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R56 Oil Filter Housing ("cooler") Leak - Question

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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 06:51 AM
  #1  
BuffaloJohn's Avatar
BuffaloJohn
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Oil Filter Housing ("cooler") Leak - Question

So, I'm replacing my brakes (2nd time since ownership) and Mini Dealership here locally while in for a water pump replacement said I needed an oil cooler replacement because it was leaking a small bit and obviously could be issues if left alone. Cause -> gasket break-down.

I've poked around a LOT on this issue and when at Valvoline this past trip for oil change (with my own socket + filter from BMW, because they don't carry either) - I asked them to look at the oil filter housing and confirm this. I like independent confirmation - not matter if its a dealer or not.

Confirmed.

So - I've spent a bit of time under the hood before, and the "estimated" labor for the change is 5h from Mini @ $125 or so (an hour) + parts seems excessive - the 5 hr estimate ->no, but the $600 labor + $600 materials = $1200 (Mini Dealership Estimate)->yes. I get this after seeing the location of the oil housing and what's involved - but being a cheap-bast%#$ I want to think the problem is ->just<- the gasket. Why not just take the thing OFF, and replace the gasket?

Pelican parts = $25
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...ENGoil_pg1.htm#

The housing + head filter holder + gasket = $225 USD from Pelican vs. the $25 for just the gasket.

So, my estimate -> $25 gasket (BYOG - G = Gasket) + 4hr labor at a local garage = $425. That's a heck of a lot less than $1200.

Can someone counter my thoughts above? I'm trying to make sure I'm not getting overcharged for unnecessariy replacement parts. BTW, I've ordered the gasket already. I don't mind getting burned for $25 w/o getting input for now.


Thanks.
 

Last edited by BuffaloJohn; Apr 24, 2014 at 06:54 AM. Reason: Incomplete thoughts.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 08:05 AM
  #2  
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jcauseyfd
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From: Graham, NC
Any idea why the dealership wants to replace the entire housing and not just the gasket? Also, you may want to confirm that the dealership identified the gasket between the oil filter housing and the engine block as the source of the leak. Since they refer to the "cooler" (which my dealership calls the "heat exchanger", they may be talking about the gasket between that and the oil filter housing, in which case they may want to replace the cooler itself for some reason (mine was replace under warranty).

Assuming the gasket really is all that is needed, then yes - going to an independent will be cheaper than getting the dealership to do it.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 01:31 PM
  #3  
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mbwicz
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From: Buffalo area, NY
Depending on what else has been done to maintain your car to date, you may want to replace more than just the gasket set. There is quite a bit of work to get to these parts, so there is potential cost savings if you have not done the following:

Turbo oil line replacement (about $90 for parts, IIRC)
Turbo oil drain line replacement ($40?)
Heat exchanger to oil filter housing gasket ($20)

It is also a good time to replace the downpipe if you were thinking of an upgrade there, since the DP has to be removed for the repair.

Also, if your car is old enough to be developing the leak, it is probably going to be difficult to remove the exhaust clamp. A new one is about $25.

The heat exchanger is bolted to the oil filter housing, which is bolted to the block. Both of these joints use the same gasket technology, which means if you have a leak in one that the other may leak in the future.

If you are comfortable doing brakes, this job is not difficult. The worst part is getting the heat shields off. I had about 5 hours in the job, and about $200 in parts. Also plan on an oil change and drain/refill of coolant.

Tell us a little more about your car, it is a good place to discuss things....

Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 05:17 PM
  #4  
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ra2fanatic
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From: SoCal
^Very good things you'll want to do as Mike said. I've replaced all those when I upgraded my turbo even though I've never had any issues with any of the lines or gaskets, but at 67k miles, I figure it was bound to fail so might as well knock it out so I don't have to do it again in the future!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 05:42 PM
  #5  
BuffaloJohn's Avatar
BuffaloJohn
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Well, its a non-S ... I like to drive my car, not work on it despite being a bit of a technology gear head, so I need some guidance to avoid $$$. I DO want to own this car to at least 120K, so any advice for to-do list for my local garage would be useful. I DO trust my local folks.


R56 - Cap to Gasket.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...ENGoil_pg1.htm


What I'm gleaming from this is I should indeed do $225. But I can't get my head wrapped around what beyond that closer to the engine I need to replace.


