R56 How keep to Mini temperarure low.
How keep to Mini temperarure low.
Is there any way to keep the temperature low?
My is R56 N18 engine. I understand there is no way to upgrade the thermostat to a lower temp. Is there any other solutions?
Thank you
My is R56 N18 engine. I understand there is no way to upgrade the thermostat to a lower temp. Is there any other solutions?
Thank you
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My water temp average is 105-110 degree, engine & ATF oil is about 210-220 all this reading get from my scangauge. Is there any mod or solution to lower the temp?
I have been thinking the same thing, I think the cars would be happier about 100c, there should be a way to get a Tuner file that changes the PID for the ECU I will ask Stelois of E-TUners he knows our cars. My temps are usually about 105 until sporty-mode where it goes down to 98c have you checked for any deposits in your antifreeze. Also the reason that the engines run like this is for better efficiency with the direct injection the fuel charge actually has some cooling effect so its a bit different, and I think in mixed mode were you see about 40 mpg cruising on the highway it may be necessary. Have you ever over heated.
I have been thinking the same thing, I think the cars would be happier about 100c, there should be a way to get a Tuner file that changes the PID for the ECU I will ask Stelois of E-TUners he knows our cars. My temps are usually about 105 until sporty-mode where it goes down to 98c have you checked for any deposits in your antifreeze. Also the reason that the engines run like this is for better efficiency with the direct injection the fuel charge actually has some cooling effect so its a bit different, and I think in mixed mode were you see about 40 mpg cruising on the highway it may be necessary. Have you ever over heated.
What year is your N18? The 2013 N18 cars in sport mode run 175F. Other years turning on MAX A/C will do the same. Also IIRC, the Manic tune can do something similar (not attached to sport mode but always at 175F-180F).
A couple of thoughts.
Without electronic manipulation you will always see the temps your running as that's where it's set to keep the car at. What you can do is change how long it stays at that temp and how long it takes to get to that temp.
You said your in tropical country. Hence no need for a full 50/50 antifreeze - water mixture. You may want to flush the coolant and do a 10/90 or 20/80 coolant to water mix. Water is a better cooling liquid but you need some antifreeze to help with lubrication and corrosion.
You can also add WATER WETTER from redline. The misnomer about this product is it reduces water temp. It doesn't. But what it does do is help transfer the heat of the engine to the cooling system and keep the engine at a lower temp longer and more evenly through the engine and cooling system. It allows the radiator to do its job more efficiently.
The other theory is that if you keep under hood temps lower your cooling system will deal with less ambient heat soak issues. The GP2 under belly splash pan has been proven to reduce under hood temps and engine temps by better controlling the air thru the inter cooler / radiator and engine compartment.
Like i said it's not the static temp that you read at your gauge but more importantly how long it stays at that temp and how well your cooling SYSTEM is doing. And I caps system for a reason cooling an engine has to do with not only coolant and a thermostat but with air flow, materials , and other things together.
Hope that helps.
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Without electronic manipulation you will always see the temps your running as that's where it's set to keep the car at. What you can do is change how long it stays at that temp and how long it takes to get to that temp.
You said your in tropical country. Hence no need for a full 50/50 antifreeze - water mixture. You may want to flush the coolant and do a 10/90 or 20/80 coolant to water mix. Water is a better cooling liquid but you need some antifreeze to help with lubrication and corrosion.
You can also add WATER WETTER from redline. The misnomer about this product is it reduces water temp. It doesn't. But what it does do is help transfer the heat of the engine to the cooling system and keep the engine at a lower temp longer and more evenly through the engine and cooling system. It allows the radiator to do its job more efficiently.
The other theory is that if you keep under hood temps lower your cooling system will deal with less ambient heat soak issues. The GP2 under belly splash pan has been proven to reduce under hood temps and engine temps by better controlling the air thru the inter cooler / radiator and engine compartment.
Like i said it's not the static temp that you read at your gauge but more importantly how long it stays at that temp and how well your cooling SYSTEM is doing. And I caps system for a reason cooling an engine has to do with not only coolant and a thermostat but with air flow, materials , and other things together.
Hope that helps.
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My is end 2010 N18.
A couple of thoughts. Without electronic manipulation you will always see the temps your running as that's where it's set to keep the car at. What you can do is change how long it stays at that temp and how long it takes to get to that temp. You said your in tropical country. Hence no need for a full 50/50 antifreeze - water mixture. You may want to flush the coolant and do a 10/90 or 20/80 coolant to water mix. Water is a better cooling liquid but you need some antifreeze to help with lubrication and corrosion. You can also add WATER WETTER from redline. The misnomer about this product is it reduces water temp. It doesn't. But what it does do is help transfer the heat of the engine to the cooling system and keep the engine at a lower temp longer and more evenly through the engine and cooling system. It allows the radiator to do its job more efficiently. The other theory is that if you keep under hood temps lower your cooling system will deal with less ambient heat soak issues. The GP2 under belly splash pan has been proven to reduce under hood temps and engine temps by better controlling the air thru the inter cooler / radiator and engine compartment. Like i said it's not the static temp that you read at your gauge but more importantly how long it stays at that temp and how well your cooling SYSTEM is doing. And I caps system for a reason cooling an engine has to do with not only coolant and a thermostat but with air flow, materials , and other things together. Hope that helps. Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
Thank you for sharing your information.
