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R56 Getting head decked - need thicker head gasket?

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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 05:35 PM
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MiniMeR50's Avatar
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Getting head decked - need thicker head gasket?

I'm going to get my head decked due to some warping. Do I need to go with the thicker head gasket when I replace it, or will the standard still work? I've read different opinions - one saying that any time you redeck you have to put a thicker gasket, the other saying that you only use a thicker gasket when you want to change the compression or fix moderate warpage.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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I would go thicker....while going thinner is a trick to up compression, it can cause issues...namely with timing chain slack...have heard of a couple cases on gen1 cars where the head and block were BOTH decked...and timing chain made noise...in that case an extra washer on the tensioner fixed the issue(as a spacer)....but why create an issue if you can avoid it...heck with the timing chain issues on gen2, I'd be extra careful...and match the gasket choice to about the OEM+the removed amount....
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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I'd go with the thicker JCW head gasket. It's 12mm thick as opposed to the standard 9mm gasket. That's about 0.012" thicker and after torquing is closer to 0.010". Unless the head is seriously warped they shouldn't need to take more than that off.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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Maybe have them CC the head before and after? Or have them measure the amount they cut the head, and increase the gasket thickness by that much.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigger2011
I'd go with the thicker JCW head gasket. It's 12mm thick as opposed to the standard 9mm gasket. That's about 0.012" thicker and after torquing is closer to 0.010". Unless the head is seriously warped they shouldn't need to take more than that off.
you mean 1.2 and 0.9 mm.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 06:14 AM
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Cristo is right its 1.2 and 0.9. Be extra careful with that head. I had mine warp, and I had the head decked with the thicker gasket. They also did a valve job. On first crank however a valve stuck, went through a piston, and I had to buy a new motor. Did you buy timing tools or do you need them? I rented them for a sweet price from http://www.specialtyautotoolrentals....roducts_id=171
 
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:27 AM
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Thanks guys - I'm going to see how much the shop needs to take off, then go from there. I don't believe much needs to be taken off, in which then I can go with a standard from what I understand. I'll post my results once it comes back.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 12:00 PM
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I've got 3 heads. I've done a lot of work to two. TAKE THE MINIMUM OFF !! There's a steel ball bearing staked into the head to block a passage during the manufacturing process after the oil passage is drill. To much off the deck surface will expose this steel shot and mess up sealing capabilities of the head. It'll create an imprint at that spot. It should also be cut with a CBN cutter for a smooth finish. Standard surfacing equipment won't seal if your running extra boost
 
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