Thanks guys. You rock!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 06:06 PM
  #6  
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mbwicz
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From: Buffalo area, NY
Sorry, I missed the part that it was a non-S. Most of what I said is not appropriate (no turbo oil lines, no heat exchanger). From what I have read, the downpipe and exhaust manifold is one piece, and difficult to remove.

As long as the leak is not extreme, take the parts to your chosen mechanic and let them take a good look at it. If they need to order something else, then you have time before they tear into it.

I would think that just the gasket would be a starting point. If the housing was cracked or had a leak directly in it, then the dealership would have probably made a bigger deal about it.

Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 07:30 PM
  #7  
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sgscomps
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There is a profile gasket between the oil filter housing and the block and another between the heat exchanger and the oil filter housing. The one probably leaking is between the housing and the engine. The dealer has probably seen this enough to know the oil filter housing can warp and replacing just the gasket will not fix the problem. Since oil and antifreeze both go thru the housing and heat exchanger the oil needs to be changed to remove any antifreeze that leaks into the engine. The dealer also has the tools required to put the front of the car into service mode to make this job easier than a local repair shop that probably doesn't work on enough MINI's to spend the money for the tools to make it easier. The dealers work on these cars everyday and know what to look for and how to do the repairs. I understand your frustration on cost but somethings are better left to the dealer and you will have a warranty from your dealer, try getting that from your local shop.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 06:28 PM
  #8  
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rwwilsonjr
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From: Hurricane Alley
This is a little too long but FWIW I wanted to add my experience. A few years ago as the factory warranty expired on my '08 MCS, the Service Manager at the local Mini dealership tried to get me to purchase an extended warranty. I didn't take his advise and now realize that was an expensive mistake.

If you go by the posts on NAM, the 2nd generation Mini seems to have at least three common cooling system components which are prone to failure after a few years of service...usually out of warranty: the thermostat housing, the water pump and the oil filter housing gasket. Starting with the thermostat housing my MCS has now had all three of these repairs. Two of them today (water pump & oil filter housing gasket)!

When these components fail you're faced with doing it yourself or paying someone else to do it. The problem is that each of these repair jobs is difficult even for an experienced mechanic/DIY'er. So unfortunately for most of us there is really only one option. And beyond the expense that option is not without stress.

This week the weather turned cold but no hot air from heater. Checked coolant and found expansion almost empty. Added coolant and soon had hot air blowing again. I'm slow so it took me a day to notice the coolant dripping on the driveway. My first thought was Oh no...the t'stat housing's leaking again! But under the engine the leak was toward the front of the engine (the t'stat leak was on the back). I found coolant leaking down from the engine block and onto exhaust pipe where it comes down from the manifold...below turbo. I could not see the source but after reading the post on NAM I figured it was likely the Oil Filter Housing (gasket).

Took car to the dealership with my analysis of problem. They took the car into the shop and came back with their findings: 1) Thermostat housing possibly leaking...no sign of active leak but residue on engine, etc. 2) Water pump leaking. No mention of the Oil Filter housing! After discussing the fact that the t'stat housing had been replaced recently and there was no active leak we discounted it as source. It was decided to replace the water pump.

Couple of hours later the SA came to me and said that upon finishing the WP replacement and pressurizing the cooling system...you can probably guess what happened. The Oil Filter housing started gushing coolant! The leaking gasket blown out.

I feel sure my analysis of the problem was correct (i.e., the leak was coming from the oil filter housing) and I don't know for sure if the water pump was actually leaking although I have my doubts. At any rate I'm looking at the cost of the new water pump + oil filter housing. Mucho Dinero! Work should be finished tomorrow.

Moral...bite the bullet and buy the Extended Warranty!
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 07:50 PM
  #9  
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jcauseyfd
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Graham, NC
That sounds similar to my experience. Once I got my new water pump installed, it caused the thermostat to start leaking. It probably had a slow leak before, but the improved pressure took its toll.

Alas, typical extended warranties would not have helped me.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2014 | 05:25 AM
  #10  
ROCNYMini's Avatar
ROCNYMini
1st Gear
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From: West NY
Mike has this pretty much nailed. As a first timer into this engine, I did the water pump, oil filter to block gasket and the the turbo lines myself. Plan on a weekend to do each, if done separately. Some areas are a PIA, but it is all a one man job. btw, I measured the warp of the oil filter housing, and it was about 2 to 3 thou, and I reused it; It's been fine. Mine was a water leak, but the same area also seals oil (on a S anyway). Mine had a clear indication of a seal fracture. I advise to pull the bumper forward into service mode.
 
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