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Eh no it isn't...2010's still have the n14.
You are looking for an answer to irrelevant question.
There is no need to lower the temp. It's just where the engineers, (that probably have a much better education in internal combustion engine emissions and efficiencies, than you do), designed it to be.
You are looking for an answer to irrelevant question.
There is no need to lower the temp. It's just where the engineers, (that probably have a much better education in internal combustion engine emissions and efficiencies, than you do), designed it to be.
Eh no it isn't...2010's still have the n14. You are looking for an answer to irrelevant question. There is no need to lower the temp. It's just where the engineers, (that probably have a much better education in internal combustion engine emissions and efficiencies, than you do), designed it to be.
Also, don't always trust engineers, they don't always know best. There are a few examples of "what were you thinking" on the N14/N18 engines.
Engineers do know best, but they are usually over ruled by pesky accountants... Unless you work at Bugatti...
If the engine is working as it should, there really is no benefit to running cooler.
If the engine is working as it should, there really is no benefit to running cooler.
110c sounds just a bit high if you are at that temp a lot run through the standard cooling system checks. Engineers have to make choices based on many factors that are not strictly engineering also designs get changed sometimes against the original intentions it is direct injection so read up on it a bit and then if you want to make a change give it a try. I have seen a few of these heads now and they do get a bit more warpage than I would like to see, a lower temp may help prevent that among other things. Rule of thumb for race engines can be 210f so that might be a lower end temp to work towards.
But in 2013 they added the cooler running feature in sport mode so there has to be some benefit.
Running hotter may/should have efficiency benefits the rule I learned is you were not making hp until 210f but heat can cause more mechanical stress and so you have to weigh the pros and cons. Plus all engines are a bit different and direct injection is its own thing with three air fuel modes super lean, mixed, and regular . I think a good thing to keep in mind is that you want to manage heat and understand where it is coming from and where it is going. It would be nice to get to talk to the original designers to see what they were trying to do. Does any one know who they were?
That's the temperature they're designed to run at. Why do you think its a problem?
All R56 engines will run cooler if you put them under load. So the answer to your question is to flog the hell out of the engine, it'll cool down to about 80°C. The earlier versions would then immediately warm back up once the load was removed. The later versions would take about 10min for the temperature to get back up if in sport mode.
The thermostat is a two stage thermostat controlled electronically I think. I've sometimes wondered about shorting it out so its always in low temp mode, but that's to make more power, not to run cooler.
All R56 engines will run cooler if you put them under load. So the answer to your question is to flog the hell out of the engine, it'll cool down to about 80°C. The earlier versions would then immediately warm back up once the load was removed. The later versions would take about 10min for the temperature to get back up if in sport mode.
The thermostat is a two stage thermostat controlled electronically I think. I've sometimes wondered about shorting it out so its always in low temp mode, but that's to make more power, not to run cooler.
Eh no it isn't...2010's still have the n14. You are looking for an answer to irrelevant question. There is no need to lower the temp. It's just where the engineers, (that probably have a much better education in internal combustion engine emissions and efficiencies, than you do), designed it to be.
Eh no it isn't...2010's still have the n14.
You are looking for an answer to irrelevant question.
There is no need to lower the temp. It's just where the engineers, (that probably have a much better education in internal combustion engine emissions and efficiencies, than you do), designed it to be.
You are looking for an answer to irrelevant question.
There is no need to lower the temp. It's just where the engineers, (that probably have a much better education in internal combustion engine emissions and efficiencies, than you do), designed it to be.
You are wrong with regards to the engine (especially in Europe/EU). MINI fitted N14 and N18 engines in 2010 year cars. My previous Cooper S was an April 2010 build but had an N18 engine.
I love this mod !!!
I simply ran a toggle into the cabin below my Ultra-Gauge which displays Engine Temp in F (U-S-A!) and then ran that switch to my Low Speed Fan Relay's negative terminal so I can ground the relay. The toggle is just a ground trigger. I kick on the low speed fan around 190F or less and run all day at 170F. My R56 with K04 hybrid pulls like a freight train and oil consumption is no longer an issue. Woohoo! Best mod I've made and I've made a lot! Cost nothing. Car runs cool and doesn't lean out at 220F anymore. Matt @the_r_institute
Last edited by The_R_Institute; Feb 23, 2023 at 04:21 PM.
I simply ran a toggle into the cabin below my Ultra-Gauge which displays Engine Temp in F (U-S-A!) and then ran that switch to my Low Speed Fan Relay's negative terminal so I can ground the relay. The toggle is just a ground trigger. I kick on the low speed fan around 190F or less and run all day at 170F. My R56 with K04 hybrid pulls like a freight train and oil consumption is no longer an issue. Woohoo! Best mod I've made and I've made a lot! Cost nothing. Car runs cool and doesn't lean out at 220F no more. Matt @the_r_institute
Wow can I pay you to set something like this up for me? You on the west coast? My car runs warm during rush hour (which is inescapable) and it freaks me the F out. I'm going to try Water Wetter and look into that GP2 pan mentioned above in the meantime, but am afraid I need either a tune to run cooler or better yet just a straight up switch to turn the fans on myself.
Also, I have normal oil consumption now!!! Oh and no oil leaks!! I love the car now.
Next, i'm going to run a little E85 to clean up my combustion chamber.
I can sit in traffic all day cool as a cucumber.
Matt.
@the_r_institute


