempting this.

Edit: Since the wastegate is vacuum operated, and the vacuum is either applied or not applied, this adjustment is probably to ensure the wastegate is closed properly. When the vacuum is applied, it's controlled by the ECU - as stated by Nathan. In another thread, I mentioned adjusting my wastegate, but I'm NOT using an OEM turbo, and it was done before installation, on my workbench. My Garrett wastegate is controlled by boost pressure. Maybe that was the thread you saw?

 

I am installing a KO4 from JMTurbocoopers. When separating the cartridge the fixed position of the lock screws on the wastegate rod came loose. I had them taped in position. Can you describe with a short tome how to adjust the rod to a good starting position? I know the movement is only about 1/8" on the rod but does it need a little pre-loading?
Thanks for your response. DR

 

This is one I'm really reluctant to answer. Mainly because i have no expertise on what parameters are used for the original setup. I strongly recommend you contact JMTurbocoopers and explain your problem. It's probably really simple, but I don't want the responsibility of possibly misguiding you. Yes, mine is on my workbench, and the diaphragm has been removed. Locktite has been added to minimize lock-screw movement but there has still been some movement from OEM settings. I didn't check for pre-loading before disassembly. So, putting it back together and measuring things will not be accurate. I'll probably never use this turbo again, except for a core / exchange.

That said, here's some guidance --- I'd suggest getting an inexpensive vacuum hand pump to exercise the diaphragm, then adjust to ensure the wastegate opens when vacuumed, and closes completely with no vacuum. My OEM vacuum source is between 20 - 24 in hg at idle, and probably doesn't change much with RPM's, but thats what is piped to the diaphragm, when activated. Completely disabled for my Garrett --- no codes either.

Again, get some help from JMTurbocoopers!

 

Hey thanks for the response. Of course I will ask him on Monday. There has to be a start point and I know the waste gate lever only needs to travel a short distance to do its job.
Best,
DR

 

Wait a minute the ECU controls the diverter valve open or closed and then there's the vacuum operated waste gate so how does the ECU control things based on vacuum? There's no electrical connector to control the waste gate and the diverter valve is eithr open or closed. When I told my brother that I could get a tune for my MCS and increase boost he said no way, the turbo is mechanical and is controlled by the exhaust gasses.

 

The wastegate is vacuum operated and gets its source from the mechanical pump on the drivers side end of the valve cover. The ecu can adjust this vac level to pull against a spring and open/close a valve in the turbo hot side housing that will adjust the amount of exhaust that acts on your turbo and the amount that bypasses it. This is how your boost is controlled. On most cars, a positive pressure is applied to this diaphragm to actuate it and thus you can use a mechanical boost controller to adjust it. Ours is different in that it uses vac. Different source, same idea but that is the reason we cannot use most traditional boost controllers. When you get a tune, you adjust the vac applied to the wastegate spring as well as several other factors.

The diverter valve is a separate system with a separate purpose.

Sent from my Nexus using NAMotoring

 

A little more clarification, if I may --- take a look at RealOEM under "Engine - Vacuum Control - Engine Turbo Charger" --- item #2 is a "Pressure Controller". This is what the ECU turns on and off to route vacuum to the waste gate diaphragm. My AccessPort can monitor, via the OBD connector, a feature called "WGDC (%)" or Waste Gate Duty Cycle measured in per cent. Duty cycle refers to an On - Off sequence, not a variable value. Our vacuum pump is a constant, and the vacuum tank (item #1) pretty much stabilizes any variation. The net effect is similar to what nine5raptor refers to --- rapid switching, simulating a variable value. Other turbos (such as my Garrett) using positive pressure for waste gate actuation use actual boost pressure, often through a boost controller, as nine5raptor describes.

I doubt if this helps danraabe with his adjustment problem, but a little better understanding of our R56 goes a long way.

 

Thanks for the clarification OldBrokenWind. You have taken your mini beyond where most of us will ever think of and your experiences are appreciated.

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Very interesting, at least now I know. I won the $100 bet, my brother is old school. Beers on me I mean my brother.

 

Standard wastegate travel on the factory KO3 is approx .5" from fully open to fully closed. If setting up a KO4 from JM start with .4" to .35" of travel and you should be set. Each full turn on actuator nut moves it 1mm.

 

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