Seeing the recent slickdeals post about cheap oil, and reading horror stories about incompetent mechanics overfilling or doing a crappy job has prompted me to start doing it myself.

I know there are tons of threads on this, the amount of conflicting opinions is a bit overwhelming to me. Here is what I have gathered...

5W30 oil or 0W40 oil are ok to use... there are others but I have seen these more than a few times.

is the oil I was looking to purchase, like I said the amount of fricken oil to choose from is overwhelming and I tend to overthink things.

As far as oil filter, I'm trying to figure out if I'm buying a specific size of filter, or is it a filter specifically made for the mini cooper engine. I remember getting my old cooper oil changed and the oil places complaining they didnt have the right filter etc

As far as changing the oil, draining it, replacing oil filter, etc... is there anything that I can do wrong that would yield catastrophic results if I did it wrong? I understand oil changes are important, but how exactly am I supposed to judge my own work? This is what worries me, I'm very good with hands on things and am confident that I can do this task, but I would want to be 100% sure I am doing it correct.

Any pointers are much appreciated... thanks in advance!

slick deals post for those who havent seen it, basically 12.00 for 5 quarts after rebate

 

There are just as many opinions on oil as there are options for oil. Mobil 1 is a fairly safe bet. There are specific oils called out in the mini owners manual if you're curious what mini recommends. I just use the mini brand oil straight from the dealer as it's not any more expensive than Mobil 1 or any other full synthetic oil.

The filter you're looking for is specific to the mini. IDK how easy it is to find at regular parts stores like Autozone. I would just grab one from the dealer or order one from ECS Tuning or one of the other forum sponsors.

As far as things to go wrong oil is pretty necessary to the health of your engine. Really the only thing you could screw up would be to break something and cause a leak. It's pretty hard to do on an oil change since it's pretty simple procedure. However, people accidentally double-stack o-rings on the oil filter housing. It's also possible to strip the drain plug threads in the oil pan. Just be careful and you'll be fine.

 

anything you can do wrong.. aside from the obvious (not putting the drain bolt back, etc.), it's fairly straightforward. drain oil, swap filters, drain bolt back on, and refill.

not to self promote, but here's my write up of it: http://r56hs.com/2013/11/23/oil-change/

i always use OEM filter, doesn't seem like I would save much $ to go aftermarket

 

You can get 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 0w-40 at Wal-Mart for under $25 and you can get OEM filters on Ebay or ECS Tuning for around $10 each. Your car should only take 4.5 quarts of oil.

 

For oil, I also recommend the MINI brand oil from the dealer. As another poster mentioned, it's comparable in price to other oils sold at traditional auto parts stores.

While you're there picking up the oil, you might as well buy the filter from them as well. On my last oil change, I didn't really have the time to drive all the way out to my local MINI dealership, so I tried to find it locally at a parts store. It can be found, but as far as the brand goes, I wasn't a fan.

If a dealership isn't within close proximity, also recommend ECS Tuning.

Other than that, the oil change is similar to any other. I think the first reply covered everything.

 

A list of recommended oils can be found on the MINI website Owner's Lounge. If you log in and look at Warranty, I believe there is a list of oils that MINI approves for use.

I have read that lots of people buy the MINI branded filter. I think the Mann-filter is a very good product as well, and that's what I use.

 

By the way, many of the vendors who advertise on here make it easy for you to find the right filter for your vehicle and can give you good counsel regarding your car, unlike Amazon...

 

I personally just buy my oil and filter from the dealership. Runs me about 70 bucks for all of it. You could probably run a different oil (mobile 1) without any issues but I've heard that the oem filter is the only one you should use as the after market ones tend to fall apart between changes.

 

I was going to use amazon if I decided on specific oil... would of been 10.00 ish after a rebate.. that's pretty nice!

Thanks for all the replies... I think I will go OEM for the filter.

 

I have not experienced the oil filter falling apart with a Mann-Filter. I don't know with certainty, but I believe the German made Mann-Filters are likely to be re-badged as MINI for BMW. The other likely OEM is Mahle.

Of course, YMMV.

 

I have seen a lot of folks using the MANN filter as well... now I'm just trying to find the best source.

 

Oil choices have been beaten to death...

Be careful of the oil filter cap - I have read more than one post about the cap guts falling apart and ending up either in the engine (bad, bad, bad!) or more often in the hand of the person changing the filter. Have a spare cap on hand so that you aren't stuck with a dead car until parts can be aquired.

Be aware that the coolant resevoir can leak from the bottom fitting, or can crack and fail due to the stresses placed on it to get access to the filter housing. I'd consider keeping a resevoir on hand as well - though I haven't gone that route myself yet...

Otherwise - normal precautions please!
Good luck!
E

 

The filter cap is composed of the outer shell, filter, and O-ring.. right? Im not sure if there is more, haven't looked too hard into it yet. But I like the idea of having extras on hand and will do that... thanks for the feedback.

 

There is a clip mechanism at the top of the housing that holds the filter in place while you remove and install the filter - to hold the filter in the housing while you feed the housing out/into the bay, in the installation orientation.

I gather that clip assembly falls apart...
E

 

got a 27mm socket? that's what you need to get the filter can off and back on


OE filter kit includes the filter, the o-ring, and the crush washer for the bung seal


every non-OE filter I've seen had the filter and the o-ring but no seal


the seal for the GEN2 MINI is kinda unique - it is a rolled hollow copper thing - not intended to be reused but many do ... not something I've seen at my local autopart store





I order the GEN2 filters a half dozen at a time - cuts down the cost by combining shipping.


since 2003 I used Mobile 1 'Euro formula' and OE filters with never a problem - for the folks I do oil who bring me there cars, I use what ever filter and oil they bring . . .

 

That copper seal looking thing is for the drain pan or part of the oil filter? I know I need to get under there one day and look around but I still need to get some ramps.

 

The copper seal, crush is part of the drain plug which is allen head. Comes with the Genuine MINI filter kit and linked with the Mann filters , as they don't come with them. Oil change kits also linked.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...il-filter.html



thanks

 

It's an easy task. Takes about a 1/2 hour or so once you've done it a time or two.

You don't really need ramps, though they are nice. Just jack the car up enough from the front driver side point enough to slide a catch pan under and get to the oil pan drain plug. It's on the passenger side, so you should get all of the oil out.

I just use the Mini OEM oil. I buy it a case at a time rom the dealer, and get a couple filters with it. I also keep an air filter and a cabin air filter on hand.

Worse thing you can do?? "Gorilla Torque" the drain plug when you put it back in and strip out the oil pan threads. You just need enough torque to compress the copper gasket properly.

Take your time, the first time, and put together a "kit" for specific tools needed for the job. A nice battery powered, LED, lamp is also a plus. It's always better if you can see exactly what you're doing. Halogens are nice, and cheap, but they get hot!!

 

I use Castrol 5W-30 full synthetic, the BMW recommended oil and the OEM filter kit. The hardest part about the oil change is moving the coolant reservoir and hoses out of the way to remove and install the filter housing. Otherwise, it's extremely easy. You'll need a 27mm 6 point socket, reasonably long extension, and an 8mm hex socket or wrench. It's pretty much impossible to do wrong. The drain plug uses a copper crush washer so it's obvious when it's tight enough. The same goes for the filter housing: it bottoms out distinctly so you don't even need to bother with a torque wrench.